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    npm1

    @npm1

    Old::::OB i3 style printer with the DuetWifi, familiar with programming and compiling code for Linux, building computers, and Computer Graphics(more Creative, than DIY Hobbyists). Duetwifi, generic Extruder, with E3d v6, 220*220 heated bed.
    My latest and greatest venture into 3d printing is a dedicated cabinet built from a wardrobe and an ender 5 style 3d printer with aluminum fixtures. Build volume 400(z)*315(Y&X), the bed is AC heated, and the frame is similar to the layerfused x301

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    Best posts made by npm1

    • 3d printer junk and parts

      Hia,
      Over the 3-4 years of my in time 3d printing, I have accumilated over £4000s worth of junk. This is not limited to the following:

       fans both 12v and 24v, of the 4040,3030,2020(Sizes)
      
       thermistors(no name)
      
       heater cartridges(both 12v, 24v, 90degree angle ones, at various wattage)
      
      hex/allen keys
      
      loose 3d printed brackets and parts
      
      wires of varying awg
      
      bolts
      
      nuts of varying sizes
      
      Tnuts mostly m5
      
      Slide in Tnuts
      
      bearings
      
      dc connectors
      
      dupont wires
      
      hotends including a cloned mosquito, and e3d heatsinks
      
      Plenty of e3d Nozzles
      
      Plenty of non ratchet spanners
      
      drill bits
      
      wood screws
      
      sensors i.e. the pinda style probes both 5vs and standard and of varying sizes so the 8mm 12mm and 18mm.
      
      Bltouch type clones
      
      Vslot extrusions of varying sizes
      
      
      
      

      You probably get the idea, and its badly organised, with no luck in digging in nicely to find what is need...

      Your opinion is need to help me organise this space, as I am planning to buy the IKEA Kitchen Cabinet

      The compartment where the microwave goes, will be used to enclose the externals i.e. power supply, Duet, din rail wiring system, SSR, and various other components; for the for hotswappable DIY 3d Printer of 400x400x315 size

      The DIY printer is a ender 5 style clone, in the body of a Layerfused x301.

      The other compartment will include my Ender 3 clone, which I am not too bothered enclosing, but would after buying this kitchen cabinet, like the idea of a all in one station/ on stop location for my 3d printers.

      I will just to be safe be extending the cables for the Ender 3 with a long loom of 20AWG, to have the electronics and power supply(DC wiring will be using 16AWG), be attached within the same space as the rest of the wiring and electronics of the other printer.

      The cover to the microwave section/enclosure would be an old laptop dedicated to the Duet web Control and Cura. So I would be using Opera as the web browser due to how solid the connection is with DWC. Using a very light linux distro etc.

      So long story short, other than the filament itself which will be held in one of the shelves.

      Whats necessities do I need, or should I atleast replace the spanners and hex/allens with a ratchet spanner set in a hard case and hex/allen key in a hard.

      How often after PID tuning has the heater cartidge and thermistor needed changing.

      How often and frequent should fans be changed, is it worth having spares, when my hotend is consistently an E3d with copper(heat block), titanium(heat break), and a hardend nozzle, as well as the Microswiss hotend.

      Might consider the upgrade to the afterburner style extruder/hotend for the DIY printer but this is the afterburner with the voron Bondtech LGX extruder.

      Should spare wiring be kept or purchased as needed.

      So essentially, I am looking for a massive overhall, of my setup in order to organise and declutter the junk, most importantly should I purchase the spares as of when something breaks down.

      You can probably tell, that I've become an addict to this hobby, and am not slowing down any time soon.

      My journey started with the Anet A8 which was overwhelming and exciting to see its first moves, i then broke my ABL holder which resulted in me taking the first step to purchase a hot glue gun, to hold it together, and start of my upgrades the first upgrade was the Duet, and have since purchased 2 boards one of them burnt and now more recently have purchased the Fly E3 RFF edition.

      What a journey, and will defenitelly be excited for your assistance in this massive overhual ....

      posted in General Discussion
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    • RE: Corexy X moves back and y moves across

      All sorted now with working bltouch

      I realised that after a while y axis driver was creating alot of problems so am now using E1 for y instead....

      Thanks for all the help

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • Ender 3 v2 Clone/ Aquila

      Hia,
      I not sure of the best place for providing my RRF firmware config, so your more than welcome to move it. Please use at your own risk.

      The board used is: a fly e3 rrf edition.
      The bed is the classic glass, with a whamBam PEX sheet stuck to it.
      Bltouch is mounted using the ender 3 standard mount, and the x carriage for the printer is a Mod back plate with wholes for MGN12 rail, standard ender 3 spaced v slot wheels, and various holes for the various hotends including stock and hemera, and direct drive.

      My x carriage has a cloned micro swiss hotend, with the standard fan shroud and bltouch setup.

      My extruder is a bmg cloned dual drive extruder.

      My Y axis other than the glass and whambam sheet is the standard setup.

      My Z axis is using anti-backlash nuts with the spring, it is a dual z axis setup and the lead screws terminate in a bearing block. The leads screws are attached to the motor via springy type coupler. May upgrade to the spider coupler at a later stage.

      Potential upgrades for this machine would be dual MGN12 rails for the z Axis and y axis, and the extruder/hotend assembly may be converted to the afterburner with stock probe.

      Knowing that my back plate for the X axis already supports mgn12 rails, it may remain bowden.

      The config files are as follows:

      posted in General Discussion
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    Latest posts made by npm1

    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      thanks for your efforts

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      I'm just gonna call it a day, may use an optical setup it with one of those allen keys

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      @gloomyandy i knoq that the 5v cable is correctly connected ill switch the cables around and confirm to you shortly

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      @gloomyandy the only thing i can think of is to switch the cables on the zstop cables around

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      @gloomyandy endstop works with zero issues with everything triggered correctly

      M119
      

      Endstops - X: at min stop, Y: at min stop, Z: at min stop, Z probe: at min stop
      2/25/2022, 9:38:20 PM g31
      Z probe 0: current reading 0, threshold 500, trigger height 2.500, offsets X0.0 Y0.0
      2/25/2022, 9:38:10 PM m119
      Endstops - X: at min stop, Y: at min stop, Z: not stopped, Z probe: not stopped

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      will marlin be easier

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      Electronics
      Diagnostics
      Board: fly_E3 (STMWiFi)
      Firmware: RepRapFirmware for STM32F4 based Boards 3.3RC2+1_1 (2021-05-13)
      Duet WiFi Server Version: 1.26-01S-D

      Note: You can install updates on the System page.

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      shall i update the firmware

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      @gloomyandy have I blown something on the board

      posted in STM
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    • RE: npn 5v fly rrf e3

      @gloomyandy still no changes, the only thing that change is the z probe value being 1000 instead of zero

      posted in STM
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