@Electriceye looking at your picture the input wires on the SSR from the duet are reversed you may want to try reversing the polarity,

@cncmodeller I have the CL-60 it is very easy to use, literally press play I also have the wash and cure station which also works well. some notes to consider however -

Pro`s -
easy to print
easy to setup
lovely detailed prints and I mean really nice compared to FDM

Cons -
IPA is super expensive (around £20 in the UK for 5 litres and you will go through it!)
Resin again expensive and you need choose the right resin for the job in hand, the basic Elegoo stuff I've used it very brittle.
Tissue paper and Gloves lots of them!
build volume is poor but my other printer is a 370mm Voron so that might taint it a bit
Clean up can be a pain even with a wash and cure station if you don't have a lot of space to work in.

By far the worst part I've found so far is slicing the file, placing the supports choosing the right ones etc is very time consuming and laborious, automatic supports pick the wrong places, add to many or not enough = failed print or a pain to clean up, I'm using Lychee slicer BTW the free version, I cant comment on the paid version.

Going forward I will be using water washable resin to mitigate the IPA price, I have a slight regret in going resin as I didn't fully appreciate the amount of work and cost in using it, but if you have the space, time and money and a specific use for it then the printer is fantastic and well constructed.

I realise what I've written is probably quite negative regarding Resin printing but these are things I wish I had paid more attention to before buying!

@adhanabal

https://forum.duet3d.com/post/222773

https://docs.duet3d.com/duet_boards/duet_3_mb6hc/duet3_mb_6hc_v1.02_d1.1_wiring.png

its on the wiring diagram

@jamaicarasta it might be the format displayed and also possibly irrelevant but do you have the bed.g info inside the config.g file?

@jay_s_uk thanks for the link I`ve not got my head around conditional gcode yet but I'll just give it ago

@peirof not sure what board you have but I have board fans running on the MCU temp -

M308 S2 P"mcu-temp" Y"mcu-temp" A"mcu-temp" ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin temp2
M950 F2 C"out9" Q500 ; create fan 2 on pin out.2 and set its frequency (CPU fan)
M106 P2 H2 T40 C"CPU fan" ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned on

@foesi have you mapped the tool in config.g using M563?

Finally posted my enclosure on Thingiverse, I’ll be making further refinements but it’s mostly there, I’m really happy how the logo came out, any suggestions I’m happy to hear them

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4307535

#edit I have unfortunately had to close my account on thingiverse due to the recent hacking etc I’ll attach the latest STLs to this post soon for those who want them

@3dpmicro I don't mind paying a price as I understand a lot of work goes into designing the software, what I do have is a distaste for is monthly/yearly subscriptions which I personally couldn't justify investing in, I`m sure given time there will be more options as I'm sure there is a growing demand/interest in 5 axis cams/slicers for hobbyists, till then like you say, 3+2 works with a little work

@mrawesome987 I'm no way qualified to answer that to be honest, but I did run a very similar set up (without the belt) I didn't have any issues in that regard, I have had the same problem you have though but with 3 lead screws and that was because I hadn`t constrained my bed well enough.

Are your lead screws bent when not attached to the machine? i.e roll them on a flat surface and watch for wobble if they are good check for alignment issues on your printer.

@Phaedrux, @PaulHew , I think I have found out what the issue is or issues! The first was the sensor height after it was moved further up, the nozzle will now home correctly and the correct distance to the bed!

The other issue which I’m sure contributed to both the z cal and my board locking up was I’m sorry to say bad workmanship, after we spoke Paul I started shift stuff around for the standalone, thats when I saw the Z axis driver plug pins where not sitting in line it’s plugged it fine when you pull the plug they are all aligned, all have continuity with no shorts but some solder got further into the pin causing a poor connection!

I’ve now redone the plug and so far so good, I’ve Carried out G32 and will attempt a print shortly to see if there is any difference.

Either way I can’t thank you both enough for your help, feel like I might actually now get somewhere!

I’ll update the thread post print!

Jim

@CrazyCreator it needs flashing prior to fitting along with ensuring the dip switches are in the right position, all the info is here -

https://teamgloomy.github.io/fly_sht36_max_v3_general.html

I use this board on a XOL toolhead, watch out for the ribbon connectors I found them quite tricky!

@adhanabal your very welcome hope you got what you needed to do done

@adhanabal

https://forum.duet3d.com/post/222773

https://docs.duet3d.com/duet_boards/duet_3_mb6hc/duet3_mb_6hc_v1.02_d1.1_wiring.png

its on the wiring diagram

@Snippy ironically I had this same issue only a week or so ago, try uninstalling bossa, redownloading it and also change the USB port you are using, mine was stuck on 5%

@Dad003 given your Klicky has an LED I'm guessing its the PCB type? from what I've read its a 5v supply might be worth checking, but it may only power the LED, it may also help to turn the printer off disconnect the probe and meter out the switch on the signal/ground lines and check the switch is working without the power line connected, as another possible issue my klicky config doesn't have the input inverted with the ! in it, you need to find out if it's a normal open or closed switch fitted.

Solved...typical, just after I wrote this I thought to reinstall Bossa, and also change USB ports, it now works!

morning, I attempted to update my 6HC to 3.6 unfortunately I messed it up, this resulted in the board not connecting to DWC so I have tried to erase and reset the firmware to 3.5.4.

the board connects to bossa and is recognised on the USB port, I direct it to the bin file, tick the 3 boxes and the upload starts, unfortunately the the upload hangs at 5% and wont go any further.

I have tried re-downloading fresh firmware, moving the file further up the root, erasing again but nothing is making a difference, does anybody have any more ideas I can try?

@Snyggis-0 morning, if I've read your post right your looking for an additional axis, not assigning motors to axes? if that's the case you need to add the axis to M584.

https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m584-set-drive-mapping

Rn (optional, supported in RRF 3.2beta1 and later) 0 = axes created in this command are linear, 1 = axes created are rotational. If not present, then RRF 3.2beta3 and later assume UVW are linear and ABCD are rotational.

the additional "Y" axis would actually be labelled "U" and you then assign which drive you are using to it.

@jay_s_uk thanks, I was hoping this was the case it's a better option than using multiple tool boards!, I'll be keeping eye open for any updates

Morning, I have been nosing around at the box turtle I know it's directed at Klipper but I noticed the control board uses an STM32H723 MCU.

https://github.com/xbst/AFC-Lite/tree/master

could this be made to work with a duet board? I don't know a great deal regarding CAN protocol. but I'm guessing it`ll need firmware written/ported to make it act like a tool board? are there any plans from teamgloomy?

@jay_s_uk @gloomyandy