Hey guys.

I experienced this for the first time yesterday to.
The print had finished and as I moved the hot end around in DWC I kept getting the "print completed" message with the time taken etc.
I'll have to check my web interface version number later.

Ian

Hey buddy.

Mines always done this, but not all the time. On some probes it springs back up and stays there, on some occasions it pings back down again after a probe and retracts back again.

I'm using a clone BLTouch, but it's been the same for me from 1.18 firmware.

Ian Contessa

Hey.

Most Raspberry Pi's, according to the online information, need a good 1.5 to 2 amps power supply to run without issues.
So I'd look to give it a good power source external to the Duet.

Ian

Subscribed as I see the same quirk with mesh bed levelling.
I drop the bed 40mm and then initiate the mesh levelling, which sees it get to the first point without clipping the bed.

Ian

Hey buddy.

I'm not near my Hypercube to checks it's configuration file, but unless it's a typo on the forum I've seen something which shouldn't be there.

In this line;

G31 P50 X63 Y-65 Z1.8

I'm sure the a P parameter is in the wrong place and with a too higher value.
Looking at the advice in the wiki;

"SOFTWARE SETUP

1. In your software config.g file input the following G-Code commands to allow the setup to work:

M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ;

M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F100 T2000

G31 X0 Y0 Z0 P25"

Also that P parameter sets the trigger threshold as it's called, to be a little more sensitive as I think there was talk of the BLTouch giving a very fast signal when it's been activated that the Duet can miss.
The advice from memory was to set lower than 25 so the Duet had a chance to read the BLTouch probe signal when it triggered.

"In both cases
Select probe type 5 (the P parameter in your M558 command), Set the G31 P parameter to a low value, because the BLTouch produces only a short output pulse, which may be filtered out if you use a higher threshold."

So if I'm remembering right, you need to move the P parameter to the end of that line of code and also lower it's values to below 25.

This logic falls in with your issue of having different trigger heights perhaps, possible because the P parameter is too high and in the wrong place.

Quoted text taken from here;

https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe

Ian

Hey buddy.

Welcome to the Duet family, I'm a new user to the the board myself but mine is working great with minimal fuss.

With the BLTouch I would say it depends on what version you buy, I have a clone Classic touch for example and it didn't have the logic trace to cut. So I had to use resistors and even then make up my own resistance value to see 3.3 volts.

If however you purchase a genuine BLTouch Smart, their latest version, then all it needs is the thin copper trace linking two pads together cutting away with a sharp knife. Then it's good to go with the 3.3 volt logic the Duet needs.

Here are the PDF manuals for the various BLTouch probes which will then show you what changes to make for each version;

https://www.antclabs.com/manual

Ian

@DADIY:

@coolice:

@Zesty_Lykle:

Yeah saw the photos of the FB group. Wow man!

Thanks for the compliment buddy, it's appreciated. Yeah they've gone to Facebook and here so far.

Ian

Quick - post them to the 3dprinting sub reddit too.

Nice printer BTW.

HeyBuddy.

Lol, I'll Google that forum and join up

Thanks for the compliment on the build.

Ian

@Zesty_Lykle:

Yeah saw the photos of the FB group. Wow man!

Thanks for the compliment buddy, it's appreciated. Yeah they've gone to Facebook and here so far.

Ian

@Martin_S:

Nicely done, thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the compliment buddy and you're welcome. I'm quite proud of how it's turned out so posted the photos almost everywhere

Ian

@T3P3Tony:

Wow! LEDs look awesome the way you have them setup in the door.

There are enough pins on the expansion header to control the RGB LEDs. Check out this page for the pins:
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_servos_and_controlling_unused_I/O_pins

Then you can use M42 to switch the 3 pins for R, G and B :
https://duet3d.com/wiki/G-code#M42:_Switch_I.2FO_pin

Depending on your led setup (you may already have a driving circuit) you will need suitable FETs to drive the LEDs.

Hey Buddy.

Thanks for the compliment on the build, it's appreciated.
Yeah they've come out really nice, I've used the tick before to make edge lit signs so just applied the same idea to the door and then printed the LED strip holder to place the LED's on the bottom lip of the door. The wire going to them shouldn't get in the way either.

Ah brilliant, thank you. At present I'm just powering the LED's from one of my RC heli LiPo's, they are 24 volt ones so will be easy to integrate in the 24 volt system.
I will go and take a look now to see how to wire the LED's up to the spare heater pins, then I can make a simple board with 3x fets to to drive the LED load.

Ian