Hi!,
Is there a way, or with the mew 3.01 features will there be a way to calculate the extra prime amount from the time between retract and unretract? It would make it possible to counteract the oozing during travel, and eliminate the blobs when there are multiple retracts/unretracts concentrated over a small area. Maybe something like the tool change macro?
Thanks,
Denes.
@dc42
Trying to update from :
Board: Duet WiFi 1.02 or later
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 WiFi/Ethernet 3.0RC1 (2019-12-16b8)
Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.23
Duet Web Control 2.0.4
to this release, but I get:
"Error: In-application programming binary "Duet2CombinedIAP.bin" not found".
I can see the thread https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13401/cant-change-from-v3-0-to-v2-05-missing-file
So I added "Duet2CombinedIAP.bin" from 3.0RC1 is this OK? is this normal? If so, could you please add the "compatible IAP" to the release notes? Or is this a one time thing and we don't have to worry about it anymore?
Thanks!
Current tool position could be nice, During multi-hotend, pressure advance and retraction calibration it would allow printing multiple lines / objects with different offsets, and then manually jogging the head to the correct one and selecting that.
I think that E3D guys already requested this feature a few months back.
Also, floor, ceil, round? functions would be useful.
@deckingman
Thanks for your reply!
Since I changed my old aluminum block to a wew cartridge type copper one, I need to buy a reliable cartridge. I wanted to bear down on the quality side, I just could not imagine why do people buy the pt100 when it has many problems (like the one You experienced) and it needs extra cabling and hardware, whereas they could just go for the pt1000.
Since a quality cartridge thermistor (with known values...) is comparable in price with a pt1000, I decided on the later one, and just wanted some comfirmation. Thanks everyone for the valuable info!
It's probably caused by a large thermal mass, like a copper or brass block instead of the usual aluminum.
I had the same problem when I switched to copper block, the PID autotune solved the issue for me:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control
Thanks @dc42 !
But I surmise they are still way better then thermistors, right?
So, I'd like to ask for a piece of your experience ... Why do everyone go for a pt100 sensor despite the additional cabling, daughterboard, etc. instead of a pt1000 which is 2wire and natively supported?
I looked at comparisons and cewed threw multiple related topics around the net, but I could not find the reason. What am I missing?
@sniper23 If you drive an 50W 12V heater from 24V then it's actually 200W. Since you draw 8.3A from a circuit not designed to handle that (according to this 6.7A max: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/1925/max-hot-end-heater-current/7) you can blow the mosfet easy. If you do that, or the duet fw freezes for any reason, then you'll probably have a fire on your hands caused by molten aluminum dripping on your printed part and other stuff. So, !!please!! stop using it and find out what you're dealing with before that happens!
I agree, this would be useful!
@skayred Probably not ... maybe if you have many perimiters, but unlikely
I think your heatbreak is clogging up (maybe too much retraction, or not enough radiator cooling?), then the overwhelming force of the bondtech breaks threw the clog, releasing all the material at once.
I had the same issue with my bowden setup (therefore high retraction). I managed to solve it with a stronger (pressure oriented) radiator fan and a titanium heatbreak which I then polished internally with a drill, a fair amount of (thread / yarn?) and some whitening tootpaste ...so it was a hard issue 
Hi @skayred !
It's hard to see from this angle, but it seems to me that your part is solid?
If so, any (even a very very very slight amount) of over-extrusion can cause effects like this, because there is no other place the excess material can go but off the side of the part (or build up on top and cause the head to eventually collide with it) Plus as DC said maybe each layer is printed in different direction, and there you have it.
If the part is indeed solid, then please try to print it not 100% solid, or decrease the extrusion factor a few percent (10% to be sure for the test) and show us the results
@dc42 I have a simmilar experience but with the molex on the top side of the smart effector. I've been fighting with it since day one, the continuous movement causing jumps on temp readings. I've been planning to start a thread about it: I'd like to replace the connector alltogether, and was courious what would you recommend? (As I understand micro-fit has a different pin distance, so I can't use that)
If you put two of the same prints next to eachother, do the lines match up?
The effect seems like much less pronounced compared to the first photo you posted.
I think you are quite right, if the outer wall is perfect and the internal wall has problems, than this points to the corexy components.
What happens if you slow down or spead up the print?
Does the printer frame vibrate, or deform on a fast move?
If the head is held in place by the motors and you grab and wiggle the nozzle, can you feal any play or give in the kinematics?
Are the belts tight?
Are all the idlers and most importantly the !!! pulleys on the steppers !!! tight?
is the mechanics really free to move? If you remove the belts, and just give a gentle nudge sideways does the head slide freely in both X and Y direction?
!!! Also, I would disassemble bondtech, if the gear on the motor, or the filament grabber ... thing ... (someone help me out? :)) on the gear driven drive shaft is loose it can cause unexpected and hard to track down results.
I'm not certain what am I seeing on the image you posted:
Are those lines shifts in X Y or diagonal direction, or the wall thinckness chnages?
I'm quite certain that it;s not an X or Y shift, and in a coreXY setup it's quite unlikely that the changes occur only every N layer (because there is a certain number of layers one way then something happens, and again N layers are the other way and this repeats again and again) So I would discount the coreXY part and would investigate extrusion (clean the nozzle too) and the bed (Z).
@Veti
Thought about the same thing, but the thread title is motor phase B may be disconnected reported by driver(s) 3 which probably procludes the possibility of a filament jam. Or I misunderstood something
What you're describing (rambling, clicking, not turning) is a tell tale sign of missed steps, which can be caused by disconnected phases.
You mentioned a cable swap, which is a good start, but this could be a contact error on the motor itself for example.
If you use a motor with somekind of connector on it, maybe that connector is faulty, or if the motor has leads maybe one of those are broken.
unlikely, but if the cable is loose (for ex. not ziptied), than it can also be a broken connector on the duet itself revealed only when the cable is at a certain position, flexing the connector a certain way
If I were you, I would check everything: Connectors, cables, motor, etc. Try to reproduce the error, and start flexing connectors and stuff
M143 was not (officially) supported in beta 11 (according to the changelog and the upgrade guide)
Beta 12 does not specify this limitiation, but does not list the addition of support in the changelog either.
So my question is, does beta 12 support M143?
Machine is connected through ethernet to a desktop with wifi connetion and through usb cable.
If you are using separate interfaces (wifi & eth) on your PC to connect to your home network and duet, than you have a few options:
A You set up somekind of bridge on those interfaces, and use the bridge interface as your interface to the network (assign ip to it etc.)
B You set up different subnets on the different interfaces (For ex. 192.168.1.X and 192.168.2.X both with a subnet of 24 (255.255.255.0))
C you set up your route table manually and specify that your duet's ip should be looked up on the eth interface
Otherwise your computer will not know which interface whould be used to reach the duet (will not know where to route the ip packets)
I hope this makes sense, if not, ask away, I'm happy to help
@fma
What kind of pump are you using?
pressure? airflow?
How does it work out for you?
What materials do tou print?
Thanks
Denes.