I just converted my CR-10S which is just a bigger version of the CR-10. Still nailing down some little things but it's pretty straightforward, if a bit of work.
For the Bed - they used a standard thermistor on it, it's not a PT100 (unless it's a brand new machine and they did something weird recently). As @dc42 says, use the standard thermistor, the Configuration tool default setting works fine.
If you plan on doing real high temp stuff like nylon or Polycarbonate, etc. you might replace the thermistor in the hotend with a PT100 or PT1000. The PT100 is more accurate but more of a PITA as it requires an amplifier board (sensor has very low signal) and really should be wired with a 4 wire shielded cable rather than the current 2 wires you have.
The reason for the change is the standard thermistor doesn't really have the accuracy at those high temps, it's at the end of it's range. It's a bit of a safety issue as well, but again, only if you plan real high temp stuff over about 260°C.
I went with the PT1000 as it's almost as good as the PT100 but plug and play, especially if you go with a Maestro board, it's setup for it.
The configuration part is the tricky part as the G-Code setup is pretty different than Marlin, but it makes a lot of sense and it really flexible, but be prepared to learn. 😉
I agree with @genghisnico13 - take the time to put some thermal compound on that MOSFET.
Octoprint - I imagine you can use it still, but I think you might take a look at Duet Web Control, it's how most people control it. Here's a link to the Manual: DWC
I have all the motor info if you get stuck when configuring, and there's a bunch of other Creality people hanging around here.
The screen - You can also use a tablet or laptop for Duet Web Control.
It will be an adventure, but you'll have a big smile when you get it running, it's head and shoulders above the Marlin setup.