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    Best posts made by mihaitintea

    • RE: Need help : MagBalls+Smart-Effector for AC LinearKosselPlus

      I searched [ the Internet] for the 3D CAD model for the AnyCubic Kossel Linear Plus frame - the #1 important thing for me was keeping unmodified the bed diameter. The #2nd important thing was the type of the tower rails - specifically, their thickness. You have to decide what you should keep [inherit] from the old printer when creating a new printer.
      Also you must find online the CAD models for the Delta Smart Effector.

      Using a CAD program to edit ensemble frame+effector, I kept the following elements as unmodifiable :
      - the bed diameter = 240 mm, as I absolutely did not want to order a new heated bed -- that was inherited from the Kossel Plus printer -- that is important since such a bed is kinda hard to find -- well, maybe not that hard if you are willing to wait for another 2-ish months of waiting for the Chinese guys to ship 🙂
      - the tower rails -- those are the [noname] MGN12H rails that came with the Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus printer -- they are kinda easier to find from a retailer closer to you, not necessarily China only.

      Eventually I designed my own custom frame using custom 2060 extruded aluminium frames for the towers. That required custom-designed delta corners, as I wanted to keep my 240mm bed.

      That is an chicken-and-egg problem.

      I had to keep alive and running the original Chinese Kossel printer to print all the necessary parts, until I was sure that I am well beyond the no-going-back point. Because once I decide to dismantle the Chinese Kossel printer, I cannot be sure, not in 1000 lives, that reassembling it would result in something that would print 1+1=2. Because China. So, the printer upgrade process is one-way.

      OK so using the CAD program I calculated that I need 288.14 mm Haydn arms.

      Then I went shopping online for such custom-sized Haydn arms.

      Most offers I've seen online were for pre-built 360 mm Haydn arms, but that was not good for me because:

      • arms longer than 288.14 mm will worsen my delta printer precision
      • also arms longer than 288.14 mm will lower my printable height too much, should I have towers' height restrictions;
      • arms shorter that 288.14 mm will shorten my printable diameter too much below 240 mm.

      So if you are into building your custom delta, you have to find a way to get precise-built rods. Haydn arms are precise-built. My 6 Haydn arms were shipped like so:

      • 4 arms of 288.14 mm
      • 2 arms of 288.15 mm

      So 0.01 mm difference, that is really close to perfection.

      If I would've tried to build my custom arms, chances are that I would've made mistakes that would've been led me to rebuilding the arms again and again -- eventually leading to an overall cost much greater than what I would accept.

      The original Duet Delta Smart Effector ships with and e3d v6 0.4 mm hotend.

      The migration path from the e3d v6 to a e3d volcano is easy. You keep the Duet Delta Smart Effector PCB. You just have to sacrifice 1-ish centimeter reduction in printing height.

      My final configuration is as follows:

      • original 240 mm heated bed inherited from Anycubic Kossel Plus printer
      • custom frame with custom 3d-printed delta corners
      • custom-length Haydn arms (4 x 288.14 mm + 2 x 288.15 mm)
      • Two Duet Delta Smart Effector: a) first one for e3d v6 0.4 mm hotend, and b) second one with e3d volcano 0.8 mm.
      • Duet 3D wifi motherboard
      • Duetx5 (I want to add separate dedicated flying extruders for each of my two hotends)

      Regards

      posted in My Duet controlled machine
      mihaitinteaundefined
      mihaitintea
    • RE: Alternative to Haydn's

      My 2 cents: if you try to build the rods yourself and do not obtain quality and precision then you will be tempted to try again maybe once or twice, eventually the total cost may be bigger than buying Haydn's in the first place. Plus the wasted time.

      Same if you purchase cheaper noname rods.

      Haydn rods happen to be something that many users purchased and then never complained about quality/precision, that tells that you can't go wrong with Haydn.

      My Haydns are within 0.01 mm difference, that says a lot.

      Unless you plan buying Haydn rods every week, the expense is somehow a one-time-and-never-have-to-do-it-again thing, so the price tag is well justified.

      Regards

      posted in General Discussion
      mihaitinteaundefined
      mihaitintea
    • RE: ferruled connectors

      Dear Sir,

      Thank you so much for the detailed explanation. That kind of knowledge is either gathered from advice as you provided (truly kindly and for free), or hard-learned through -- hopefully not ! -- unfortunate experiences. Fire risk is something that should be taken seriously and thoroughly adviced by whoever is selling whatever may expose buyers to it -- including Amp-consuming devices such as 3D printers.

      Many thanks and wish you the best.

      Truly yours
      Mihai

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
      mihaitinteaundefined
      mihaitintea