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    any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?

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    • DaBitundefined
      DaBit
      last edited by

      Another vote for the D-sub, but the regular 2-row type. Much easier to solder on, more robust pins.
      D-subs are very robust connectors for very little money.

      There is also a smaller XT connector BTW: the XT30.

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      • oliverracingundefined
        oliverracing
        last edited by

        Was about to ask a very similar questions but minus the probe, Dsub 15 looks like it'll do the trick very nicely!

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        • Dougal1957undefined
          Dougal1957
          last edited by

          I would still recommend the Molex Microfit 3.0 series which can be had unto 24 way so more than enough also much lighter than D-Sub connectors.

          Microfit 3.0 series

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          • gtj0undefined
            gtj0
            last edited by

            I use the microfits in other places and like them but I also use RJ45 for the hot-end signal and low power stuff and simple spade connectors for the hot-end.

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            • Danalundefined
              Danal
              last edited by

              @Dougal1957 said in any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?:

              Molex Microfit 3.0 series

              I've used these on other things, and they do work very well. Were it me, I'd be comfortable with my own "psuedo-standard" connector for a standard tool, meaning:

              • Stepper (4)
              • Sensor/thermistor (2)
              • Heater (2)
              • Hot end fan (2)
              • Part fan (2)
              • Sensor for tool alignment(2)

              Total 14, with no allowance for future expansion.

              From USA supplier Mouser, 16 position are actually slightly cheaper than 14, and I like the expansion possibility:

              Receptacle Pins
              Plug Pins

              With no expansion, and no extra sensor, 10 position will work.

              Delta / Kossel printer fanatic

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              • matt3oundefined
                matt3o
                last edited by

                thanks guys, haven't though about using molex, but it actually makes sense. way easier to handle than dsubs and more flexible!

                bricorundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • bricorundefined
                  bricor @matt3o
                  last edited by

                  @matt3o Not sure if this would work for you (see pics).

                  IMG_9232.jpg
                  IMG_9230.jpg
                  IMG_9229.jpg

                  Using extension/adapter cables or adding connectors to a harness adds bulk and creates potential failure points.

                  I found this method to be the best. If anything needs to be changed, its simple. Supports up to 16 terminal points.

                  All that's missing is a printed label plaque

                  matt3oundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                  • matt3oundefined
                    matt3o @bricor
                    last edited by

                    @bricor thanks, that is also pretty clever and super easy if you need to change parts

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                    • littlehobbyshopundefined
                      littlehobbyshop
                      last edited by

                      Check out this project:
                      https://www.hackster.io/viktorsilivanov/quick-swap-board-for-3d-printer-hotend-fb26e4

                      @matt3o I'd be interested to know where you found that cable.

                      I had some boards made and have populated but not installed yet, they'll be part of a new build.
                      26365810-5c75-43cc-aca8-efaef310edad-image.png

                      BLV MGN Cube w/Hemera, K8200, Sunlu S8

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                      • zaptaundefined
                        zapta
                        last edited by

                        Just a thought, you can distribute high currents over two wires and/or contacts. This may give you more flexibility. Also, Some wires can be merged, e.g. the +24V for heater and fans.

                        (Duet people mentioned in the past a possibility for smart head board that just need power and CANBUS data, this would make requirements like yours easier to solve).

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                        • matt3oundefined
                          matt3o
                          last edited by matt3o

                          @littlehobbyshop that is very close that what I was planning to do, with less fancy PCB and more DIY 🙂 The cable is from a local supplier but I believe they can be easily found. They are sold as "security/alarm cables" they come in many variants.

                          @zapta at the moment I'm only sharing the positive leads of the fans, that's all I need but I'll check what else I could share. thanks!

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                          • Danalundefined
                            Danal
                            last edited by

                            So I decide to go the Molex Microfit way on a toolchanger. Purchased Molex 16 pin, m/f, pins, etc. Pleasantly enough, they were smaller than I'd thought.

                            This is working out well, the connectors are great... but... do be aware it is labor intensive. Every wire going to a tool now requires three crimps. One for the Duet board, one for the male molex, and one for the female molex. I haven't even gotten one tool completely setup!

                            Not saying anyone should/shouldn't... just be aware.

                            IMG_0214.jpeg

                            Delta / Kossel printer fanatic

                            matt3oundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • matt3oundefined
                              matt3o @Danal
                              last edited by

                              @Danal they are indeed smaller than I thought!

                              I got used to crimping, that wouldn't be a big issue. Still not sure if I want to go with a more polished solution (like the one posted by @littlehobbyshop ).

                              I've also found connectors with dedicated pins for power, but let's not go overboard 🙂

                              thanks for your report btw!

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                              • avion23undefined
                                avion23
                                last edited by

                                I'm using Wago 221 for everything.

                                This relieves me from soldering and I can throw out the old fans without working.

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