Posts made by AdiGital

@bearer Haha! She liked your comment I printed her a couple of kitchen tools and she was all happy

@mmiscool I was gonna suggest to disable checksum in config (as I did for my custom UI) but removed the post, realising it probably won't work for printing. I believe it's meant for control only.

And here is the SUIFD code and short connections description:
https://github.com/AdiGitalEU/SUIFD

@bearer - the cooling is on the back side as well. The board is pressed against aluminium bar via thermo pad.

Thank yuo @DennisHall

Apologies I was inactive for so long. Was busy with something else. I didn't even update the Duet firmware and I'm still on 1.xx.

After planning on publishing more detailed video/review of the printer I failed to do so. I eventually gave up and today published a "work in progress" version I created some time ago. Just came here to post a link and found the posts. Really sorry.

I'll do my best to dig up all I've got for the UI display and create the documentation. It's quite simple design.

The video if anyone interested:
https://youtu.be/y1CbmgtJGtQ

Fantastic build! The tool mount looks very interesting. Waiting for more pictures.

Success!

I'm happy to report I managed to fix the board. All the ICs (except U12 and U3) were replaced not only once but twice!

After ensuring the drivers don't feed high voltage back to the controller I replaced it along with the ESP. After I flashed them both I was getting excited seeing working web control. I tried the drivers but no response. So I assumed they are fried too. Replaced all of them (the board thermal characteristics is soooo freaking good - unfortunately in this case ). That didn't help, still no working motors. I was too lazy to turn the oscilloscope and check the signals. I assumed the only chip I didn't replace (U10) was faulty and ordered a new one. Today I replaced it and still no progress. Only then I checked and found SPI data wasn't getting due to poor soldering.

So I removed the controller and re-soldered it with more care. And voila! All good. So just to complete and to avoid any hidden soldering problems I replaced the drivers to the old ones, which as suspected work just as fine.

Thank you @T3P3Tony, @Roland and @dc42.

Here is the board working and looking like new again

I believe it already is. On the General page select Firmware version 1.20 or newer.

Are you sure you're not forgetting step 6 of the guide (zero the current height after adjusting nozzle)?
Then measure G31 and store the reported probe height in config.

I've got exactly the same hot end/heater model but using the standard thermistor. The waring says the predicted is 807C. Also wondering how to adjust the P. All I found so far in the documentation is:

"The P value is the PWM value to use. Unless your heater is greatly over-powered, use the default PWM value of 1.0"

Wondering how to adjust it and if lowering the PWM will affect the heat-up speed.

Question most likely to @dc42 - I'm on finishing touches with my control panel. I'm "querying" the Duet with, what I think is save 5 times/s. I'm not sure what is the impact of handling the M408 S0 on the Duet and what is the max/reasonable frequency.

Hi, have a look here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_bed_heater

Just a little note - the forum link on the main page (duet3d.com) still leads to the old one.

If Duet isn't visible in Device Manager that means the controller isn't working. If only SD Card is getting hot it could be it's damaged and drawing the 3.3V down - resulting the main controller not being able to operate. There is also LED on the edge showing the presence of 3.3V (next to Erase button)

I also used 12V strips on 24V system but I cut them in half and wired them in series. Then directly connected to Duet. Can't get simpler than that I think.

User profile -> Settings -> Language

Looks great!

Thank you David for the tip. I missed the capacitor but will surely replace it. Thanks to Roland I should get the original replacements so I will not be risking testing the TMCs, I'll just replace them all. Later, after the board is working fine I might try the replaced IC's just in case.

After shaking off the first anger and shock (and ordering a new board) I started looking at the dead body. I evaluated my skills and chances of repairing the board and I think it's doable. I do however have a few mysteries to solve and would appreciate any help. Unfortunately I have no spare parts and need to establish if at all the project has a slightest chances of success. I may be taking a long shot here but I just can’t look at the fantastic piece of electronics lying dead, and want to make sure I did all I could before resting it in the grave

The cause of death was shorting 24V to 5V rail.

After replacing 3.3V regulator I identified the obvious parts to be replaced (they got hot) and removed them from the board.

• SAM4E (U1)
• 74HCT02 (U11)
• ESP module (U4)

Without those components the board draws about 80mA, which I think it’s fine. The 5V converter provides 4.91V, so seems within the margin. I examined and probed the rest of the components and they seem to react correctly (D flip-flop U12 and the buffer U10). The heater CMOS transistors also react when manually triggered with signals.

The big question remains about the TMC2660 drivers. I can’t find any supplier with stock so if they’re dead I won’t bother with the rest (for now). In the current shape I can’t test them. They seem OK, not burning or drawing excessive current, and also, if some of the other components survived maybe the drivers did too? The documentation says they require proper initialisation via SPI. I haven’t yet looked at any code to do that. First I need to hook them up to an external controller. The SPI1 signals are buffered by U10 and I would have to use the SAM4E pads as I can’t see any other pads. To prevent any damage to the traces I may be removing the U10 buffer and use the buffered rails on the extension socket. Would appreciate any suggestions if there are other methods.

The next question is the SAM4. I’m not too familiar with this family and may be taking a shortcut here. The SAM4E8E is in limited availability but SAM4E16E is available. I don’t know if there are any other differences than the amount of flash. In other words, would the latter get flashed the firmware fine or do I have to get the exact replacement?

The last part is the ESP module. The original is ESP12-F, which I believe differs from the E version only in antenna design. Would be the ESP-12E cause any problems?

And the last step is flashing both from zero. Are there any special steps required?

For now that’s all I got.

@T3P3Tony:

aha! so you are connecting the ESP to the PanelDue header?

Yes, that's correct.
I'm using a few libraries to get the JSON data, handle the screen, UI jpg files and so on, and just sending the G-code commands back to it. So it really is micro-PanelDue (read: a poor substitute). The were two reasons I made it: I wanted to give the printer my personal touch, and I didn't have much space for the original PanelDue.