any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?
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Use a D-Sub whatever, with pins in parallel for the heater.
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Another vote for the D-sub, but the regular 2-row type. Much easier to solder on, more robust pins.
D-subs are very robust connectors for very little money.There is also a smaller XT connector BTW: the XT30.
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Was about to ask a very similar questions but minus the probe, Dsub 15 looks like it'll do the trick very nicely!
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I would still recommend the Molex Microfit 3.0 series which can be had unto 24 way so more than enough also much lighter than D-Sub connectors.
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I use the microfits in other places and like them but I also use RJ45 for the hot-end signal and low power stuff and simple spade connectors for the hot-end.
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@Dougal1957 said in any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?:
Molex Microfit 3.0 series
I've used these on other things, and they do work very well. Were it me, I'd be comfortable with my own "psuedo-standard" connector for a standard tool, meaning:
- Stepper (4)
- Sensor/thermistor (2)
- Heater (2)
- Hot end fan (2)
- Part fan (2)
- Sensor for tool alignment(2)
Total 14, with no allowance for future expansion.
From USA supplier Mouser, 16 position are actually slightly cheaper than 14, and I like the expansion possibility:
With no expansion, and no extra sensor, 10 position will work.
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thanks guys, haven't though about using molex, but it actually makes sense. way easier to handle than dsubs and more flexible!
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@matt3o Not sure if this would work for you (see pics).
Using extension/adapter cables or adding connectors to a harness adds bulk and creates potential failure points.
I found this method to be the best. If anything needs to be changed, its simple. Supports up to 16 terminal points.
All that's missing is a printed label plaque
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@bricor thanks, that is also pretty clever and super easy if you need to change parts
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Check out this project:
https://www.hackster.io/viktorsilivanov/quick-swap-board-for-3d-printer-hotend-fb26e4@matt3o I'd be interested to know where you found that cable.
I had some boards made and have populated but not installed yet, they'll be part of a new build.
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Just a thought, you can distribute high currents over two wires and/or contacts. This may give you more flexibility. Also, Some wires can be merged, e.g. the +24V for heater and fans.
(Duet people mentioned in the past a possibility for smart head board that just need power and CANBUS data, this would make requirements like yours easier to solve).
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@littlehobbyshop that is very close that what I was planning to do, with less fancy PCB and more DIY
The cable is from a local supplier but I believe they can be easily found. They are sold as "security/alarm cables" they come in many variants.
@zapta at the moment I'm only sharing the positive leads of the fans, that's all I need but I'll check what else I could share. thanks!
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So I decide to go the Molex Microfit way on a toolchanger. Purchased Molex 16 pin, m/f, pins, etc. Pleasantly enough, they were smaller than I'd thought.
This is working out well, the connectors are great... but... do be aware it is labor intensive. Every wire going to a tool now requires three crimps. One for the Duet board, one for the male molex, and one for the female molex. I haven't even gotten one tool completely setup!
Not saying anyone should/shouldn't... just be aware.
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@Danal they are indeed smaller than I thought!
I got used to crimping, that wouldn't be a big issue. Still not sure if I want to go with a more polished solution (like the one posted by @littlehobbyshop ).
I've also found connectors with dedicated pins for power, but let's not go overboard
thanks for your report btw!
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I'm using Wago 221 for everything.
This relieves me from soldering and I can throw out the old fans without working.
