Best posts made by Spargo

Hi all,

As part of my printers I needed some lighting to be controlled by the Duet board itself (Mine is a Duet 2 WiFi 1.04). I've set up some 2N7000 transistors to be controlled on the gate by some unused heater pins on the expansion header.

The Gcode is below along with a picture of the specific pins I used to control each colour. Your red, green and blue might end up being in a different order than I have in the Gcode. I used a common cathode RGB strip light running on 12V.

I hope this helps a few people.

Additionally, it can be included in your config.g with the following line in misc at the end:

M98 P"/macros/rgb_lighting_setup.g" ; Include RGB Lighting macro in startup process

If there is no .g in the name when you upload the macro, don't include the .g in the M98.

RGB_Lighting_Setup.g

Hi, I was wondering if anyone might have any advice on cantilever bed designs.

The first image shows my existing bed arrangement (GSF R32 rails) which works fine with the exception of some sagging on the unsupported side. It is driven by a single Z axis motor in the middle between the rails and I want to swap to a simpler setup for the metalwork (As seen in image 2).

The model in image 2 suggests in simulations that it will be significantly stiffer and sag a minimal amount with a 3kg weight, I think it was about 0.2mm at the end. However with the bearing length of only 30mm (Igus N 17) and having tried it with larger bearings (Igus TW-01-20) I'm getting a bit concerned about whether it will run smooth. The Igus T rail guides have a lot of play without a lot of tuning, more than the N guides do, but they also (theoretically) have a much longer area to glide on.

I haven't been able to tune the T guide blocks up enough to remove all the slack (see image 4 - it shows what it looks like without a rail), and when lifting the bed up they work fine albeit a bit stiff, but when I lower the bed by hand there's a lot of chattering. I have a suspicion that if I flip the bearings upside down that the behaviour would be reversed in this case.

Am I ignoring too many cantilever design rules or is the chattering simply down the the slack T rail bearings?

I haven't got a definite solution that will work at the slicer level as it looks like you already have a small layer height, but one way that works for me is to drill the holes out after they have been printed.

Another solution may be to add a little cut in the top and bottom of the circle where it goes flat. Your holes wouldn't be perfect circles but they should let you fit a bolt through.