Best posts made by bartolomeus

For python noobs like me: I uploaded the script into a browser based python implementaition, and it outputs the gcode: http://www.skulpt.org/#

@dc42 for me the benefit of the mmu2 is that it remains direct drive, and doesn't add mass to the X carriage.

@Dougal1957 Because I am using a 4th axis for the xtruder. From the wiki:

"You must specify the XY offsets of the extruder outputs on additional towers relative to machine centre in the M669 command, for example:

M669 X150 Y100"

Anyway, your answer did point me in the right direction. I think I've almost solved it.

After having built a HEVO, and always struggling with the lead screws (somehow the ones I got were always bent) I went looking for something else and stumbled upon the V-King: https://github.com/RoyBerntsenDesign/V-King

I liked the idea of a belted z, and went ahead and built one. I like the simple approach, most extrusions are 500mm. You can buy a kit from ratrig with 12x500mm extrusions, and then you just need some more extrusions for the bed frame (another 4x500mm) and x-axis (480mm). In standard config you get about 340x390 build volume. With the worm gear setup, the bed doesn't drop when power is off.

I first built the original frame and used it. After a few months of use, I decided to do some small modifications: I replaced the openbuilds corners (didn't like m) with 3-way brackets from ebay and added a second z-motor setup. My build volume is now app 340x340 and each corner of the z axis is driven by a belt. I could easliy add an extra one or two z motors and have automatic bed levelling.

Further details:

• Duet Wifi
• 0.9 steppers on x and y
• Bondtech extruder with capricorn bowden
• E3d Chimera+
• Gates belts on x and y
• Minimal use of cloned parts

Below is a pic of the build, and a pic of the first print after the rebuild.

@pro3d It is not what I miss, but you are only providing small bits of information. If you want help from experienced users here, provide the information they ask. So post your whole config.g instead of just parts of it.

From your heater settings, if you have the standard e3d thermistor, these should be the right settings: M305 P1 B4725 C7.060000e-8 (https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/V6+RepRap+Firmware+Configuration/26?lang=en)

Your setting is different, but I can't tell if this will affect the sensor readings. Maybe others can.

Ok, solved. My M669 was wrong, it is X-100 Y20. Apparantly with Y-20, in combination with the specified 4th axis 'rod length', the probe points were out of reach. Thanks @Danal

@WilcoE said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

@bartolomeus said in quality issues with Ender 3 and Duet Wifi:

E30000?

Yes, that was also in my first config post.
Should i change that also to 480?

Not 480, but 30000 is too high. Maybe start with 600 or so for the bmg clone. Actually I don't know the recommend jerk setting for BMG but 30000 is too high.