Posts made by benkay

@rbjam83 Try a 1.8 deg stepper on your extruder, there is really no advantage to 0.9 here...whereas there arguably would be on X&Y.

Try a different micro step / interpolation setting on E also.

Looks correct to me...although I understand that the later boards have the diode in-built so not strictly necessary to add one there.

Hi.

I'm testing a liquid-cooling solution which came with an adaptor to suit the thread-mount.

Others in the same beta program have fitted the unit no problem, but my half-nut and thread seem different.

The supplied adaptor is M12 x 1.5 , which most other people have found fine.

However, my Duet kit seems to have M12 x 1.0 thread ?

Which is correct and ongoing, do I have a pre-release version or something?

Thanks, Ben

@klcjr89 Thanks, I think I'll go parallel too.

What is the noise like generated by the air pump in use or parts cooling? I guess it runs at a relatively low PWM for this purpose....

@klcjr89 Which of the brushless pumps is best for this application? Series or parallel?

It'll be the same set up as Tevo Little Monster I'm sure. You're right, there's an SSR in the power box. So just connect the 24V bed heater wires from the MKS, onto same points on the Duet board.

The Duet then just controls the SSR (barely any current), bed current continues to flow through the SSR as before.

6 factor calibration - I've set the rod lengths myself as I had the calibration numbers from the labels on the mag-ball arms.

No, i'm using a smart effector so that shouldn't be the issue.

Hi David,

Thanks for the input.

My process (in start g-code) is usually

1. G28 ; home
2. Heat up extruder to printing temp, heat up bed to printing temp.
3. G32 ; (runs bed.g, which does somtehing like 8 perimeter probes and 5 intermediate probes and centre probe)
4. At the end of my bed.g file, I have G29 S1 to load mesh
5. Run purgenozzle.g

So in essence I'm auto calibrating at printing temperatures and printing begins with no homing move between the calibration and the print starting.

Does that sound like I'm doing everything correctly?

I did a big print (first layer 0.15) that took up almost the whole bed (240mm diameter) and was getting very squashed, almost non-existent extrusion on the left side of the bed, and much taller extrusion on the other side (calibration result was 0.039)

Aha…well that explains the G29 overall offset then......so next open question is does a G32 automatically set correct z-height?

HI all,

I'm a little confused with calibrating a delta.

In my start script, I have it run a G32 delta calibration, and then G29 S1, to load the mesh level.

Does a G32 also set the correct z-height automatically, or do I also need to do a G30 ?

Reason I ask is I often have to play with baby stepping (an awful lot) to get sensible first layer adhesion.

My result of a G32 is usually 0.032 so I think I'm within reasonable tolerances in terms of the build.

Also, sometimes if I run G29, my result comes back with the expected low and high spots, but the mean/median position is the grid plane on the visualisation. Other times I run G29, the bed in its entirety is all above the grid plane…

What is the correct procedure/timing for when to run G29?

Thanks, Ben

Looks great. With the new easy-print version for berd-air….is this file universal for standard v6 and volcano?

Looks great. With the new easy-print version for berd-air….is this file universal for standard v6 and volcano?

OK, I've been recommended a reprap Power expander which I understand opto-isolates the Duet board.

Presuming resistance is >8 ohms, or I put a thermistor in series, is there then no risk to the duet board? I'd prefer to wire it direct, simply to reduce the wiring mess needed for the power expander.

Hi,

I've seen mixed reports on whether a 24V air pump can be wired directly to a Duet VIN Fan Header, or not.

The specs ripped from the product description are :

Rated voltage: 24V
No load current: 400MA
Recommended supply : 24V 2A (needs sourcing)

Some confirmation would be good if I can wire direct, or if I need some sort of relay/power expander.

Thanks, Ben

Pretty sure not, it'll be to "centres", and as the ball sits roughly half way into the socket, you just use the overall length of the arms.

HI all,

I printed a battery holder for a micro-quadcopter yesterday.

In essence it is a rectangle flat plate, with two slots in the base, then some built up sides. Very much like this (I can't find the original thingiverse page now) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2798064

The print looks fantastic, no stringing, perfect holes etc.

However, the overall print is not "square". i.e. it's more like a parallelogram when looking from the top or bottom. I printed it with the long edge along the X-axis.

I've not noticed this before, but it's also rare I print anything so uniform in shape….what could cause that?

The G32 routine run in the start code had a resulting deviation of 0.038 by the way.

Printer is Tevo LM adapted with duet wifi board and smart effector.

I'm getting temperature deviations…typically way too low. I've just swapped cooling arrangement to the circular duct as posted in the Smart effector forum.

Thanks for the detailed explanation...that all makes sense. Of course to the layman it seems as if the smoothieware process is "doing more" whereas the RRF method seems more simple.

aUto-tuning always completes successfully, but I do always get the "over powered" warning on both the hot-end and the bed….I only ever get heater faults for the hot-end though.

I should add, I'm not always there when the fault kicks in, but it seems to be on prints where there are very mixed processes. i.e. large top surface fill section, then some infill, some perimeters etc.

Hi all,

I seem to be having more frequent heater faults than ever before.

I've tried M303 H1 S*** PID tuning, which completes successfully.

I've been doing it at S220 which is about the max I usually print at. Is that right, or should PID tuning be done up to a very high temp?

Also, on Smoothieware, the PID tuning seems a bit more comprehensive. i.e. it will do multiple rises and falls around the target temp. probably upwards of 5 heating cycles…I guess this adds data points compared to the one time heat that RRF seems to do.

Is this intentional, or is there room for improvement on PID tuning?