Posts made by crc1337

I replaced the WiFi module with a new ESP-12S and all is well. Thanks for the help!

My M552 command is commented out, and no response to M552 commands. I am looking at ordering an ESP-12F from Digikey and swapping the module. If I have some time this weekend I may try probing the serial pins of the module just out of curiosity to see if anything else is revealed.

The messages from the firmware update process indicate that the upload was successful, and the file size of DuetWiFi.bin in the sys folder on the SD card is exactly 277,520 bytes.

SENDING:M997 S1
Trying to connect at 230400 baud:
success
Erasing 4096 bytes...
Erasing 212992 bytes...
Uploading file...
5% complete
10% complete
15% complete
20% complete
25% complete
30% complete
35% complete
40% complete
45% complete
50% complete
55% complete
60% complete
65% complete
70% complete
75% complete
80% complete
85% complete
90% complete
95% complete
Upload successful

I suspected that as well, but I've reflashed the wifi firmware multiple times, following the post you referenced and being sure to copy the right version of DuetWiFiServer.bin into the /sys folder on the SD card.

I am using the main and wifi firmwares from the 2.03 release on GitHub, I believe I also tried main firmware 2.02 and wifi firmware 1.23 (this is what I was running prior to the erase) but I'll give that a try again later today to be sure.

I'm having trouble with WiFi after the Erase button got pressed accidentally. I have reflashed the main and wifi firmwares (various versions including latest) but it seems the WiFi module just won't come up.

M552 is removed from my config.g (for testing purposes).

M552 S0 does not return any response even after several minutes.

M587 gives "Failed to add SSID to remembered list". M588 also fails to remove/factory reset.

M122 always seems to report "WiFi module is disabled" no matter what, even in the "Network state is starting" state.

M997 appears to have no problem flashing, and my firmware files appear to be complete.

Could I dealing with a bad wifi module? Is there anything else I should try before I start down the path of attempting to replace the module (assuming that is possible)?

0_1560905552192_M122.txt

Thanks, I got the new effector reinstalled last night after repairing the trace, and confirmed it's working fabulously!

I've done something boneheaded when wiring my Smart effector and inadvertently connected the ground pin of the input 2 (z-probe) connector to the negative side of my hotend wiring instead of actual ground. This had the unfortunate effect of backfeeding 10.8 volts through the heater and into the effector, causing L1 to rapidly release it's smoke once power was applied.

Miraculously, it seems perhaps the rest of the circuitry has escaped unharmed. Everything visually appears ok, and I was able to carefully supply a proper 3.3v and gnd from my bench supply and get the green light to flash with some light pressure/tapping on the board.

I'm not quite sure of the purpose of L1 (other than being a crappy fuse in my case), I'm hoping someone can tell me if it's particularly critical to proper operation (in that case a value or part # would be excellent), or if it can be safely bypassed (I have plenty of smd jumpers and resistors of various sizes and values, but no inductors onhand), also the L1 pads are gone so I'll have to do some surgery to properly replace it.

Thanks for the tips. That's a great idea of adjusting the parameters every 10 layers, I will give that a try. I am running the same accel and jerk settings on the other axes but have not spent any time tuning these and have been happy with the performance until I tried to use pressure advance.

I recently started experimenting with pressure advance, and I'm having issues with the print movement slowing significantly on certain features (particularly noticeable on certain arc movements). I understand that having extruder jerk set too low could cause this, but I've experimented with values ranging from 1200 to 4800 and haven't seen any noticeable change in movement speed.

I'm running a geared extruder (Titan) and haven't really been able to find any information on tuning extruder jerk and acceleration so I'm not entirely sure what'd be considered reasonable or safe, but I've been using values of 1000 for accel and 1200 for jerk for quite awhile without any issues.

I'm running a delta with a fairly long bowden and pressure advance seems like something that would be advantageous to have, if I can figure out how to get it dialed in without slowing down movement too much. However at this point I'm not really sure where to look. Any suggestions would be welcome. I'm on firmware version 1.18.

@T3P3Tony:

cchaffee, ignore my previous comment, Tim is all over this.

Great, thanks guys. I will stand by and await further instructions.

@dc42:

I think it's time for you to ask your supplier for a replacement under warranty.

When I inquired with the supplier, they weren't sure about the warranty or replacement policy and had sent a note to T3P3. If you can point me to an official warranty policy that'd be appreciated.

I've already purchased a replacement board and had it overnighted, as I had not heard back yet on my inquiry with the supplier and needed to get the machine back up and running. Since we weren't able to identify the cause of the failure, I still assume it could've been something I did, in which case I have no problem with paying for a replacement. Either way, I'd be happy to ship my dead board back for analysis if it might reveal the cause or help improve future products.

Yes I had the same thought last night so I tried another one, same result.

Just to confirm, the micro is not getting warm. The wifi module does, however, get quite warm (I don't recall whether or not this was the case before). I also re-checked the Erase then Reset procedure, and that is a no-go. At this point I'm just going to get a new board on order tomorrow as I need to get the machine back up and running. Still, I'd feel a lot better about putting in the replacement if I knew exactly what happened to this one.

The LED's are correctly lit - the 3.3v and 5v are lit in addition to the two LEDs directly on either side of the USB connector. The only thing I noticed getting warm to the touch was the wifi module, but I'll be able to verify that again in a couple of hours.

@dc42:

Have you read https://duet3d.com/wiki/What_to_do_if_your_Duet_or_Duet_WiFi_won%27t_respond ?

Yes, I have gone through all of those steps. I will try the last step one more time this evening, but I'm fairly certain I did hold down the erase button for a few seconds followed by a reset at some point while I was troubleshooting yesterday.

Unfortunately, yes. This seems to have no effect.

I would love to know what happened to the board. I've checked and rechecked my wiring. The board has been running in this machine for several months with no real issues. This morning I installed a new extruder and stepper, but the machine was actually running fine afterward and was all closed up at when it died. I had run through a few calibration runs with the new extruder and was getting ready to try a test print when it died.

Yeah, so this doesn't work since the USB device isn't being recognized. I've tried on two different machines.

Thanks, I'll give it a try and report back.

Nope. I've tried the reset button (not the erase button), it seems to do absolutely nothing. It doesn't show up as a USB device and there is no sound when I plug it in.

It seems my Duet Wifi has decided to give up the ghost. The PanelDue is no longer able to connect to it and I'm not able to connect to it over USB or Wifi. I've disconnected everything from the board, pulled it out of the machine and powered it via USB and still can't get any response from it. The two LEDs on either side of the usb connector light up solid, as do the 3.3v and 5v ones. I've checked the SD card, it's ok. I've commented out wifi, per the instructions on the wiki. Is there anything else I should try? How do I go about getting a replacement?