Hey guys.
I experienced this for the first time yesterday to.
The print had finished and as I moved the hot end around in DWC I kept getting the "print completed" message with the time taken etc.
I'll have to check my web interface version number later.
Ian
Hey buddy.
Mines always done this, but not all the time. On some probes it springs back up and stays there, on some occasions it pings back down again after a probe and retracts back again.
I'm using a clone BLTouch, but it's been the same for me from 1.18 firmware.
Ian Contessa
Hey.
Most Raspberry Pi's, according to the online information, need a good 1.5 to 2 amps power supply to run without issues.
So I'd look to give it a good power source external to the Duet.
Ian
Subscribed as I see the same quirk with mesh bed levelling.
I drop the bed 40mm and then initiate the mesh levelling, which sees it get to the first point without clipping the bed.
Ian
Hey buddy.
I'm not near my Hypercube to checks it's configuration file, but unless it's a typo on the forum I've seen something which shouldn't be there.
In this line;
G31 P50 X63 Y-65 Z1.8
I'm sure the a P parameter is in the wrong place and with a too higher value.
Looking at the advice in the wiki;
"SOFTWARE SETUP
1. In your software config.g file input the following G-Code commands to allow the setup to work:
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1Â ;
M558 P5 X0 Y0 Z1 H5 F100 T2000
G31 X0 Y0 Z0 P25"
Also that P parameter sets the trigger threshold as it's called, to be a little more sensitive as I think there was talk of the BLTouch giving a very fast signal when it's been activated that the Duet can miss.
The advice from memory was to set lower than 25 so the Duet had a chance to read the BLTouch probe signal when it triggered.
"In both cases
Select probe type 5 (the P parameter in your M558 command), Set the G31 P parameter to a low value, because the BLTouch produces only a short output pulse, which may be filtered out if you use a higher threshold."
So if I'm remembering right, you need to move the P parameter to the end of that line of code and also lower it's values to below 25.
This logic falls in with your issue of having different trigger heights perhaps, possible because the P parameter is too high and in the wrong place.
Quoted text taken from here;
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe
Ian
Hey buddy.
Welcome to the Duet family, I'm a new user to the the board myself but mine is working great with minimal fuss.
With the BLTouch I would say it depends on what version you buy, I have a clone Classic touch for example and it didn't have the logic trace to cut. So I had to use resistors and even then make up my own resistance value to see 3.3 volts.
If however you purchase a genuine BLTouch Smart, their latest version, then all it needs is the thin copper trace linking two pads together cutting away with a sharp knife. Then it's good to go with the 3.3 volt logic the Duet needs.
Here are the PDF manuals for the various BLTouch probes which will then show you what changes to make for each version;
https://www.antclabs.com/manual
Ian
Yeah saw the photos of the FB group. Wow man!
Thanks for the compliment buddy, it's appreciated. Yeah they've gone to Facebook and here so far.
Ian
Quick - post them to the 3dprinting sub reddit too.
Nice printer BTW.
HeyBuddy.
Lol, I'll Google that forum and join up 
Thanks for the compliment on the build.
Ian
Yeah saw the photos of the FB group. Wow man!
Thanks for the compliment buddy, it's appreciated. Yeah they've gone to Facebook and here so far.
Ian
Nicely done, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the compliment buddy and you're welcome. I'm quite proud of how it's turned out so posted the photos almost everywhere
Ian
Wow! LEDs look awesome the way you have them setup in the door.
There are enough pins on the expansion header to control the RGB LEDs. Check out this page for the pins:
https://duet3d.com/wiki/Using_servos_and_controlling_unused_I/O_pinsThen you can use M42 to switch the 3 pins for R, G and B :
https://duet3d.com/wiki/G-code#M42:_Switch_I.2FO_pinDepending on your led setup (you may already have a driving circuit) you will need suitable FETs to drive the LEDs.
Hey Buddy.
Thanks for the compliment on the build, it's appreciated.
Yeah they've come out really nice, I've used the tick before to make edge lit signs so just applied the same idea to the door and then printed the LED strip holder to place the LED's on the bottom lip of the door. The wire going to them shouldn't get in the way either.
Ah brilliant, thank you. At present I'm just powering the LED's from one of my RC heli LiPo's, they are 24 volt ones so will be easy to integrate in the 24 volt system.
I will go and take a look now to see how to wire the LED's up to the spare heater pins, then I can make a simple board with 3x fets to to drive the LED load.
Ian
Evening All.
Thought you might be interested in seeing what my HEVO is looking like currently.
It's not 100% finished yet and I'm hoping that the Duet may allow me to do something with the RGB led's which would be cool, such as a status display with the different colours.
As I have a laser cutter it makes things easier to cut acrylic panels accurately and as this HEVO is so nice compared to my old CTC, I knew this was the printer to add panels to.
So on the rear, sides and maybe the bottom if I do it, I have dark tinted 5mm acrylic.
I love this dark tinted look, as it allows you to barely see inside and once the internal lighting is done, the effect will be even better.
For the front I wanted to maintain a visual to the build platform, but at the same time do something a little different than just have a plain see through door.
So I etched the logo and text into the 5mm clear and edge lit it with a 30 cm strip of 24 volt RGB led's. The etching grabs the light as it passes through the acrylic giving a nice effect, also the laser cut polished edges glow nicely to.
The front outer bezel panel I did consider wrapping with carbon vinyl film, but instead roughed it up with wet and dry paper to make it looked frosted. Thus looks to have worked out nice I think, but I may change it.
Still got some things left to do, design a door knob, maybe add some magnets to keep the door closed to, hence the addition holes on the left side if I choose to use them.
Then its onto some final additions to the electronics with wiring in an XYGAX Smart Switch, a Pi Zero W & camera and it's done.
Prints nicely so far to so I'm pleased.
As I make more changes I'll post them up
Ian Contessa
PS - I just added a wiki page on adding a camera here https://duet3d.com/wiki/How_to_include_a_web_camera_image_in_Duet_Web_Control.
Brilliant thanks David. I'll give your instructions a go with my current wifi camera and let you know.
As even though it's not the same make, it looks almost identical, so I'm hoping the same steps may work.
Ian
I've got this thing (https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B017OWRDVU/) working quite well with my Web Control - it has the needed jpeg output and whatnot. The big downside - while you can adjust the settings for it (weirdly, DHCP is not enabled by default), it can only be done in IE with via an ActiveX plugin. It's also running from my 12V PSU, so no extra plugs needed.
Evening mate.
Ah brilliant, thanks for your reply.
This is good to know, as I had looked at this style of camera as it has an ethernet connection.
If my planned Pi ZeroW doesn't play ball I may grab one of these.
Ian
I ordered a Sance I21AG camera on the basis of a recommendation on this forum, but I haven't got round to trying it yet.
Hey David.
Ah that's interesting, I have a camera very similar in the office already, but to access it I need to login and use the dedicated app on my phone or pc.
While I could find out the IP address ok and the port, inputting that into the Web control parameters didn't allow me to access the camera. Also I couldn't see the ability to share the feed via IP only.
So I'm assuming it wasn't so useful. May have to have another look just to satisfy curiosity now.
Please do keep me posted if you get yours running.
Ian
Have a look at https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=2643#p24602 any Android phone should do if you have a surplus on e hanging around
Morning Mate.
Thank you, yes I did have a go with your idea using my Note 4 and it did work. But as I don't have a half decent old Android device that's small enough it's not ideal so I was looking for another option that's smaller really.
I had a couple of old Raspberry Pi’s and cameras in my junk drawer, they work well.
I used this link for the firmware setup
Morning Mate.
Ah good call, I think I had seen using a Pi and camera but wanted to explore if there was another way around it. Will give the article a good read and give it a go.
I've ordered a ZeroW last night to try it and have a Pi camera here from my Octoprint install on the other printer which seemed to suit a Logitech camera better, so the Pi camera is sat on the shelf ready to try.
Thanks all.
Ian
Evening All.
I thought I'd ask what everyone is using for a camera to stream the live video through to the Duet web control?
I've had a look and can't seem to find a nice one, I do have a Wifi camera in my workshop but it uses a dedicated app to access and so I've not been able to get this to work within the web control nicely. Ideally I'd just like to find a half decent camera that streams via a URL on my own network and away I go.
My old printer uses Octoprint so it was easy to conenct a USB camera and away you go.
Thanks.
Ian
Very interesting.
Why a mosfet as the main power input and not an SSR?
Hey Buddy.
Thank you. Yes it is a great little product. This unit was spawned from another product the designer makes for me.
I posed the question regarding the MosFET compared to SSR to the designer and this is what he replied with;
"Mosfet is DC SSR is used for AC. So if you have a 110/220V bed and run it from line voltage, the SSR is the correct option and if low voltage then Mosfet is the best option."
Here is the instruction sheet if you would like to take a look; www.coolice.co.uk/Smartswitch.pdf
Ian
Hey guys.
As another option worthy of a mention in a safety orientated topic, is the XYGAX Smart Switch;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192194222248
This auction has ended, but it will explain the features quickly until I have a page setup on my web site.
With temperature probes available for build chamber, hot end monitoring and bed temps, with a gas sensor as well, added safety is assured.
The seperate MosFET control for the bed is handy, the Duet is very capable I know, but it's good to have it.
Ian
And coolice, my BLTouch is brand new, I inspected it, there is no dirt or whatsoever in it, it CAN move freely, just doesnt.
Ah cool. Well as I mentioned and with the link posted above, it might be worth checking the grub screw height/set point.
I'm sure mine wasn't set correctly so the magnetic field wasn't driving the pin correctly.
Ian
Hey guys.
Just an idea, but have you taken the grub screw out the back and checked/cleaned the pin?
I didn't have this issue with mine, but had to check and reset the bltouch this way as I was convinced it wasn't retracting quite far enough to stay retracted at times.
So far so good since I took it apart, but mine is a clone so probably not made the best.
It could be there is some debris in there maybe stopping the pin working smoothly, or the heat shrinked section at the back is catching. As it relies on a magnetic field to move the touch pin in and out, any increased friction won't help it work smoothly. But also from what I'd read, the rear portion needs to be within the right band for the magnetic field to work properly at extending and retracting the pin.
Ian