You will want to put a surface like buildtak, Matte black PEI Or pick up some Matte black High temp oven/grill paint from the hardware store and paint the bed surface. Anything to reflective or clear will make the sensor act crazy. It would also cause the sensor to work fine one minute and be crazy the next.

Also can you post your config.g and bed.g files.

home your printer so the hot end is far away from the surface, then look at the sensor in the web interface it should read 0 or close to. If it doesn't check to make sure there is nothing stock on the LED's actually make sure they are still there. I had a part collision and it knocked them off the board. Also check your wiring if for some reason the plug is on backwards it will read triggered all the time. If it does read zero check your bed surface, matte black is the best.

Thanks, You might want to ad this to the Wiki page for setting up the Z probe.

I need to run my printer so I am going to put my WiFi board back in but I will make a bench test for it and keep trying things.

Would it be worth the time if I completely erased the board and re-flashed it via usb?

Here is my home all file. When homing they go in order Z,X,Y for my main move and for fine adjustment they go reversed.
; homeall.g
; called to home all axes
;

; Relative positioning ; uncomment this line to lift the nozzle after homing
G91
; Course home Z
G1 Z725 F2500 S1
; Course home X
G1 X-675 F8000 S1
; Course home Y
G1 Y675 F8000 S1

; Move away from the endstops
G1 X5 Y-5 F400
G1 Z-5 F400

; Fine home X
G1 X-10 F400 S1
; Fine home Y
G1 Y10 F400 S1
;fine home Z
G1 Z10 f400 S1

; Absolute positioning
G90

I can ship you the board if you want.

It moves to towards the switch. But they should not be moving at all. This is why I link it is the board. With my WiFi board the printer runs perfect. If I bypass the external drivers and the encoder and run them from the main board they operate as intended. It is only when using the breakout board for external drivers.

Thank you!!!