Posts made by coreZair

@bearer said in Sudden consistent under-voltage events:

Measure voltage at PSU and at Duet Vin to see if there is a difference that would suggest bad wiring leading to excessive voltage drop. 10.9 to 11.1v for a 12v supply when idle is a bit on the low side i would think

Good idea.
Most power supplies with metal frame and terminals got a little potentiometer close to the terminals. You can adjust your output voltage to the nominal 12V by turning that potentiometer. You only got around 11V which is a bit low.

If you simply don't like the noise/bang then you could lower the steppers current for the homing process...

Add...

M400 ; wait for moves to finish
M913 X50 Y50 ; lower XY stepper current to 50%

to the top of your homing gcode. And add to the end...

M400 ; wait for moves to finish
M913 X100 Y100 ; get back to 100% current

To get 100% of your desired current again.

Did you add M501 at the end of your config.g?
You need that to load the settings saved with M500

You could also try to decrease your jerk settings a little. Jerk in Marlin works different than in RepRapFirmware.

Your values are
M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z24.00 E300.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

I would try to use more cautios paramters and bump them up after successful prints.
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z24.00 E300.00 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z50.00 E3000.00 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)

More like this. Give it a try.

False alarm!
My part cooling fan cable simply had a cable rupture.
The behaviour was strange anyway, the cable had contact and let the fan work on the idle and pause positions, but not in the middle of the bed (where the prints happen). A little bend of the cable strain and the part cooling fan worked again. Changed the cable with a spare one, works like a charm!

Thank you if you already spend time to my problem.

Happy printing!
Patrick

Hi all,

I got a strange problem since today. Yesterday everything was fine and also the last weeks since setup, too.

My problem is that the part cooling fan does not turn on during prints. But it can be turned on and controlled when no print is running via the PanelDue control and web interface. It reacts normal via M106 S0 to S1.0 or S255 normally and I can turn the fan off afterwards. But as soon as I start a print the fan turns off.
The "fun" begins when you hit Pause on the PanelDue. The fan turns on with the given value, as soon as XY is moving to the pause position. When I hit resume on the PanelDue it stays on until XY start to move, then it's off again.

I checked the settings duringthe print with some gcodes:
M563 P0
Tool 0 - drives: 0; heaters (active/standby temps): 1 (210.0/210.0); xmap: X; ymap: Y; fans: 0; status: selected
T
Tool 0 is selected
M106
Fan0 frequency: 50Hz, speed: 60%, min: 10%, blip: 0.30, inverted: no, name:

But the fan is not spinning at all.

I even used an older gcode on the SD card to verify that it's the firmware settings and not the slicer. The older gcode worked perfectly last week and now all I got is an overheated gooey mass.

You can find a gcode file and my config down below.
Do you guys have any idea what could be wrong?
Im open to all unusual ideas.

0_1562766569244_rpla_2020_gpsublox_extender2.gcode

@tonyp
Its the fault of your own start.gcode
I will mark the critical lines with "<<<<<<<"

• G28 ; home all axes
  G1 X5 Y10 Z0.2 F3000 ; get ready to prime
  G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance ..... <<<<<<<
  G1 X160 E15 F600 ; prime nozzle ..... <<<<<<<
  G1 X180 F5000 ; quick wipe
  ; process Process1
  ; layer 1, Z = 0.070
  T0
  G1 E-1.0000 F7500 ..... <<<<<<<
  ; feature skirt
  ; tool H0.200 W0.360
  G1 Z0.100 F1002
  G1 X69.744 Y92.155 F4800
  G1 Z0.070 F1002
  G1 E0.0000 F7500 ..... <<<<<<<
  G1 X160.256 Y92.155 E2.7094 F1200 ..... <<<<<<<

You reset the extrusion distance to early. After your reset you extrude 15mm of filament, then S3D starts the print naturally with a retraction to move to the start position of your print, which is -1.00mm, so you are retracting a massive 16mm at the beginning.
Simplify3D is set to absolute extrusion per default, so you should reset your extrusion length before the print moves start.

The solution is to move the line

• G92 E0 ; reset extrusion distance

to the end of your start.gcode or use relative extrusion. You are using absolute extrusion at the moment.

@buzzby said in Think I have just blown the board. ft Orion Peizo:

Checking the pins the thing is shorted.

That's not certain. I guess the 3.3V rail is supplying more devices than just the ESP. That the ESP is shorted is just a guess and there could be more shorts. Unfortunately there is no way to check each possible defective device on it's own. The only way is to desolder those one after the other until all shorts are gone.

@buzzby said in Think I have just blown the board. ft Orion Peizo:

Could i try and swap out with a replacement one.

Before you do anything, do you still have warranty? Is this a case for warranty? Don't think so, right?
@dc42 and the other PCB scholars out there, is there a way to disconnect the ESP from the 3.3V rail temporarily? Like a 0 Ohm resistor or similar?

The best way to desolder the ESP is to use a SMD rework station. Do you have experience in desoldering big chips?

After you desoldered the ESP check if the short is gone, if so, congratulations. Someone here should give you the needed information about which firmware to flash onto the ESP.

Kind regards

@buzzby said in Think I have just blown the board. ft Orion Peizo:

The WiFi module is quite hot while running. Is that normal or could that be broken as well.

I got some experiences with those ESP8266 12E (the Duet's WiFi boards) as well. Not on the Duet but on my own fried PCB designs. I used an unstable power supply and fried them after a couple of months using a little overvoltage. The chance that your GND and 3.3V pin on the ESP8266 is shorted is very high.
Could you check if the GND and 3.3V pin is shorted on your board? To check this you could simply use a multimeter and measure the resistance of the both golden pads named Gnd (15) and Vcc (8) in the ESP's pinout. It should not be close to 0...

If this is the case, the only solution would be to desolder the ESP and try again. I don't know if the ESP got a fuse, a 0 Ohm resistor bridge, or something? That could help a lot to 'deactivate' the ESP temporarily. If the short on the 3.3V rail is gone you could simply resolder an ESP8266 and flash a new ESP firmware. If you have the right equipment of course.

Kind regards,
Patrick

@jarery said in Pressure Advance Calibration:

E2000

Hi @Jarery

I don't know if I can still help you, you asked that question way back in April. But I would try to decrease your extruder jerk dramatically. I got mine around 4-5mm/s, and because the values are in mm/min that translates to 240-300. Your extruder jerk is at 2000, meaning that your extruder doesn't try to accelerate in most cases and could loose steps easily, which seems plausible concerning your shown print results.

And at all, and of course @DigitalVision I tried to improve your python script a little. Added some comments, a cooling fan speed parameter, start and end gcodes kind of parameters, and some small tweaks. If you want you can merge it to your script or link this one in your first post.

For all the windows-python newbies:

1. Install python3 or newer (or python2.7, also called python27, but it's getting unsupported by the end of the year, so install python3)
2. navigate to the downloaded pressureadvance2.py script in your explorer
3. open the file with a good editor (no not editor.exe! I mean a good one) and change the parameters to fit your printer. Be careful not overshooting the dimensions and bed center!
4. hold down shif key and right click on and empty spot in the file list of the windows explorer
5. choose "open terminal here" or "open command line here" or similar
6. type in: python pressureadvance2.py > output.gcode

the shell command simply means "use [python] with script [ pressureadvance2.py ] and redirect output [>] to the file [output.gcode]"

7. Use calipers to measure the position of the best layer. Mine was at around 7mm of 20mm total height for having the parameters set to pressureadvance_min = 0.0 and pressureadvance_max = 0.2. Meaning you get a gradient from 0 to 0.2... Now simply use math to calculate your pressure advance value for your printed calibration wall. It's a good idea to reprint a version with refined parameters around your determined sweet spot. I reprinted one in 0.05 to 0.10 for my roughly measured 0.07 of my first version, finally sticked with 0.068

For my direct extruder with hobb goblin ID 5mm with e3d volcano and 0.8mm nozzle I got round about 0.068
Tests with my 0.4mm Volcano is up next.

Have fun guys!

pressureadvance2.py