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    Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops

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    • wingtipundefined
      wingtip @droftarts
      last edited by

      @droftarts
      Ya I realized it was a different version but I was desperate and can easily change back the few lines I edited.
      I look forward to your results if you use the same ports/drives and my config.

      Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

      droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • droftartsundefined
        droftarts administrators @wingtip
        last edited by droftarts

        @wingtip

        I've had some problems with this, but the outcome seems to be to plug the U endstop into E0! This works for me, even though the motor is plugged into motor drive E1. I'll check with @dc42 why this might be! On the whole, I'd just move the whole U axis to motor driver 3 (E0).

        Edit: Tested, set U to driver 3 (E0) U endstop connected to E0_ENDSTOP works. In config.g change to:
        M584 X0:3 Y1 Z2 U3 E4 P3
        M569 P3 S0
        M569 P4 S1
        Also change U4 to U3 in homing files.

        I think your endstops may be wired Normally Open (NO) rather than Normally Closed (NC). It says HERE that you should use the Normally Closed pins (the outer two, the three pins usually being G (Ground), NO (Normally Open) and NC (Normally Closed)) of your microswitch. It goes on to say:

        ... set the signal polarity to active high (S1) in the M574 command

        eg yours should be:

        ; Endstops
        M574 X1 Y1 U1 S1 ; position low, active low
        M574 Z1 S2 ; set endstops controlled by probe
        

        This should mean that:

        • If an endstop is not connected, the LED next to the axis motor connector will be off, and 'Triggered' will be 'Yes'
        • If an endstop is connected and not triggered, the LED next to the axis motor connector will be lit, and 'Triggered' will be 'No'
        • If an endstop is connected and triggered, the LED next to the axis motor connector will be off, and 'Triggered' will be 'Yes'

        However, your config.g has the endstops triggering active low (M574 S0), and this seems to be shown in the endstop response. I have to invert mine with S1 to get the right response. The main thing is that all used endstops should report 'No' when not triggered, and 'Yes' when triggered!

        Ian

        Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

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        • dc42undefined
          dc42 administrators
          last edited by dc42

          I confirm, endstop switches are allocated to axes independently of stepper drivers. In RRF2 the endstop switch allocation is automatic and can't be changed. Your U axis will be allocated the first unassigned endstop, which is E0. If you created another axis such as V, that will be assigned to E1.

          BTW, RRF3 handles multiple endstops on an axis automatically, without having to create additional axes.

          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

          wingtipundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • wingtipundefined
            wingtip @dc42
            last edited by

            @dc42 soooooo are you saying for us mere mortals that i can leave the motor in its current connection in the E1/dr 4 slot but i just need to move the endstop to the E0 endstop slot? or should i move both?

            Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

            droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • wingtipundefined
              wingtip @droftarts
              last edited by

              @droftarts the panel due enclosure i printed is this one
              https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3101323

              Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • droftartsundefined
                droftarts administrators @wingtip
                last edited by

                @wingtip said in Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops:

                @dc42 soooooo are you saying for us mere mortals that i can leave the motor in its current connection in the E1/dr 4 slot but i just need to move the endstop to the E0 endstop slot? or should i move both?

                Yes, you can leave the motor on E1/dr 4 and move the endstop to E0. Like I said in my earlier post!

                Also, when I was running your config.g, I realised you must have leadscrews on your X axis, with the steps per mm of 400. However, at the speeds the axis was hitting during jogging (100mm at F6000), I got motor phase disconnection warnings, which can happen if the motor is turning faster than it can cope with, and will lead to missed steps. I was using some standard NEMA17 motors. If you are, I'd set your X axis speed limit a bit lower.

                Ian

                Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

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                • wingtipundefined
                  wingtip
                  last edited by

                  SUCCESS!!!!! WOOHOOO..... 😂

                  finally.... everything as far as the x axis is concerned is working as it should now. Thank you so much everyone. now i feel safe enough to install the cross beams to physically connect the two vertical posts.

                  I did get the errors you were mentioning as well... i can slow them down or up the current i suppose but i already had them to 1000 mah if i recall... what would you suggest for a max for nema 17s on lead screws... with two motors on the x it should be able to move x around without breaking a sweat... lol

                  Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

                  Phaedruxundefined droftartsundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • Phaedruxundefined
                    Phaedrux Moderator @wingtip
                    last edited by

                    @wingtip said in Issues setting up duet wifi with dual x axis motors and endstops:

                    what would you suggest for a max for nema 17s

                    It's recommended to target 70-85% of max rated motor current. You can go as high as 100% of rated but the motors will get quite hot.

                    Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                    • droftartsundefined
                      droftarts administrators @wingtip
                      last edited by

                      @wingtip Are you running a 24V PSU? Mine is on 12V, but 24V will more than likely help you achieve higher speeds. See https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_How_to_work_out_the_power_supply_voltage_you_need

                      Ian

                      Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                      wingtipundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • wingtipundefined
                        wingtip @droftarts
                        last edited by wingtip

                        @droftarts

                        wow thats a lot of math. Im not trying to calculate a launch window and trajectory to mars..... lol.. That page talks about 150mm/s on 12v and mine is on 12v, 1000amp supply... dude im used to printing at a max of 40mm /s right now... if i got 80mm/s and kept accuracy i'd pee my pants with excitement....

                        If you guys want to see what im working on that requires a larger printer than my FT5..take a peek here... this is a collection of photos over the past several years of designing and redesigning, printing, redesigning, re printing, tired of paying others to print then build my own printer, then start building my big printer lol
                        https://www.flickr.com/photos/52018479@N03/sets/72157662139793862

                        Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • Phaedruxundefined
                          Phaedrux Moderator
                          last edited by

                          You're making a model of Wet Nellie!?

                          Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                          wingtipundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • wingtipundefined
                            wingtip @Phaedrux
                            last edited by

                            @Phaedrux not just a model a functional model...

                            https://youtu.be/cqnuijMqxbc part 1 (a lil boring but demonstrate some of the radio functions)
                            https://youtu.be/PQtJsHgfmHI part 2

                            Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

                            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                            • droftartsundefined
                              droftarts administrators
                              last edited by

                              @wingtip I saw that your profile image was the James Bond Lotus Esprit sub, but didn't realise you were making one!

                              Ian

                              Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

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                              • wingtipundefined
                                wingtip
                                last edited by

                                Heres a quick video showing you the printer ... thank you everyone.
                                https://youtu.be/fqf0_rCpsmg

                                Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

                                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • Phaedruxundefined
                                  Phaedrux Moderator
                                  last edited by

                                  Looking good. Keep us posted on your progress. And feel free to ask for any help as you go.

                                  Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                                  • wescundefined
                                    wesc
                                    last edited by

                                    @wingtip I'm fighting the same issues with dual X and dual Y motors. Can you post your final config.g and homeall.g (or homex.g)? Might be able to figure out my problem without needing to make a new post.

                                    Thanks.

                                    CroXY - Crossed Gantry Printer, Ultibots D300VS+, Custom CoreXYU

                                    wingtipundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • wingtipundefined
                                      wingtip @wesc
                                      last edited by

                                      @wesc I believe these to be my current config... id have to double check at a later time but these were my backup files so i think i had updated them when i last was messing with it... im still building/ modelling the printer so its not finished.

                                      homeall.g config.g

                                      Highly modified FT5 R1, ATX supply, mosfet w/silicone heat pad, bmg ext, TMC2600 drivers, and my custom quad z mod with 4 lead screws and custom cut new upper panels and bed, and using the dual z endstop mod. New project is 800x500x500z printer.

                                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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