I dont like it all, things are not organized in any way, I just converted back

again, answered my own question, apparently the old deploy and retract g files for when I had the bltouch were conflicting. I deleted those files and error went away

I have never been able to get a clear answer from anybody what these numbers actually mean? When doing the 3 axis level
Leadscrew adjustments made: -0.017 -0.027 -0.017, points used 3, deviation before 0.020 after 0.000
the deviation before .02 after 000 I dont quite understand what that is telling me? How did it come up with that .020 for example

Is it possible using a simple switch to require the firmware to see a condition for say 3 seconds before it pauses the print? Instead of instantly?

Because sometimes doing a retraction makes the filament sensor trigger for a second even though its not actually out

@Phaedrux said in Bed mesh leveling with dc42 IR sensor:

It seems like the IR light is partially shining into the glass rather than being reflected by the top surface. I suggest you get a regular piece of paper and put it on the surface before doing another mesh and see how it looks in comparison.

Ill try that here soon when this print is done. But the 3 axis bed leveling always levels perfectly. this is my the last probe before printing its always really close to each other.

Leadscrew adjustments made: -0.738 -0.738 -0.728, points used 3, deviation before 0.735 after 0.000
are these negative numbers when leveling the 3 axis an indication its seeing thru the glass? -.738 at least its consistent lol Im just trying to understand the technicalities here. My Z probe offset is around 2.1

@dc42 said in Can I use an IR sensor as the X and Y endstop?:

There are much simpler Hall effect endstops available, all you need is a 3-pin IC and a capacitor.

Oh wow, I was not aware of using hall effect sensors for endstops I just googled it. lol That looks like a great way to go. I see a lot of them on amazon with led and resistor on board already. I dont wanna have to solder pc boards so i will try some of these pre made ones

It is not an anynet printer its a custom built printer Im just using the anynet bed plate for my print surface because its cheap and works well

I have a leveling question. I currently have bed mesh turned off because it was causing problems. I am using dc42 IR bed sensor, and 3 axis bed leveling and it is pretty darn accurate right now. But im curious with my previous attempt at bed mesh leveling you can see it shows mostly under the zero point of bed? I am using a anet 3d black tempered glass bed plate. Is that my problem? its black tempered glass but if I look closely at the glass it looks like the surface is covered in many black dots. Could it be that the sensor sometimes seeing between the dots and causing the unlevel mesh?
Im wondering in general too does the fact that it shows most of the points way under the zero point indicate something or is that just showing my Z offset I have programmed?

I was curious about this same thing but doing it in a little different way. Mounting the board horizontal in place of my switches. And then just mounting a small printed black block or something on the frame.
I already have my config set to Y home before X home so it doesnt drag the switch for X.
I know none of this is necessary per say I just enjoy custom building stuff. Do you think it would work well? Here are pictures of my current X and Y home switches

Im running version 2.05

I changed the line to M581 E0 T1 S0 C1 and it appears to be working now not sure the difference between M591 and M581 but it works

M574 X1 Y1 S0 ; Set active low endstops
M591 D0 P1 C3 ; simple switch

why does my print not stop? I can see under machine properties the E0 endstop changes whether there is filament or not but print does not pause

great thanks for the clarification