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    Posts made by ov_darkness

    • Emergency relays and e-stop stop switch

      Hi,
      I've started to build my new machine.
      It will be powered from e phase circuit.
      L1 - bed heater (2.4kW-3kW) via SSR
      L2 - chamber heater (2kW-2.5kW) via SSR
      L3 - electronics and mechanics.

      What I want to do:

      1. Have a mechanical disconnect (e-stop switch) that will allow me to stop the print in case of emergency (my burns from my accident with Zortrax M300 Plus are still healing).
      2. I want my Duet to NOT be powered off by e-stop, but I want it to cut the power to motors and heaters.
      3. I want my printer to enter pause (configurable) when door is opened
      4. I want my printer not to start the job unless all doors are closed and locked.

      How to configure this?
      I understand that I need safety relay, e-stop switch and some macro on duet?

      Can I do this on Duet 2 or should I go for Duet 3?

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Connecting 24VDC controlled SSR to Duet 3 6HC with 48VDCin

      @dc42
      Thank you, that's actually a lot of options!
      The power on threshold is 4V for this SSR.
      Maximum power draw is 0.6W

      As I'll need 3HC board nevertheless, is it possible to run X and Y motors from 48V powered 3HC and use 6HC with 24V for the rest?
      I'd not have the issue then, and also powering 12/24VDC outputs as fans and LED's would be a lot easier.

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Connecting 24VDC controlled SSR to Duet 3 6HC with 48VDCin

      @jay_s_uk
      As overcomplicated as my idea might seem, I'd love to keep it as simple as possible 😉

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Connecting 24VDC controlled SSR to Duet 3 6HC with 48VDCin

      @jay_s_uk It's a solution, but there are only six fan outputs available.
      If I take two for SSR's, and I have some fans and WC pump and CPAP blower to control, I'll run out of outputs very quickly.

      Alternative solution: I can buy 3HC board and power it with 48VDC (I need 48VDC only for X and Y motors), and power 6HC with 24VDC. This will be complicated and expensive, but probably doable (if you can run CoreXY with the accessory board without a problem and you can connect 24V and 48V powered boards without problems).

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • Connecting 24VDC controlled SSR to Duet 3 6HC with 48VDCin

      Hi,

      I'm looking for a solution to a problem:
      I'm building a powerful machine. Bed heaters will be 2.4kW, so I had no choice but to use an SSR.
      A second similarly powered heater will be used to heat up the chamber, so 2nd SSR will be needed.
      They will be powered from separate 230V AC phases.
      All of the electronics will be powered from the 3rd phase.
      Most SSR's are controlled by either 24VDC or 4-32VDC, but I plan to power Duet 3 with 48VDC.

      Can this be done, or should I buy (much more expensive) SSR's that can accept 48VDC?
      Or maybe should I use other outputs for that?
      Which ones?

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: "Mainboard 6HC" with 48V and "Expansion 3HC" with 24V?

      @jay_s_uk
      Wait... You can power 6HC with 48V?!

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Heater fault when trying to enable tool

      @phaedrux I've made PID tuning and now everything is perfect. At least in static tests.
      When I get the rest of the parts, I'll test it in print, but looks like for now all of my issues have been resolved. Thanks! 🙂

      BTW a lot has changed since I last configured the Duet machine (about 2-3 years ago).
      The configuration has gotten much more complicated, but also very very powerful.
      I love it!

      posted in Tuning and tweaking
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    • RE: Heater fault when trying to enable tool

      @Phaedrux I've resettled my TC and heater and it looks like one of the heat block screws was the culprit. I'm reluctant to run the printer without it though - the heater and/or TC might come off the block during print.
      I'm now running M303 and it looks okay.
      I only have an issue now with the print bed - it faults because of expected temperature rise is too low, but I'm assuming it can be modified in config.

      posted in Tuning and tweaking
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    • RE: Heater fault when trying to enable tool

      @phaedrux said in Heater fault when trying to enable tool:

      @ov_darkness said in Heater fault when trying to enable tool:

      When I connect the heater, there's an error message about a possible short.

      Check your wiring. There is possibly a short.

      I've triple checked (with a hi-quality multimeter). There's no short. I've found some info that it can be a grounding issue.

      @ov_darkness said in Heater fault when trying to enable tool:

      When trying to heat either bed or head, it gives me fault.

      What is the fault message? Have you PID tuned the heaters and saved the results?

      My fault message with TC is

      Heater 1 fault: failed to read sensor: sensor short to other wiring
      

      I haven't PID tune sensors, since I can't heat my tool.
      I can try this with PT100, but customer prefers TC for some wicked reason.

      https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Heaters_tuning

      Are you using thermocouples, or PT100, or thermistors?

      I need to use TC for this project but I also have PT100's.
      TC is Slice engineering one, PT100's are E3D.

      If thermocouple or PT100 do you also have the corresponding Duet daughterboard?

      I have two original Duet3D TC boards (1.1) and one original Duet3D PT100 board.

      posted in Tuning and tweaking
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    • Heater fault when trying to enable tool

      I'm building "Turbo Ender 3" with Duet 2 Wifi, LGX and Mosquito hotend.
      This is my first time with RRF3.4.1
      My issue is that I probably misconfigured heaters and have no idea where to go from here.
      When trying to heat either bed or head, it gives me fault.
      I've tested PT100 (as you can see by two M308 values) and it works ok.
      I've also tested another thermocouple amplifier.
      I don't have a second TC though.

      I've also encountered an issue when connecting the Slice heater to Duet.
      When the heater is disconnected, thermocouple readings are sane.
      When I connect the heater, there's an error message about a possible short.

      This is how my config.g looks like:

      ; General preferences
      M575 P1 S1 B57600                              ; enable support for PanelDue
      G90                                            ; send absolute coordinates...
      M83                                            ; ...but relative extruder moves
      M550 P"Ender 3"                                ; set printer name
      M918 P1 E4 F2000000                            ; configure direct-connect display
      
      ; Network
      M552 S1                                        ; enable network
      M586 P0 S1                                     ; enable HTTP
      M586 P1 S0                                     ; disable FTP
      M586 P2 S0                                     ; disable Telnet
      
      ; Drives
      M569 P0 S1                                     ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
      M569 P1 S0                                     ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
      M569 P2 S1                                     ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
      M569 P3 S0                                     ; physical drive 3 goes backwards
      M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3                               ; set drive mapping
      M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                        ; configure microstepping with interpolation
      M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E121.00              ; set steps per mm
      M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z24.00 E300.00          ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
      M203 X9000.00 Y9000.00 Z180.00 E6000.00        ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
      M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z100.00 E5000.00        ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
      M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1000 I50                  ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
      M84 S30                                        ; Set idle timeout
      
      ; Axis Limits
      M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                               ; set axis minima
      M208 X235 Y235 Z260 S0                         ; set axis maxima
      
      ; Endstops
      M574 X1 S1 P"^xstop"                           ; configure sensorless endstop for low end on X
      M574 Y1 S1 P"^ystop"                           ; configure sensorless endstop for low end on Y
      M574 Z1 S1 P"^zstop"                           ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Z via pin ^zstop
      
      ; Z-Probe
      M558 P0 H5 F120 T6000                          ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
      M557 X15:215 Y15:195 S20                       ; define mesh grid
      
      ; Heaters
      M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4092 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
      M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0                          ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
      M307 H0 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
      M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0
      M143 H0 S110                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 110C
      ;M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"thermocouple-max31856"   ; create sensor number 1 as a thermocouple, defaulting to type K in the first position on the Duet 2 daughter board connector
      M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865"			   ; create sensor number 1 as a PT100 sensor in the first position on the Duet 2 daughterboard connector
      M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1						   ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
      M307 H1 B0 S1.00                               ; disable bang-bang mode for heater  and set PWM limit
      M143 H1 S300                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 300C
      
      ; Fans
      M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500                           ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
      M106 P0 S0 H T45                               ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on
      M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500                           ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
      M106 P1 S1 H-1                                 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
      M950 F2 C"fan2" Q500                           ; create fan 2 on pin fan2 and set its frequency
      M106 P2 S1 H-1                                 ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
      
      ; Tools
      M563 P0 D0 H1 F0:1                             ; define tool 0
      G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                ; set tool 0 axis offsets
      G10 P0 R0 S0                                   ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
      
      ; Custom settings are not defined
      
      ; Miscellaneous
      M501                                           ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory
      T0                                             ; select first tool
      
      posted in Tuning and tweaking
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    • RE: Large Format CoreXY?

      @o_lampe ball screws are not self-braking. So when you have a substantial weight (10mm slab of aluminum 800x800mm in size weighs ~17kg and 800x800x4mm Robax sheet weighs about 6,5kg) on it, they will drop when motors are not energized. Therefore, you'd need trapezoidal screws (they hold large weights much better), motors with brakes, more than three motors (over constraining your bed), or you'd need to move XY gantry in Z axis instead of your bed (so you're basically building a Voron).
      in my opinion, using trapezoidal screws is the simplest, most efficient way to solve this problem.
      This comes from a person that's operating, servicing, and training people to use 600x600mm bed printers.

      posted in General Discussion
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    • RE: Large Format CoreXY?

      HevORT can be made 800x800mm and possibly larger, but with a setup like this, you lose the most important advantage of a CoreXY system - speed, because your' gantry will be very heavy (you can use servos like Clearpath and 12mm belt though). Also, the Bed will get very, very heavy, so you'd probably need to drive your Z-axis motors with belts and also you'd need to use Nema23 for that. Not enough detent torque on even 60mm Nema17's.
      Furthermore - ball screws are out of the question, you'd need to go with regular trapezoids.

      posted in General Discussion
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    • RE: Pinda 2 Config Duet 2 Wifi

      I'm planning to do a similar modification (but on stock Mk3s).
      I think that going to SuperPINDA sensor (v3) which doesn't need these tables at all simplifies the whole operation quite a bit.
      It cost around 20EUR directly from Prusa.
      @marcel-schiffer may I ask which enclosure have you used for your Duet?

      posted in Firmware installation
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    • New board EXP1HCL

      Hi,

      In RRF firmware 3.4.0beta3 changes description there's a line:

      The prototype EXP1HCL board is supported
      

      Duet Team, could you please share some more info?
      I've googled and searched, but there's no other info about this board.

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Problems with adapting Duet to 3D Kreator Motion 3D printer

      @dc42 no, it was edited by me.
      I have M557 defined in Config.g

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Problems with adapting Duet to 3D Kreator Motion 3D printer

      @dc42
      I have problems using G32.
      I keep gettion [code]G32
      Error: G29: No valid grid defined for bed probing[/code]
      My bed.g file looks like that:
      [code]
      ; bed.g
      ; called to perform automatic bed compensation via G32
      ;
      ; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sun Nov 25 2018 14:50:03 GMT+0100 (czas środkowoeuropejski standardowy)
      M561 ; clear any bed transform
      G28 ; home all axes
      G90 ; Back to absolute positioning

      ; Probe the bed at 6 points
      G30 P0 X2 Y1 H0 Z-99999
      G30 P1 X100 Y1 H0 Z-99999
      G30 P2 X195 Y1 H0 z-99999
      G30 P3 X195 Y195 H0 Z-99999
      G30 P4 X100 Y195 H0 Z-99999
      G30 P5 X2 Y195 H0 Z-99999

      G29 S0 ;Probe the bed and save height map to file
      M374 ; Save calibration data. Default is sys/heightmap.csv
      [/code]
      and my heightmap.csv is empty.

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Problems with adapting Duet to 3D Kreator Motion 3D printer

      Printer works as expected 🙂
      Thank you for your help @dc42
      Soon I'll be putting together much bigger and faster machine with Duet.
      It'll be heated chamber COREXY.

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Problems with adapting Duet to 3D Kreator Motion 3D printer

      @dc42
      I've found a while to work on this project, but documentation is somewhat unclear to me and I don;t want to damage my Duet.
      If I read this right I need to remove V_FAN jumper, then connect DC-DC converter IN to always on fan output (so I lose one out).
      then I need to connect DC-DC V_OUT to middle pin of V_FAN and leave the GND_OUT unconnected as this is common negative?

      Can I use 24V out from my PSU instead of always on Fan?

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Problems with adapting Duet to 3D Kreator Motion 3D printer

      Homing is not working.
      No matter if I set NO or NC, or use stall detection. It just keeps banging head against the frame
      Ok, I have this sorted: my printer now homes perfectly!

      @dc42 Another question:
      Is there a way to use Z sensor that close circuit between bed and nozzle on specific points ( 4 corners and in the middle of front and back)?

      Old board had this semi-automatic bed leveling, where it was positioning itself over the corners of the build plate and flashed RGBW LED's when nozzle was touching the bed.
      It would be nice to have this in Duet, also, is there a way to control RGB LED's?

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • RE: Problems with adapting Duet to 3D Kreator Motion 3D printer

      Ok, I'll buy new fans 🙂

      Jogging works ok.
      Sould the endstop light be off when triggered or on? Mine are constantly lit, and going off whe they're triggered. I've tried to flip tem in configurator tool, and they're stil not working.
      Is there any additional steps to enable sensorless homing apart from setting this in config?

      posted in Duet Hardware and wiring
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