@gallaghersart Ran into the same issue and switched to 3mm ID 4mm OD PTFE tube and it was resolved. Found this eBay listing which was a better value and the seller will combine orders for longer lengths.
The next step is to add a feeder extruder to the filament box but not sure it's necessary.
I've found the pullies can be easily deformed by over-tightening the grub screws. If you have a new pulley, try installing it while paying close attention to the amount of force on the grub screws.
@strips Looks much better. Glad I could help.
@T3P3Tony
Thank you, that worked. I believe the issue was that no magnet was detected. Mounted the board in it's proper location (next to the magnet) and it reported v3. With it just plugged and hanging in it reported v1. This is a Duet3 no SBC on v3.1.1. Thanks again.
@T3P3Tony Not sure if you saw the last post but would like to get this machine running again. Thanks!
ABS not needing cooling is actually a common misconception. It does need part cooling for small prints with layer times that do not allow the print to cool enough before starting the next layer. It's also often necessary on overhangs and bridges.
A simple resolution to increase the later time is to add a second or third item to be printed. This helps quite a bit with the issue at Z seam, but this will not help with overhangs.
The only option I am aware of to resolve both the Z seam and overhang issue is to increase the ambient temperature of the build area (by using an enclosure) and use a cooling fan. It can be as simple as placing a cardboard box over the entire printer while printing. Please be careful with this since cardboard is flammable. Another good option for an enclosure is a small photo cube to enclose the printer. Here is an example.
@T3P3Tony
I have three and they all were purchased late 2019. This particular one was purchased November 16, 2019 from Filastruder. They all say 1.7 but I believe they are 1.7a.
@strips
To me, it looks like your filament does like higher temperatures but is in desperate need of part cooling. 240 and 245 look good and would be correct if the filament is true ABS.
There are some concerns such as over extrusion and burnt filament at the layer change. Would recommend increasing your retraction distance and or trying negative restart for retraction. ABS tends to need a little more retraction since it oozes and flows out the hotend a little easier.
@T3P3Tony
Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately that firmware file also reports as v1. Not sure if this makes a difference or not but Release 44a and the file you uploaded are both 32,204 bytes.
Looks a lot better!
There are still overhang issues and the Z face still shows signs of over extrusion above and below the Z.
Looks like you have an ABS blend that does not require higher temperatures or your extruder temperature might not be accurate. Would recommend trying to lower the temp a little more. Try printing a cube at 215 and another at 210 to see how the overhangs and over extrusion looks.
PS In my experience, having to use coasting is a sign of over extrusion.
@T3P3Tony @dc42 Can you help with this? Did I do something wrong or was v1 firmware posted by mistake?
I would recommend starting over and checking the basics. The picture of the Z side from your first post has clear signs of over extrusion, most likely due to too high of a hotend temp. This could also be e-steps or extrusion multiplier, but I would start with lowering the hotend temp.
I found it impossible to print ABS without an enclosure. Eventually built a temperature controlled enclosure that holds a steady 65c and enabled part cooling, using a 5015 fan at 25%. Everyone says no cooling for ABS but it was necessary. There clear overhang issues in the X and Y pics of your last post that point to heat issues (too high of a hotend temp and or no part cooling).
It could also be an issue with the filament. ABS can be tricky and there are major differences between the brands. I've had the best luck with IC3D ABS. With IC3D ABS, I print at 245c but many manufacturers use additives that lower the temp to 220.
Once you get the over extrusion sorted, then move to adjusting pressure advance.
@T3P3Tony
Followed the steps to program the MFM and the ELF software file in the release-44a directory on github is v1. This is the URL of the file https://github.com/Duet3D/MagneticFilamentMonitor/raw/master/Release-44a/FilamentSensor.elf.
As you can see in the screenshot below, it was v2 before uploading and is now v1. Did I do something improperly? Or is there a link for v3?
Here is the output from avrdude when uploading the file
C:\avrdude>avrdude.exe -pt44 -cusbtiny -Uflash:w:FilamentSensor.elf:e
avrdude.exe: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s
avrdude.exe: Device signature = 0x1e9207 (probably t44)
avrdude.exe: NOTE: "flash" memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude.exe: erasing chip
avrdude.exe: reading input file "FilamentSensor.elf"
avrdude.exe: writing flash (1826 bytes):
Writing | ################################################## | 100% 1.41s
avrdude.exe: 1826 bytes of flash written
avrdude.exe: verifying flash memory against FilamentSensor.elf:
avrdude.exe: load data flash data from input file FilamentSensor.elf:
avrdude.exe: input file FilamentSensor.elf contains 1826 bytes
avrdude.exe: reading on-chip flash data:
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 1.14s
avrdude.exe: verifying ...
avrdude.exe: 1826 bytes of flash verified
avrdude.exe: safemode: Fuses OK (E:FF, H:DF, L:E2)
avrdude.exe done. Thank you.
Also, receiving the following error when setting the fuses. Not sure if this is related. Are additional files needed to set the fuses?
C:\avrdude>avrdude.exe -p t44 -c usbtiny -U lfuse_w_0xe2_m -U hfuse_w_0xdf_m -U efuse_w_0xff_m
avrdude.exe: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions
Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s
avrdude.exe: Device signature = 0x1e9207 (probably t44)
avrdude.exe: NOTE: "flash" memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude.exe: erasing chip
avrdude.exe: reading input file "lfuse_w_0xe2_m"
avrdude.exe: error opening lfuse_w_0xe2_m: No such file or directory
avrdude.exe: can't determine file format for lfuse_w_0xe2_m, specify explicitly
avrdude.exe: read from file 'lfuse_w_0xe2_m' failed
avrdude.exe: safemode: Fuses OK (E:FF, H:DF, L:E2)
avrdude.exe done. Thank you.
Thanks for your help.
@brotherchris Interesting results with the extrusion width test and it might indicate an issue with the extruder gears. Would be easier to see the diagonal artifacts change if you can try multiple extrusion widths in a single, single-walled print. Simplify3d can do this easily, not sure if the others can. I find it particularly useful to isolate an extrusion issue by printing a cylinder with no top or bottom since there are no retractions or start-stop points.
Looks like you could have a hotend temperature issue. Did you also change the thermistor? If so, verify your thermistor settings are correct.
Chris, fan of your videos and appreciate your contributions to the community.
One question, can you do a single wall test with varying line widths? For instance, 0 to 9.8mm at .4 mm width, 10 to 19.8 .42mm width, etc. In the past, I’ve found vertical or diagonal lines like this caused by inconsistent extrusion and can point to an issue with your extruder. If you perform a single wall test with extrusion parameters that vary at different heights and the angle of the diagonal lines changes, there could be an issue with inconsistent extrusion.
The key is to see if the angle of the diagonal line artifacts changes with varying extrusion parameters.
I have three of the magnetic filament monitors and they also report over extrusion occasionally. From what I can tell, they most often report over extrusion on very short infill patterns. All three are version 2.0 and I would like to update them to 3.0 to see if this helps.
My question, is there a wiring diagram and STL for the pogo pins?
@fcwilt
That’s why I used that command. Pulled that command from another macro and couldn’t remember why it was created. It’s used to move some amount from the current position without needing to bounce back and forth from absolute to relative and back to absolute positioning.
A vase mode print is often a good test since it focuses more on printer hardware because it doesn’t utilize retractions and eliminates retraction tuning as a possible issue. It also makes it very easy to see repeating patterns that would indicate an extruder issue.
@Kolbi looks good! Is that SLS or MJF printed?