Posts made by TheRulesLawyer

Yes. CNCbot, and that shows in the web interface for the printer.
M550 P"CNCbot" ; Set machine name

Is it possible to set the wifi client name? Its listed as unknown in my DHCP client list on my router and it would be nice for it to have a name so I know what IP the duet has. I looked up in the wiki and saw how to assign a MAC, but nothing on the client itself. I looked up on my router to see if I could just assign it there, but it appears to be set by the client during DHCP lease negotiation.

@crchisholm See if your router has MAC address reservations. Once you find your duet in your dchp client list you should be able see the mac there and go in and reserve an IP for that MAC. Helpful hint- make it an IP that's well out of range of normal assignment. For instance my router likes to assign 192.168.0.1XX addresses starting at 100. With the extra AP you get a lot less weirdness if you grab 192.168.0.200 or something for your Duet. If this doesn't work you might still have a DHCP server turned on with one of your AP.

@crchisholm Gotcha. Configure them with the same SSID, same PW, same encryption and you should roam pretty seamlessly. If you have DHCP on your extenders you'll want to turn that off and only have the DHCP on your router. If you have the ability to set channels its useful to make sure they're on different ones. (many are auto)

FWIW why are you on different SSIDs? If you configure them all the same your devices should just pick up the one with the best signal automatically. You only really need different SSID's if you need to force a device to a certain AP for some reason. Its made life with my extenders so much easier.

@dennishall said in Duet WiFi and PanelDue Clones.:

@theruleslawyer When you mention the screenprint. If you mean what you see in the images on AliExpress, those are the original Duet3D board images that people are using instead of displaying images of their own boards.
This is the AliExpress equivalent of "click-bate" and one of the reasons I (personally) never buy there - you never know what you will actually get from AliExpress.

I only ever bought an electronics board from ALiExpress once and what I got was not only a different and extremely inferior product, but not even the same color as what they presented in their product page.
The specs. they provided were "sparse" and failed to mention they were accurate, meaning what they did not tell you - actually did not exist - this excluded things like inline fuses for critical circuits and any voltage protection on-board. These are features that, when missing, can kill either the board or even you in the end.

Beyond those critical things, AliExpress is too legally distant for us to have any enforceable buyers rights as well so when you buy from them, it's always at your own peril.

Oh I don't doubt some are using the original pics. Though some also have legit pics of their own boards complete with the printing, which is why I asked about it. I couldn't see what the original pics were like.

Ali is the wild west in terms of buying stuff though. There are a few shops on there I don't have any qualms about. Triangle labs for instance I have a bunch of their stuff and have always been happy. They're not the cheapest place on ali, but when I'm looking at buying 1 of 300 identical looking parts they are a pretty known quantity at least. I've also generally had good experiences with fysetc on ali.

Not that any of them hold a candle to the sort of reliability we expect from western suppliers. However if you're buying commodity stuff like stepper drivers, etc most of the time buying in the west is just relabeled Chinese stuff anyways. You can pay the mark up for possibility of an easier return or save a pretty good percentage by getting it closer to the source. Make your choice I suppose.

As for clone duets- No offense but people should know better than to think anything on Ali is 'brand name'. I would be shocked if anything I bought there with a brand name isn't a clone. Given that they're open source I have no issues otherwise given they do follow the labeling requirements. I'd probably also run a clone with a relay for the heater instead of trusting the board to handle that current. Steppers would possibly be more of an issue if you're driving them particularly hard. However the current limit is quite a bit over what a typical nema17 is using for most printers.

I'm curious if the board itself was marked that it was a clone? Most of them seem to include it screen printed on the back.

@adrian52 When you set a minimum layer time does it slow the print to meet that layer time or does it just sit there for 10 seconds doing nothing?

This may be an error. I'm not sure what m258.5 does.
; Axis Limits
M208 X-5.5 Y-5.5 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M258.5 X245 Y245 Z255 S0 ; Set axis maxima

Try replacing with
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X235 Y235 Z255 S0 ; Set axis maxima

I'm not sure if you meant to add the extra travel or not. When you zero x/y is the nozzle over the bed?

I used to have that scraping issue sometimes as my bed was not well trammed and without the mesh it would be too close in places if you didn't give it some +z on move. To start I did the typical paper tramming, but then used the mesh visualization to start tramming the bed better. After a few rounds of that I had much less slope in the mesh bed compensation. Then I went through the process of setting the z offset for the probe in the wiki again and I can usually print without any babystepping anymore. I also replaced my adjuster knobs with those nylon cored locknuts so they wouldn't vibrate loose and lose my settings.

Do you have the bed size set correctly? Have you set the offset for your probe mount?

@mringersoll
The issue is the offset of your probe. I have a ezabl and I have to tell it to probe a smaller area because the nozzle would have to travel outside the bed. For example my probe is +48x I have to tell it I want to probe +50 to + 250 on my cr10 otherwise I get that error. (Technically I could probe out to +300, but I'm trying to make it even. I'm guessing your offset isn't allowing you to reach +188.

I'm curious as to why you'd want to mesh bed before heating. Doesn't heating potentially warp the bed? I always let my printer sit at bed temp for awhile before I mesh so that it has a chance to stabilize.

Interesting. Are you automatically wiping your nozzle with that brass brush too?

FWIW the EZABL is supposed to be capacitive but there are a couple versions of them. If you have the little PCB board from TH3D the output from that goes to the z-probe in. Ground and signal wires. You probably need to add I1 to the m558 command in your config.

I just hooked mine up and if the probe in and ground were reversed, it never triggered. Can you see it go from 0 to 1000 in the UI? If so you need to add/remove the I1 modifier from M558. If not, you probably have the ground and Signal wires swapped. Polarity matters here.