Thanks. That would make implementation simpler by having the RPi manage sending the slices to the LCD panel and control the exposure time.
Any plan to put together a wiring diagram?
I meant to include the link for the mUVe:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8xCOdl2soS-UDQ1ckE3SEZvVnM/view
page 13 starts the discussion on M650 if it helps
Thanks
Tim
Hi
I have spent the morning searching for information that might be helpful. I have not found a specific list of which GCodes are supported by nanoDLP.
I have found a manual for a specific printer which is the mUVe DLP and the manual is all about setting up nanoDLP. There are certainly a number of specific GCode detailed examples.
I have a couple of Raspberry Pi 3 b+ units with Raspbian installed so I am going to download nanoDLP and see what I can discover by working with the software. I can easily set up a board with some LEDs to see what GIO pins are being used.
Is there anything specific that I can look into that would be of help to you in looking at this? Is the specific list of GCodes in the DuetWifi the list that would need to be supported assuming there may be some specific to dealing with the exposure time for the UV Lighting, etc.?
In theory would the goal be to replace the nanoDLP with the functional capabilities already built into the DuetWifi? I already have a DLP printer that I purchased from SparkMaker which includes the software used to slice the model before it gets written onto the memory card which it prints from. Would I not be able to obtain most of the GCodes needed by reading that GCode file?
I'm offering to do whatever research I can. Can you give me a list of the information you need?
Thanks,
Tim
@dc42
Thank you so much for the quick reply. That is great news.!!!
Is there a wiring diagram anywhere and perhaps a setup guide?
I will look up the G-Codes you have listed and look for a peel-move.g sample
I have about a month for the parts to come in so I have time to understand what I have to do to make it work.
Any docs you can recommend?
thanks
Tim
Hi
I am purchasing the various pieces that I need to build the printer detailed in the link below.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2749678
I have a spare Duet and I'd like to see if I could use it in this build.
Specifically, there is only 1 stepper which is the Z axis, and two limit switches, but I am wondering if the bed heating circuit could be used to control the UV lamp system. In reality it would need to be able to turn the lamp controller on for a duration of time, and then turn it off.
In the printer that I have linked to, an LCD panel with the backlight removed is used to display the layer image on the bottom surface of a vat containing resin. A cluster of UV LEDs is used to fuse the resin layer. The build plate is raised through each layer and the LCD displays the next sliced image which is then exposed to the UV light.
If I can't use the Duet, it's not a problem. A Raspberry Pi is used to drive the sliced image on the LCD, and general io pins are used to drive the stepper and light exposure. I have seen other designs using a Ramps board which is why I thought I might be able to use the Duet.
No hurry,
Thanks,
Tim
!!Brilliant!!
Thanks for putting this together and letting me know about it.
Are you getting the correct amount of filament ie 100 requested, 100 sent?
I have had to correct mm/s every time I have changed parts on the hot end.
Have you tuned the heater? That will help ensure the heat value.
Hi
In going back to belt drive, I've had some issue with skipping, but they seemed to be mechanical. My X axis is mounted inside the printer frame although it is a 20x40 mounted vertically with half of it above the frame. It's been a challenge to find a way to mount the motor so that the gear with the teeth is at the end of the axis.
I'm at a point where the first layer tends to wander around a bit on X. It seems to eventually decide where it wants to be while still in the first layer and then it starts printing properly. I'm only using a fairly small arc of the gear motor so I suspect I need to increase the number of teeth that I am engaging.
I think I will end up mounting the motor to the outside frame and extending the belt.
@phaedrux
Well, that was quite the education on what is available in the filament market. I had no idea there were so many choices. Thanks!
@deckingman
That's not a great ad for steel core belts, but I am not surprised. I wonder if they would be a good target for 60 tooth wheels. The bend arc would be much more relaxed.
@deckingman
Sorry, I missed this in the bunch that came in since I last checked the board. Thanks, that's the one I ordered!
Thanks. Good to know feedback. I'm not sure how much use one would have to have to stretch them. I would think that it would take a while. I know from cutting mine that there is a layer of fiber inside the belt for reinforcement, so it may last quite some time without issue.
Thanks for the Canadian distributor list. I have not dealt with Filamensts.ca yet. I'll go check out the products they carry.
Tim
edited to fix spelling
Hi wilriker:
I did find the home site for gates belts, and I found a ton of automotive belts. I did see indications that the size I was searching for existed. I did not find it though.
In the meantime, today I switched my X and Y drives back to belts, and each is running on a linear bearing instead of wheels. I found the original belts and though I had to extend them, they are installed and tight enough that there is no skipping.
Currently printing a 20mm cube that looks fantastic. I missed the step of changing the 500mm/sec for the threaded rod down to the 100mm/sec for belts. Very smooth!
I used the extruder bar on the web interface and turned it down to 80%. Not getting the splotches of filament anymore.
Thanks so much for the assistance and suggestions. Very happy. I will find the Gates belts. Gorilla Super Glue works very well for extending belts. Just cut off a section and apply the glue so the teeth of one part mesh to the teeth of the next part. Then glue the last part back on teeth to teeth and leave the backward section inside the V-Slot.
@wilriker said in Nema 23 Questions:
GATES PowerGrip GT3 xxx-2MGT3-6
Thanks for the info. I found them on Amazon.ca, but not sure it I have length choices. Getting stuff from the UK takes almost as long as China. I haven't checked the US yet.
Since I changed out the whole hot end, I will need to recalibrate the bowden extruder by the look of the prints. What would be a good hot end? It seems the E3d V6 is touchy to get the flow set up. There are so many choices that it's hard for my level of experience to make a choice.
Thanks
Thanks
I shall start understanding what I have in my collection of pulleys.
I replaced the entire extruder with a new E3d V6 that I had just received. This one did not have a plastic tube in so it jammed up on me. I now have the tube all the way in and it is extruding. It's making a mess which I would normally say is over extruding, but it is using the same bowden as the previous one which was laying down nice lines.
More investigation required, I guess, but not heater error anymore.
Tim
Hi:
I haven't left, I was just busy rebuilding the printer again.
So, to the important part first.
ein Arm und ein Bein according to google translate, which does not understand context or nuances:) For all I know, the saying may not even be used in German. I find other languages challenging since they seem to have a whole different word for everything!:)
I removed my Y axis. It was never as solid as I wanted it to be. I build another box out of extruded 20 x 40 V-Slot and put a linear slide bearing on each one, I have a carriage plate spanning the two rails. On the carriage plate, I have two (one at each end - front and back) bronze threaded bearings that the lead screw goes through.
The hot bed is mounted to two rails mounted to the carriage plate. It is a very solid assembly with excellent movement. I went back to the Nema 17 motor and changed the config.g setting back to what they were before the Nema 23.
I printed an almost perfect configuration cube. (the corners aren't perfectly square and I know I have some play in the X axis.
Having said and done all that, I think that I am going to replace the threaded rod with belts. Physics clearly implies that belts would be smoother and provide less resistance to motion. So, I have seen pulley ends with 16 teeth, 20 teeth, etc. Is the number of teeth important? What about belt size?
This just never ends 
I was printing something last night, and I received a heater fault message. I now get a constant 2000 degree reading on the hot end heater. Shouldn't be too hard to figure out.
Thanks
Tim
Yes, I am familiar with the belt setup. My printer started as a Tevo Tarantula which was belt driven. I think I am still using two pieces of the original frame for my spool holder. Everything else has been replaced.
I did quite a bit of research before adopting the threaded rods. Everything I read about belt driven systems seemed to emphasize things like stretched belts and skipping teeth under load. I suspect now, that what I read was produced by the threaded rod companies.
I have been thinking about returning to belts. It seems like a good exercise in simplicity. Your comments on inertia and backlash are supported by experience.
Take a look at these. I find them hard to resist :). Anything used in medical ought to be smooth and accurate, I would think.
@wilriker
As you will see by my latest addition to this discussion, I am not in a hurry. I've hit the point where I want to stop trying to hack something together and would prefer to do it properly.
Thanks
Tim
I got to thinking after that discussion that the mechanical composition of the axis must have a great deal to do with the final results.
My X axis came from China. It's a complete system which has a nema 17 coupled to a lead screw. The lead screw goes through a brass threaded bearing that one would normally find on a Z axis gantry. There is nothing for anti-backlash and it chatters like crazy while printing. The play is noticable in the final printed object.
My Y has two parallel linear bearing rails, but very small linear bearings. A plate mounts to those, but only in opposite corners. I have a brass threaded bearing that the threaded rod goes through and that rod is coupled to a Nema 23. The brass bearing is held to the edge of the plate with multiple windings of wire which is quite secure but not very impressive to look at.
I really want a system that is smooth and precise. I am constantly looking at various linear motion systems, but they are expensive and I want to be sure it's the final answer before I fork out the cash.
Obviously, from the discussions in this thread there are important considerations / calculations that should be done before anything gets ordered.
I've spent quite a bit on various systems, but I could have saved quite a bit if I knew enough to buy the ideal solution up front.
Maybe I should have made a new thread for this, but I would appreciate input.
I'm also looking at CNC hardware which seems to use larger rod sizes and I don't know if that would make any difference.
Thanks
Tim
@wilriker
I don't consider this thread hijacking. I found it entertaining. May be I could get a copy of that spreadsheet? I shall even ask nicely.
May I please have a copy of that wonderful spreadsheet?
Thanks.
Tim