@dc42
Thanks for the response. The SD card is fine, but the ESP seems to not be functioning. No lights, heat or connection can be established with it. For the last month, I've had a BLtouch connected to the expansion, but to the 5V pin, not 3V. Nothing else has ever been plugged into the expansion.
Do you believe its just the processor,esp, and possibly the 3V regulator too?
After having nothing but issues with my duet wifi for the last year, I felt I was finally making progress but I think it may have died.
I turned my printer on this morning, walked away for a few minutes and came back to a very quiet clicking sound and both my bed and hotend were very hot. Of course, first thing I did was turn it off, waited a minute and try again. The same thing happened after power-up.
When turned on, all 5 LEDs in the row on the front are on, as well the diagnostic and bed heat led. When connected to just USB, 4 LEDs light up(3v+, 3.3V, diagnostic and the one right on the other side of the USB with no name). It does not show up on the computer or connect to the panel due 7i. The main chip gets hot, too hot to keep your finger on it after a minute. Everything else is cool, even the bed and hotend transistor although my bed and hotend are on a never ending heatup until I turn off the printer.
I tried a different USB, SD, disconnected everything from the board and verified my power supply and on-board fuse. Reset and erase seem to have no effect when pressed. Suggestions?
Thanks!
Sorry, forgot to talk about the X. That's a 2A motor that seems to get real noisy and hot over 1.5A, so I stepped it down to 1.4 where it seems to run its best.
Here are the motors:
X: MS17HA4P4200
Y: MS17HD2P4100
Z: e43h4b-2.33-a20 similar to the link
E: 1040252
It looks like all of the steppers are all under 4mH, except Y which is 8.9. I have read this writeup and they suggest against that high of an inductance. I have put the original Y motor back on it which is 1124141 with 4.8mH, no difference in quality besides more ringing. The original XY steppers had a lot of vibration and noise, so i swapped them out. I print mostly without pressure advance since it makes quality worse and have never used bed level correction. I've gone through and verified every stepper is grounded to the chassis, which is grounded. I did happen to come across something odd that I've never tried before. I attached a probe from the ground on the duet, to the chassis of the power supply which is grounded . Put my meter in ACV as a cheap ripple/noise meter and I get a constant ~3.5V. I then put it in DC and get about 0.5-1V. THroughout different places on the printer probing, I get different voltages. This could all be normal and mean nothing, just throwing it out there.I'm no electrical engineer, just a hobbiest with electronics, so I don't know exactly what this could mean, if anything.
@bot thanks for the encouraging words
@Alex-cr My override is empty, so its not used. Thank you for sharing though!
@DocTrucker I have indeed tried 256 and it doesn't make quality better or worse unless i start printing fast and then my extruder skips. I have tried extruder jerk form 1000-9999 in thousand increments. So far, values under 1000 prove to be the best. I don't believe my E is the limiting factor here since print times or motion doesn't seem to be different from 60 jerk up. I bumped up my accel to 3600 with no difference in quality. Every stepper is different, yes. I have tried every stepper current in incements of 100mA up from 750mA to 1A and found them to be most quiet and effective where they're at. I'm not sure their inductance. As for the heater faults, I simply threw that in there because its the values makergear supplied with their U1 running a duet and it runs the same hotend. PID's are from the auto tune. They're really not any better than the stock values, but I left them.
@LB My printers isn't running a very cheap, nor the best PSU. I do however believe its very adequate(Mean well SE-450-24). When running, it never drops below 23.8V(24V PSU), even under the most strenuous conditions. Vripple is also negligible .
@bot Thank you so much for that kind offer, but I couldn't possibly take one of your printers offline for that.
On a side note-
Pressure advance makes my top layers worse in tight back and forth top fill, and doesn't make my corners any less rounded/bulged. But, it does make my extruder skip a lot if over 0.25, which makes sense. Any idea why that could be, maybe tied into the underlying issue? Printing without Pressure advance improves my quality on top and corners, but still nowhere near what I'd consider "good"
Besides that, do you have any other suggestions to try?
@bot I'm aware its different, just not by what degree. Please re-read my post as ive not just copied and pasted and started asking for help. I've gone through many many many different configurations with the jerk and accel from really low to super high with no significant quality improvements. Please don't get me wrong here, i do appreciate everyones help on this, i'm just very frustrated with this issue. If i in fact need to reduce my jerk by half, ill be running at around X120 Y120 Z15 E30 which in my opinion, as of what everyone else settings are, is on the very low end of things. I have in fact tried half of my original settings from marlin with very very jerky slow prints, which makes sense.
@Phaedrux I've sent messages out to a few people who've put the duet on their printer and their settings near match mine and the marlins default values. They both say they love their duet, which makes me wonder if I've either got a faulty board, or am having unrealistic expectations for the duet.
@bot yes, same printer. I copied the exact same values used in the gcode I posed, just converted them from reprap firmware to marlin, and converted the units where needed. At this point im not quite sure what to think. If i was trying to debug someone else having this issues, id probably agree with you about extruder, but from my perspective, it doesn't make sense at all. Reducing flow on the duet only minimizes the problem proportionally and ruins the rest of the part, so it seems its not flow.
@Phaedrux ---I'm pretty confident in the accuracy since its what I used in marlin as well for a little bit. To be honest, I made the changes long ago and reverted them back to defaults and see no difference in quality at all. PLA has such a wide range of printing temperatures that it must have just been okay.
@bot I ran out of white, but this is the same sliced settings, printed on my rambo, just modified the jerk and acceleration gcode commands and format. You can clearly see the difference between the two, and that's not even using my normal RAMBO slicing settings, that's using the settings that work the best on the duet, but are still not good.
@Phaedrux I'm aware of the units. I initially copied over the exact (converted) units from marlins FW, with no success. I've tried more duet printer standard accel and jerk like yours and it doesn't improve anything. I printed the little boat again with your exact jerk settings and it turned out worse than with the low jerk and accel. The makergear is a very solid printer, but its not designed for very high speeds, accel, and jerk. Any other suggestions?
The bed and hotend thermistor are in fact the same model. I did try with the equivalent thermistor settings from marlin, but went further on tuning them.
Here is my config. Just to let you all know, I manage a print farm with custom and commercial desktop FDM printers, so I’m not anywhere near new to printing. I have them all tuned and printing very well, but they’re running marlin, repetier, and smoothie.
The big issues I’m still having is rough movement from the printer and a poor rough top layer where the extruder fills a 2-7mm section. Both of these issues (from experience) are normally related to jerk and acceleration, yet I have tried nearly every single possible combination with results not getting much better from the last test ran. I've tried tuning pressure advance and it helps, but needs a value of about 0.75 to smooth out that top layer, but trashes the rest of the print. I also get uneven extrusions, and different print results from running the same gcode right after the first. To throw in, I’ve tried S3D, Cura, slic3r, idea maker, and Pathio, all horrible results. I’ve still not gotten an answer to this post regarding the very strange jittery and noisy stepper signal. Yes, the drivers manipulate the signal, but does mine look at all similar to any of yours? To be clear, I’m not talking about audible noise, I’m referring to noise in the signal. Seems like a couple of you may have drifted from that.
About a year ago I started THIS thread. My config file has been changed since then, but results haven’t gotten much better, a year ago.
OEM setttings for marlin:
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {900,1000,30,2000}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {200, 200, 25, 25}
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 4.0
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 0.4
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 1.0
These images reflect the gcode.
1_1556294322049_simple_boat5.gcode 0_1556294322048_config.g
So, in other-words, yours looks similar to that and its normal?
After many months of completely unsuccessful printing with the Duet and loads of flipping back to my RAMBO, I’ve finally decided to check duet hardware for problems.
I’d first like to point of that my printer prints near perfectly whenever I swap back to my RAMBO. The Power supply is adequate, with correct voltage and current being supplied with very low vripple. The mechanical aspects of the printer are also in great shape.
Today I decided to check the steppers to see how they looked under the oscilloscope, and I was a bit shocked to see how jittery and un-square they were. I can understand why they may not be perfectly square under a load, but the jittering looks to be a stepper phase timing issue. Note that this video is with the motor powered, stationary. I did check it without the stepper, and the waves are much more squared but still jittery(lessened. I would show a video, but now the duet keeps stopping itself because it detects that the motor is disconnected. I can’t seem to bypass that safety feature anymore. On my Rambo, stepper unplugged, everything looks great. Plugged in, the signals get more rounded with slightly more noise, but way better than the duet.
Is this how all duetwifi stepper ports look? https://streamable.com/5jo00
FW:2.02
Printer: Makergear M2
I think it would be nice to see the IP in one of the corners of the Panel. It would also make sense for you to set a static IP so its always going to be that IP, regardless of power down. Just ensure your router can support static IP and check the range.
This may help:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/4532/static-ip-solved/4
@phaedrux I'd love to see your results! You really shouldn't have to print more than a half inch to really see any issues(if you have any at all). Thank you!
Thank you for taking the time to add that. At the beginning of these posts, I had it in the startup script in S3D. Since then, I have moved it into the config file. After all this time, still can't seem to get a semi decent print with the duet. I'm hoping @dc42 will either have a firmware update or someone can come up with a feasible solution.
Printing on the rambo, everything went smooth(except the brim/skirt, s3d issue). Printed on the duetWifi, its very jerky around the rounded portions of the model, same with infill. I know yellow wasn't the best color, but it's what I was currently printing, so I didn't switch it. Even then, you can clearly see the vibration marks on the black, unlike the yellow.
Here is a link to the images and Gcode. Black is duet, yellow is rambo.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DkNnZv4c34fAN3zWl1TuJxT3eX1P-2Tw
@dc42, that probably want the best gcode to share that really makes my printer jerk, but if you pay close enough attention, you can see it’s not smooth and swift on round areas. I’m sure that article with be helpful for many people with jerky motions, nice write up. Unfortunately, I’ve tried all of that and might just have to settle with half my normal print speeds when using the duet or permanently stick with my Rambo.
@Maglin Thank you for your response! As discussed above, I’ve tried from 16, all the way to 256, with and without pressure advance. They don’t seem to make a difference. Currently I’ve settled for 32 on the X/Y, with 64 for both Z and E so I can print down to 10 micron for some items. As people have stated before, “raise the jerk”, and I have but it completely ruins all my corners (unlike previously, with marlin) which isn’t an option. Even using pressure advance and coast settings, its very hard to eliminate those very rounded sharp corners. As I let everyone else know earlier, I’ve increased the E jerk to ridiculously high numbers to see if that had an effect, which it didn’t. Having to use Cura to get decent results seems very funny to me since all other firmware’s I’ve played with have no problem with S3D. Switching strictly to Cura is not an option for me either since I cannot add manual support which is a deal breaker in my line of work. I have used Cura with this board, and it does seem to do better but I simply cannot switch to it until it has that basic feature. I do appreciate your response
@shen I did find slowing things down a lot helped significantly, but it just throws me off that Marlin was able to do it so successfully without any signs of funny jerky motions. I've had to cut my speed in half to get okay results, but even then, they're not as good as prior. I can't afford to lose half the speed I normally print at. I am however glad to hear that I'm not the only one who is having this problem. Thank you for your reply!
