Posts made by Crash69

Wasnt sure if I should start a new thread, hopefully its ok just to add here, I printed the concept above from brunofporto with the latest changes by adrian52.. but I don't have the right bearings on hand to properly test. Was going to take a while for bearings to get delivered..

So I decided to have a go at trying to come up with my own design. The goal was to use some decent quality bearings I had on hand - 5x10x4 (mr105) and because I figured it would be something I would be printing different version of, something that was quick & easy to assemble.

So here's my attempt:

I have tried various sensor to bearing surface distances so far.. and I'm finding that around 9mm seems to be the most consistent.

Here is a output from a recent print:

So far it seems to work really well - quite similar to adrian52's results. If you normalise the raw average figure of 299 to be 1 (or 100%) then the lowest reading is 0.956 (4.5% below the average) and the highest reading is 1.023 (2.3% above the average.

I have short tube of around 25mm between the sensor and my extruder input.. so I have set the check to be every 5mm instead of the 3mm in the example which still allows plenty of time to pause the printer if there is an issue, but the slightly longer check also seems to help a bit with consistency.

I have put my stl's and .scad file on thingiverse for anyone to use/mod/try

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3673768

As an alternative to running a VPN or reverse proxy, you can set a password on each of your printers

1. set a password on each printer using the M551 command in your config.g
2. set each printer to have a fixed internal IP
3. set port forwarding, preferably use an obscure port - IE something like port forward 7193 from external or some other random port to your internal DUET port 80, then on 2nd printer use port 7194 etc

I do this for for my 3 printers, along with a webcams on each so I can monitor prints when I am at work using my pc or my phone when I'm out for dinner etc, I need to supply the password to do anything like stop the printer if I need to etc.

Sure VPN / SSH / Reverse Proxy and other methods are providing more robust security but they add complexity and steps to monitor your prints from outside. using an obscure port along with requiring a password is enough for me, I'm in the "I just want to get it working simply and with at least some form of password protection" camp

And I love the WiFi, I have 3 Duets - 2 Wifi's and an older 0.6 with ethernet.. I hate having to run a network cable to the printer with the 0.6 ethernet as well as worry about moving it around and pulling on the cable etc.. that said once its in place its fine.

I took one of my WiFi printers into work to show it off, was really easy to just find a spare power outlet, connect to the work wifi (with a macro I prepared in advance) and bam away it goes.

But, we have very reliable strong Wifi at our work, and I have a fairly decent one at home as well (ubiquiti unifi), although I also had no troubles using it on a cheap tplink router with built-in wifi as well. as has been said if you have poor or congested WiFi then the ethernet is probably a safer bet.

1. set a password using the M551 command in your config.g
2. set your Duet to have fixed IP as you suggested - (my preference is via reservation)
3. if you don't have fixed IP from your ISP, use a dynamic dns service
4. set port forwarding.. to avoid possibility of your ISP blocking or Bandwith limiting port 80, preferably use an obscure port - IE port forward 7193 from external or some other random port to your DUET port 80

then from outside connect to your router ip address (or dddns name) on your random port.. it will not let you do anything or see current activity on your printer without putting in your password from step1

I do this for for my printer, along with a webcam so I can monitor prints when I am at work from my pc or my phone when I'm out for dinner etc, and stop the printer if I need to etc. I can also show off the prints to others lol.

Sure VPN and SSH and other methods might be more robust security but they add complexity and steps to monitor. I'm in the "I just want to get it working simply and with at least some form of password protection" camp

the heaters heat up, then the printer homes every thing and then stops and the heaters shut down and the printer reports it is finished.

I had a very similar issue on mine after upgrading to 1.19. Mine would heat up then start to go through my startup script, then stop.

Just in case it helps you identify your issue, what I found was in my startup script I had a comment that had an open-bracket and close-bracket in it, and it went over two lines.. removing the unintentional carriage return so its only on one line OR removing the open & close brackets in the comments fixed the issue.

here is my original startup script.. its the 3rd line (M106) command that caused the issue.

G32 ; Calibrate prior to print…
M564 S0 ; allow movemount outside printable area for purge
M106 S40 P2 ; turn on led light (255 is full bright
40 is dim)
G0 Z5 X-60 Y-132 F5000 ; raise up and go off the edge of the bed for a purge
G1 E15 F400 ; purge
G0 Z0.3 ; drop to bed height ready for a wipe
G1 X-10 E20 F400 ; Extrude 20mm of filament in a 5cm line at speed of 400
M564 S1 ; limit to print area again now purge complete
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 E-1 F800 ; Retract a bit
G1 X15 -0.3 F3000 ; Quickly wipe in another 2.5cm with some retraction then ready for print.

changing it to:

G32 ; Calibrate prior to print…
M564 S0 ; allow movemount outside printable area for purge
M106 S40 P2 ; turn on led light 255 is full bright
40 is dim
G0 Z5 X-60 Y-132 F5000 ; raise up and go off the edge of the bed for a purge
G1 E15 F400 ; purge
….

worked fine.. and also changing it to:

G32 ; Calibrate prior to print…
M564 S0 ; allow movemount outside printable area for purge
M106 S40 P2 ; turn on led light (255 is full bright 40 is dim)
G0 Z5 X-60 Y-132 F5000 ; raise up and go off the edge of the bed for a purge
G1 E15 F400 ; purge
…

works fine.. I didnt even realise I had a new line halfway through the comment which is just poor techinque anyway,

I like the idea of some sort of file transfer script to the duet as a S3D post process, mainly to reduce the steps required…

I've come from smoothieboard, which at the time had problems with S3D.. so I'm used to annoying steps in the process, the smoothie/s3d issues is now comipletely fixed by the way, but what I used to have to do was:

• Slice in S3D, save to temp folder

• alt-tab to web site for S3D move cleanup process

• upload gcode file from temp folder

• Save processed file back to temp folder

• alt-tab to octoprint page

• upload gcode file from temp folder

• Hit print & watch

So I'm pretty used to multiple steps. but its better now, with my DUET my process is:

• Slice in S3D, save to temp folder

• alt-tab to DWC page

• upload gcode file from temp folder

• Hit print & watch

If I could have a S3D post process script that saved the file directly to the DUET, probably via FTP I assume would be easiest.. then it would save having to have a temp folder and the upload step.. it would end up:..

• Slice in S3D, (Post process script saves directly to DUET.. with option on what folder it saves to? )

• alt-tab to DWC page

• Hit print & watch

@Pumlux:

Did anyone had success to access the Duet Wifi from the internet ?

Let me describe again what the goal to achieve is.

Access the Duet wifi (having a private IP address) via the public IP internet over a router.
Normaly this requires a port forwarding rule on the router, something like
forward (external IP port) (Duet wifi external) to (ip of Duet Wifi) port 80
e.g. take 2000 as external IP port and the duet wifi ip address as 192.160.0.100

This would allow you to access your Duet Wifi over the internet .
With the duet 0.8.5 this works perfectly, with the duet wifi the connection can not be established.

In case this is still a question, I can confirm this does work just like it does for my Duet 0.6. I finally got my new printer up and running today with duet wifi, I setup port forwarding as test and confirmed it could be accessed externally via public IP.

running 1.18beta firmware, 1.14a dwc and 1.03 wifi server.

I use this calculator to get an idea on max speeds of any particular stepper @ voltage, The key is the impedance figure of your steppers.

http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/Stepper-Motor-Calculator.phtml

simplified (enough for me to comprehend lol) torque reduces as speed is increased. If you need more speed, you want to increase volts as already identified and/or find steppers with lower inductance (one of my key criteria for stepper selection is low impedance).

Would be challenging to get any sort of speed out of a leadscrew based printer I would have thought.

My order of preference

18, 3, 17, 1, 20, 6, 8, 14

I know I'm going against the grain but I think 2 is possibly asking too much for the duet, I just don't see most needing that level of security on their local network and if they do there is always the option of putting it behind a firewall. I'd rather have that processing power put into extra features myself

Thanks guys!

Yup that at least gives me some confidence I can open the port on my router and monitor prints while I'm at work.

I didn't realise that password would stop DWC from connecting, I think when I was setting up the wiki examples mentioned "currently not in use" so ignored the password setting at the time.

Is there any update on when a more detailed login control may be implemented in DWC? nothing crazy I'm just thinking fairly basic view only vs ability to stop/start/manage printer.

Thanks again

I know its likely a significant change to enable.. but any update on when login authentication to DWC might be coming?

I have seen discussion around needing to be the highest grade.. but I would be happy with anything.. right now if I open up my router there is no security at all, not even a login prompt to try to dissaude the most basic of users from playing with my printer.. I'd be happy with a simple login authentication prompt, no login no access or preferably view only - even it is done at the lowest standard of security it will be a lot better than none at all!

Thanks

@lolmodule:

I tweaked a few settings in slicer and the cube turned out almost perfect. Thanks so much for the help!

You have M92 E663.663 in the "tool definitions" section which is ultimately setting your steps/mm at 663.663 as it comes after the 1st one.

In my config I set the E steps in that same tool section, so to copy what I did.. remove the E150 from the initial M92 command (the one that is in the "axis and motor defenition" section, and change the figure in the last M92 ("tool definitions") to be what you think it is, which 150 would seem a reasonable starting point just from the picture of your extruder.

With it set to 663 steps per mm which is probably 4.3 times more that it should be.. and you attempting to extrude 100mm at a time, no doubt it would have felt like it would never stop! (it may have done almost 1/2 meter of extrusion lol)

disconnect your bowden tube from the output of the extruder…start with smaller 10mm test lengths and measure how much comes out from extruder into free air and adjust your E steps until its close to 10mm, only then move up to a larger amount like 50mm

FYI, in actual real world prints.. the extrusion feed rate is really quite slow.. as an example a print I am about to do with movement speeds of 65mm/s (woefully inadequate measurement of printing speed), simplify 3d tells me the filament usage is 12504.6mm .. and it will take 1hr 34mins. that works out to an average feedrate of around 2.14 mm/s going through the extruder. Sure that's a very crude and simplistic calculation, not taking into account retraction etc etc.. but it still gives a rough idea of the sort of average speed the extruder works at..

I built a large delta almost 12 months ago based largely on this "Delta 6" here http://openbuilds.org/builds/delta-six.476/

It has worked very well, and it was not a difficult build, although the original person has left so the info is spread over many pages of discussion along with file updates. I used the full size openbuild wheels and openbuild plates on mine as carriages (others have done similar), I have a 300mm build plate and can print 480mm tall, I used 1m verticals

One of the more recent builders of that delta-6 re-did all the files and made improvements on many of them, and this is a link the the build that has his files http://openbuilds.org/builds/delta-six-jerry426-variant.4005/

I've built a smaller kossel out of 2020, and found it ok, but I can get flex out of the 2020 that you don't get out of the larger 2040 extrusion used in the delta-6, not really an issue on the kossel size but for me I wouldn't like to use 2020 for anything larger than a std kossel size- in fact for my next build I have started I'm going 1.5m tall verticals and will use 2060 extrusion

I checked out your link, good stuff on all the changes.

One thing was bugging me today when I thought about it.. I didnt recall teh flashforge being that course on the leadscrew.

Your leadscrew should be 400steps/mm at 1/16 stepping. I was able to load up my config in simplfy3d from when I had the flashforge, and sure enough under the X3G firmware it was set to 400 steps/mm

1mm divided by 400 steps = 0.0025 per step with the standard ffcp leadscrew and 1/16 microstepping,

that makes more sense to me, since I recall I did a lot of printing at 0.25 layer height, which would be 100 complete microsteps.

my ffcp was the 1st release of the pro, but I cant imagine they changed the z leadscrew as ultimately it maintained compatibility with the makerbot replicator which had 400steps/mm on the Z

Awesome, good to hear it was a fairly easy fix, and I agree the ffcp is actually quite a good printer, my mate still uses it almost daily and gets great prints out of it.

I mainly moved on as I wanted to do taller prints, and chose to go down the build my own delta route, but I still have fond memories of my ffcp.

I had a FFCP, and from your description I suspect you might be seeing a fairly common issue with leadscrew based Z axis systems

On my FFCP I had minor Z banding, but at the same time I also had a cheaper CTC makerbot clone (almost identical design to ffcp) and that had quite noticable Z banding along with obvious ridges along the height of the print. None of which was due to microsteps or resolution. As DC42 pointed out you have a resolution of 0.04 (at 1/16 uSteps) which is plenty fine eniough to get a decent finish

I used to do most of my printing at 0.25 layer height and got decent prints. I have since passed my ffcp onto a friend and he continues to get good prints,

on the CTC I had in particular, the issue was a fairly badly bent leadscrew, as the bed raises the bed "wobbles" along with the bent screw creating noticable banding. I was able to reduce this by loosening the vertical rods and the Z ztepper and ensuring everything was as centralised and as smooth as I could. I was always going to replace the leadscrew to get rid of the remaining minor banding altogether but sold the printer before I got around to it. I also suspect getting a perfectly straight leadscrew with absolutely no run-out may not as easy as it should be.

On the FFCP it's actually a bit of a design flaw.. what I found after my reading up on it was in good design the leadscrew should be driven at one end and the other end left floating - by floating one end of the leadscrew it can "wobble" for any runout without trying to push that side movement into the bed itself. flashforge tried to make things better by going to 10mm linear rods (good) and also holding the top of the Z leadscrew (bad) I pulled that top piece off and drilled it out slightly to allow the leadscrew to wobble at the top and it reduced the minor Z banding to almost nothing on my ffcp.

@Qdeathstar:

I was thinking about check boxes for your files, so that you could for example delete several items at once by checking them using a check box, then pressing one button for delete. Would save a bit of time.

+1 for this, I was cleaning up a few files the other day and it was a bit tedious deleting one at a time.

@dc42:

Thanks, that's very useful information. I have a Zmodo camera that I haven't managed to use with DWC. I'll try a port scan on it.

in addition to the ones listed in the ispyconnect database, there is a bunch or stream URL's for zmodo camera's here too that might be useful? http://www.camera-sdk.com/p_228-how-to-connect-to-your-zmodo-ip-camera-onvif.html

Soon as you can get a stream in your browser you're good to go and add it into DWC

@Jackal:

Can we have an option to disable the webcam refresh timer? I am using a webcam with mjpg support which do not need refreshing.

mine is working with mjpeg stream as well, I just set the interval to 60 seconds so its not trying to refresh too often, but you could probably set it to something crazy like 7200s (2 hours) or even more if you really want to avoid constant refresh triggers?