@jay_s_uk said in Duet 2 Wifi Random Resets:

@mrawesome987 those no name 128mb ones that probably came with a BTT are only good for one thing ... throwing in the bin.
They ALWAYS cause trouble on the LPC/STM port of RRF

Good news! The printer completed a print last night, it was about a 5-6 hour print. This is with the no name 128mb card, but I'll swap it out for the new one when it gets here.

On the card I had in the Duet prior, I tried the same exact print (same gcode) 3 or 4 times, and it failed within 2 hours every time.

I'll continue to test and update.

@fcwilt @fcwilt I was testing a ton of different stuff and I ended up commenting those out.

I just found the problem...

;Fan
M950 F0 C"fan0" ;Create Fan 0
M106 P0 S0
M950 F1 C"fan1" ;Create Fan 1
M106 P1 S1 

The "Create Fan 0" and the "Create Fan 1" was not commented. I have no idea how this happened, because I certainly didn't change it after doing the firmware update.

Well I feel like I wasted your time, but thanks for the help!

I got the new SD card yesterday and formatted it and copied my current file structure to it. Printed a bracket for my new printer build and it worked great. It was a fairly small print, only 3-4 hours, but it printed with no issues.

I guess this is resolved, unless it magically reappears later! Thanks for the help.

@jumpedwithbothfeet Just wanted to make sure both steppers are always synced. Is that a problem? It made sense when I designed it, is it overkill?

@phaedrux Thanks for your help! Sorry for the late reply, got distracted with other stuff.

• My fan does blow on the hotend a little, but I don't have a picture of it right now.

• I did make a change to the M308 line as you recommended, and it seemed to help.

• I did get it to tune successfully if I tune it as a heater instead of tool.

I still don't think my problem is entirely resolved though. I preheated it to around 210, and it got to temperature, but then it dropped to 189 instantly and resulted in a heater fault. I am thinking that there may be something wrong with the thermistor (it's built into the heating cartridge on the E3D Revo). Since then, however, it's seemed to work ok.

I got a E3D Revo kit for my Hemera a few months ago, and I am just not getting around to correctly configuring it.

I have it installed an wired up, but I am having trouble getting it to tune properly. I have attempted a few times running M303 T0 S205 (with various temps for the S value), and it has either failed, or gotten stuck and just sat at tuning for well over an hour.

Error messages:

• Warning: heater behaviour was not consistent during tuning
• Warning: Auto tune of heater 1 failed due to bad curve fit (R=10.223, 1/C=0.0050:0.0263, D=2.2)

I am running "RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.3 (2021-06-15)".

Not sure what to try next. I would appreciate any advice!

Thanks!

Configuration:

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3.3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.4 on Sat Oct 09 2021 23:56:58 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)

; General preferences
M575 P1 S1 B57600                              ; enable support for PanelDue
G90                                            ; send absolute coordinates...
M83                                            ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"500x500"                                ; set printer name
M669 K1                                        ; select CoreXY mode

; Network
M552 S1                                        ; enable network
M586 P0 S1                                     ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                                     ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0                                     ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1                                     ; physical drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0                                     ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1                                     ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P4 S1                                     ; physical drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E4                               ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                        ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z1259.84 E420.50             ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z100.00 E2000.00            ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X8000.00 Y8000.00 Z120.00 E5000.00        ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z400.00 E5000.00            ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1700 Y1700 Z2000 E1330 I30               ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                        ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                               ; set axis minima
M208 X490 Y490 Z875 S0                         ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"xstop"                            ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop"                            ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop
M574 Z1 S2                                     ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z
M591 D0 P1 C"e1stop" S1                        ; configure filament endstop for e1 extruder on low end

; Z-Probe / Compensation
M950 S0 C"exp.heater3"                         ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000            ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y-35.56 Z2.471                     ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X25:475 Y25:450 S25                       ; define mesh grid
M376 H5

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0                          ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B1 S1.00                               ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138  ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e1temp
M950 H1 C"e1heat" T1                           ; create nozzle heater output on e1heat and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S300                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500                           ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S0 H-1                                 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

; Tools
M563 P0 S"Extruder 1" D0 H1 F0                 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                                   ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
M572 D0 S0.015                                ;set pressure advance

; Custom settings are not defined
M501

Benchy for reference:

@fcwilt said in Help with new custom printer - Prints have ringing around them:

@mrawesome987 said in Help with new custom printer - Prints have ringing around them:

@jumpedwithbothfeet Just wanted to make sure both steppers are always synced. Is that a problem? It made sense when I designed it, is it overkill?

Coupling them with a belt like that is generally fine but I don't like to do it above a flexible coupler as it puts sideways forces on them they may not be designed to handle.

Have you tried it without the belt?

---

As to lead screws there can be a large difference between cheap Chinese ones and ones from other sources.

Example Lead Screw Specs

Notice in the chart from the link above they specify things like the accuracy of movement per turn.

Also this company has "good, better, best" offerings. - so to speak.

Frederick

Yes, one of my images above shows the difference with and without the belt tensioned. It was definitely a huge part of the problem, but the issue is still not 100% cured, which I attribute to the massively bent lead screws. I have ordered some solid couplers and am also getting replacement lead screws from the place I originally ordered them from. I am hopeful that they will be better, but if not, I'll order some from elsewhere. Thanks!

On my most recent XYZ cubes, I am still fighting the same quality issues, ignoring the Z wobble issue for now (since that's to blame on the lead screws). This is one of the most recent cubes:

I cant seem to get rid of the bad corners. I have tried both Pressure Advance (.025 up to .1), more retraction (currently at 2.5mm @ 3000mm/m), rotating the print on the bed (no real change), slower print (no change), etc.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Here's my most recent config:

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3.3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.3.4 on Sat Oct 09 2021 23:56:58 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)

; General preferences
M575 P1 S1 B57600                              ; enable support for PanelDue
G90                                            ; send absolute coordinates...
M83                                            ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"500x500"                                ; set printer name
M669 K1                                        ; select CoreXY mode

; Network
M552 S1                                        ; enable network
M586 P0 S1                                     ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                                     ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0                                     ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S0                                     ; physical drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S0                                     ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1                                     ; physical drive 2 goes backwards
M569 P4 S1                                     ; physical drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E4                               ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                        ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z1259.84 E420.50             ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z100.00 E2000.00            ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X8000.00 Y8000.00 Z120.00 E3500.00        ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z400.00 E5000.00            ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1800 Y1800 Z2000 E1330 I30               ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                        ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                               ; set axis minima
M208 X490 Y490 Z875 S0                         ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"xstop"                            ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop"                            ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop
M574 Z1 S2                                     ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z
M591 D0 P1 C"e1stop" S1                        ; configure filament endstop for e1 extruder on low end

; Z-Probe / Compensation
M950 S0 C"exp.heater3"                         ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000            ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y-35.56 Z2.650                        ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X25:475 Y25:450 S25                       ; define mesh grid
M376 H5

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0                          ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B1 S1.00                               ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138  ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e1temp
M950 H1 C"e1heat" T1                           ; create nozzle heater output on e1heat and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S280                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500                           ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S0 H-1                                 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

; Tools
M563 P0 S"Extruder 1" D0 H1 F0                 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                                   ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
M572 D0 S0.025                                ;set pressure advance

; Custom settings are not defined
M501

@mrehorstdmd I agree with this I think.

My original thinking with the sync belt and two motors was that it would be beneficial in two ways:

• More torque to move the bed frame
• Sync the two lead screws so that they can't skip steps (or at least can't skip steps individually)
• Remove the possibility of turning one side without the other accidentally

The more I think about it, the more I am interested in moving to a single motor setup, with a much smaller pulley on the motor. Mostly for the reasons below:

• Probably more consistent that two motors?
• Remove the weight from directly on top of the motors, as it is now. Is this a huge issue? I'm not sure. Does anyone know what kind of force a Nema 23 can withstand long-term directly on the shaft?

As for the bent lead screw issue, I have reached out to the supplier I purchased them from a few months ago, and they seem to be willing to replace them. If that doesn't work out, I'll purchase new ones from a different, more reliable source.

While I wait for the issue above to resolve, I have been working to try to tune it to print decently. This has been causing some headache, but that's expected.

I have been testing by printing an XYZ 20mm cube, and the extrusion seems to be inconsistent. Most obviously is the corners.

The block on the left had PA set to .025, and the block on the right had PA set to .075. This produced a noticeable improvement, but does this sound like too much? I'm using a Hemera with Volcano, at .8mm nozzle.

Of course, I forgot to get the config.g and I'm at work now. I'll try to upload that later this afternoon.

Thanks for your help guys.

@jumpedwithbothfeet said in Help with new custom printer - Prints have ringing around them:

@mrawesome987 glad you found the problem, it is looking a lot better do the lead screws still appear bent as they move on the machine? or has that gone now? as @oliof has suggested a bed PID tune is next it`s easy and most importantly free to do!

The lead screws are definitely still looking bent. I'd like to replace them.

I am looking at the Misumi lead screws, but I'm having a hard time speccing what I need. The lead on my current screws is 2.54 mm, which is probably a bit low, right? They offer carbon steel and stainless. Any advantage to carbon steel?

Edit: I did PID tune the bed when I first configured it, although I PID tuned it for 60C, and I've been running it at 90C. Is that an issue?

@jumpedwithbothfeet said in Help with new custom printer - Prints have ringing around them:

I noticed your using a flex coupling on at least one of your z stepper motors, good possibility that z belt of yours might be pulling the leadscrew out of alignment, worth checking with a print and the belt removed?

Just printed the same file but removed the Z sync belt. Results are MUCH better! Here's a before and after in the same lighting:

I'd say the issue is almost completely resolved, however, I think I am going to make a few adjustments to my design for permanent use.

• Replace the lead screws with a better quality screw. Researching this now to find the best cost effective option. I looked at ball screws, but I don't think I can fit 1m ball screws in the budget right now. I am currently looking at Misumi screws. Are these of good quality for 3d printing?
• Replace the flexible shaft couplings with solid couplings.
• Design some sort of bearing mount for the top of the shaft that will allow the shaft to move slightly incase things aren't perfectly lined up.

Does anyone have any other suggestions or advice? Thanks again for all your help.

@martin7404 said in Help with new custom printer - Prints have ringing around them:

I think your Z linear rods are not suitable for this or may get out of aligment easy. I would use full cylindrival bushings and roind rods

I had not thought of this. Could you explain your thinking? The bed frame feels tight, and does not have any noticeable play in the X and Y axis. Thanks!

@jumpedwithbothfeet said in Help with new custom printer - Prints have ringing around them:

@mrawesome987 I noticed your using a flex coupling on at least one of your z stepper motors, good possibility that z belt of yours might be pulling the leadscrew out of alignment, worth checking with a print and the belt removed?

This is a good idea... I have not tried this, so I will do that! Thanks!