Topics created by mihaitintea

Are you sure that you have selected a tool?

@Dugee said in Help on "Calibrating_a_delta_printer" wiki:

e you

Helo,

Please let me rummage those last several posts for about 24 hours, until I am confident I understood them correctly, then I will come back to this forum with feedback. Thank you so much for input !

Truly yours

@mihaitintea

With the setup you describe you don't need to edit config.g between each change. I would setup one of the extruders as tool 0 and the other as tool 1 and then just select T0 or T1 as you need.

I think cura can be configurered with multiple tools, and then just select 1 specific tool for the whole print, depending which hotend you want to use.

Define the tools as shown here: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M563_Define_or_remove_a_tool

You should be able to connect the smart effect to the E0 or E1 endstop and configure it as a simple switch, however you will then not be able to update the sensitivity of the smart effector. it is unlikely you will need to do this, and if you do you can set it using the z probe port and then swap back to the endstop. Think of the smart effector connected to the endstop as a simple switch: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_Microswitch

the only bit that will require a bit of customising is using a different Z probe for each tool. Possibly setup a macro to sun the Z probe setup lines you would notmally have in config.g for the other tool as part of your manual tool change.

@mihaitintea said in H1 (extruder) fault after power on:

Since I assume this (turning off the mains power in a hurry) is not something I should as a habit,

the reason why you should not be doing that is because it could clog up the hotend.

the pt100 sensor should not be affected by a main power off.

the pt100 sensor is prone to interference. see if you are running power cables close to the pt100 cables.

@dc42 Hello

I applied option C, I just hope I identified correctly the GND on the PT100 daughterboard, please can you confirm from the picture below ?

0_1566475515591_Duet+PT100+Daughter+Board.jpg

Thank you

@mihaitintea said in bed.g - XY points well outside the delta triangle:

Hello Mr DC42,

I understand. I have Hayden Magball rods with stickers saying each rod's length.

Also I followed your recommendation from topic

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/11243/delta-x-and-y-head-position-change-during-z-autocalibration/5

and I specified one single rod length in the M665 L parameter (the average length as resulted from the equation 4288.14+2288.15=288.143), waiting for the 2.04RC1 firmware which can handle correctly three rod lenghts in M665 L parameter.

And I chose a 6-factor in the bed.g file, since the manufacturer of my Hayden rods gave me the rods with stickers on it. I hope this is the correct way to do things, please can you just give me a quick "yes" or "no" on this.

Thank you,
Mihai

Yes.

@mihaitintea said in Delta X and Y head position change during Z autocalibration:

Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, deviation before 0.072 after 0.034
Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, deviation before 3.062 after 0.034
Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, deviation before 1.234 after 0.032

There is a bug in firmware 2.03 whereby if the firmware updates the delta radius or the rod length, it adjusts the homed height incorrectly. I think that is what is happening in your case, and explains why the deviation went up from 1.234mm to 3.062mm before coming down again. This bug is fixed in the forthcoming 2.04RC1.

Also note that any of the four home buttons (ALL, X, Y, Z) will have the same result on a Delta... all three towers will home... the separation of buttons is really for Cartesian printers.

@mihaitintea you do not need fibreglass insulated wire for connecting the smart effector to the Duet. Select wire that is suitable for flexing with motion (multicore, the higher the number of cores the better) and can carry the current required. The current required can be calculated from the power of the heater cartridge and the voltage you intend to use. So for example if you are using a "standard" e3d v6 heater cartridge of 30W at 24V then P=IV, you have a current of 1.25A max so AWG 24 or 22 would be a good choice.

You can use thinner wire for the fans, thermistor and probe connections.

@dc42 said in Delta smart effector+Haydn Magballs carriage mount:

Or just loosen the grub screw on the motor pulley and move the pulley along the shaft a bit.

unfortunatly on the AKL+ there is no room to move the pulley back without the dampener

Using a 4-wire connection between the Smart Effector and the Duet is beneficial because with a 4-wire connection, the resistance of the cable between the Smart Effector and the daughter board don't affect the reading. Neither does the resistance of the two connectors at the end of the cable.

Using a 4-wire PT100 connected to the Smart Effector instead of 2-wire has very little additional advantage, because the PT100 wires can be very short - they need only be long enough to reach the Smart Effector.

So I suggest you connect your 2-wire PT100 to the Smart Effector, and use a 4-wire connection from the Smart Effector to the Duet. I don't know any suppliers of 4-wire 3mm diameter PT100 sensors short enough to fit the heater block.

@deckingman I stand corrected! 🙂