@bearer
So maybe I should change F200 to any other number? Spec said 0-15000
So set it to 15000 and try again?
Or R255 to R15000?

Could anyone help pls
I can’t get the laser to fire

@yaman
mind sharing your laser part of your config.g? are u running on the expansion board? I am trying to mine to work... but my laser have 2 pin 12v and 2 pin ttl... dont know how to plug this up (heater 7 pwn and gnd?)

@dc42 I'll rather stay at V3 codebase.
Reverting back to 2.05 requires re-setting too many things (endstops, laser control, etc..)

Sensorless homing is accurate to three or four full steps. Works great for things where the last tenth of a millimeter doesn't really matter, like X and Y on a 3D printer. You'll find that printers that stall detect x and y still have a probe for Z.

This would probably be OK for a laser X and Y in terms of being in one corner of the bed, etc. Probably not accurate enough for Z (focus) repeatability.

It would NOT work for, say, a home, cut, home, engrave sequence. Or a multi-pass cut that had home in between. It would work fine for a cut then engrave without a home inbetween, or a multi pass cut without a home.

So, it depends just a little bit on how you intend to use it.

Not a problem 🙂
It would appear that I am on RRF2 as I am using a WorkBee from Ooznest so the velocity ramping is not useable 😞

I'm sorry, I don't do chat support, if I did then everyone would want it and I would never get any firmware development done. Also, there are others on this forum with more experience of laser engravers than I have.

What is it that you now need help with?

Will the laser be Fiber or CO2 or something else? Aluminum with CO2... Will you be using a marking agent?

This is a long, complex, topic and I'd ask at https://www.reddit.com/r/lasercutting/ or some other forum that is more focused (ha!) on laser cutting and engraving.

P.S. Spelling the word "engraving" will help people understand your question.

@woodworksimon
sorry, lost the question - try again...
If I have understood it correctly, then from the code above, the G1 command controls the laser power output and the M106 controls the frequency of that output. So for my example, in the header I use M452 P2 without the r255, still use the M106 p2 S0 to direct the output to 5v fan output, but I don't then need the M106 P2 S0.1 in the first feed move, but replace it with G1 X Y F S25 for a laser power of 25/255ths. Thereafter would the s25 be inherited in the begin feed moves. Is that power modulated to suit the xy speed to avoid overburning, and is it down to the software used to modulate output ie if you are burning a halftone image?
So many questions - apologies!

@spw said in Duet 2 Wifi performance for laser raster printing:

Video showing jerk during long movements: https://youtu.be/ePAcdSWWiTc

I think that may have more to do with the motors of the Ender 3 than the Duet.

The belts also look loose?

I will have to calculate it again since we use 24V, right?

That's an inverter, not a NOR gate! A NOR gate would have two inputs (Not OR).

@pauledd said in Turn laser only on?:

Works!

Great!,
I just realised that M453 P3 R255:255 would also solve this by enabling M4; it's the 2nd option on the R parameter that does that.
But.. I've also found with CNC's that the important thing is to come up with a workflow that works, and not get too fussy about the details, that way lies madness.

Thanks for the header information!

I am using a 60w CO2 laser tube and power supply from amazon. Also picked up a mirror/lens kit to bounce it all around my CNC router.

I am still playing with it and determining whether it is worth it to keep it on my machine or move it to a separate one. Part of that is finding a board that will support all the different tasks.

@dc42 On the driver I can set the control to be either high or low. Would that be the same as using the 74HCT02 chip?

@Smiely, you are right, the M3 command should certainly be sticky if you use the M452 S1 parameter. However, the preferred way of driving laser cutters is to specify the laser power in the G1 S parameter instead of using M3. LightBurn has a configuration setting for this.

HTH David

quoted from a post by @DC42,:

@dc42 said in duetwifi breakout board and bltouch wiring: The breakout board inverts the heater/servo signals to be the "right way up", just as on the DueX boards, so you won't need the I1 parameter on the M208 commands. do i understand right, that: "The PWM heater output on the Duet acts on the negative side, to pull it low, rather than pulling it high" but with the aid of an breakout board it will be the other way (pull it high, rather than pulling it low)

Yes.

So by this answer, The PWM question is answered in full, for witch i am thankfully.

@otaku521 said in DuetWifi Laser Engraver Setup:

I have a few questions:

How to do I know the appropriate pwm frequencies? (F200?)

You will need to see what the datasheet for your laser controller recommends.

I noticed that on lower G1 S# xxxx that the laser is not turn on? (or so weak I cannot see any etches at all?) is there a min # to set? is it set on M106 Lxx??

The feature you need is called Gamma Correction. I have been told that Lightburn supports it.

any pointers to have a good etch? as I see some areas have very light and some are charred

I'm sorry, I have no experience of laser engravers.