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    any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?

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    • Dougal1957undefined
      Dougal1957
      last edited by

      I would still recommend the Molex Microfit 3.0 series which can be had unto 24 way so more than enough also much lighter than D-Sub connectors.

      Microfit 3.0 series

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      • gtj0undefined
        gtj0
        last edited by

        I use the microfits in other places and like them but I also use RJ45 for the hot-end signal and low power stuff and simple spade connectors for the hot-end.

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        • Danalundefined
          Danal
          last edited by

          @Dougal1957 said in any suggestion for a connector for the printhead?:

          Molex Microfit 3.0 series

          I've used these on other things, and they do work very well. Were it me, I'd be comfortable with my own "psuedo-standard" connector for a standard tool, meaning:

          • Stepper (4)
          • Sensor/thermistor (2)
          • Heater (2)
          • Hot end fan (2)
          • Part fan (2)
          • Sensor for tool alignment(2)

          Total 14, with no allowance for future expansion.

          From USA supplier Mouser, 16 position are actually slightly cheaper than 14, and I like the expansion possibility:

          Receptacle Pins
          Plug Pins

          With no expansion, and no extra sensor, 10 position will work.

          Delta / Kossel printer fanatic

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          • matt3oundefined
            matt3o
            last edited by

            thanks guys, haven't though about using molex, but it actually makes sense. way easier to handle than dsubs and more flexible!

            bricorundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • bricorundefined
              bricor @matt3o
              last edited by

              @matt3o Not sure if this would work for you (see pics).

              IMG_9232.jpg
              IMG_9230.jpg
              IMG_9229.jpg

              Using extension/adapter cables or adding connectors to a harness adds bulk and creates potential failure points.

              I found this method to be the best. If anything needs to be changed, its simple. Supports up to 16 terminal points.

              All that's missing is a printed label plaque

              matt3oundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • matt3oundefined
                matt3o @bricor
                last edited by

                @bricor thanks, that is also pretty clever and super easy if you need to change parts

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                • littlehobbyshopundefined
                  littlehobbyshop
                  last edited by

                  Check out this project:
                  https://www.hackster.io/viktorsilivanov/quick-swap-board-for-3d-printer-hotend-fb26e4

                  @matt3o I'd be interested to know where you found that cable.

                  I had some boards made and have populated but not installed yet, they'll be part of a new build.
                  26365810-5c75-43cc-aca8-efaef310edad-image.png

                  BLV MGN Cube w/Hemera, K8200, Sunlu S8

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                  • zaptaundefined
                    zapta
                    last edited by

                    Just a thought, you can distribute high currents over two wires and/or contacts. This may give you more flexibility. Also, Some wires can be merged, e.g. the +24V for heater and fans.

                    (Duet people mentioned in the past a possibility for smart head board that just need power and CANBUS data, this would make requirements like yours easier to solve).

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                    • matt3oundefined
                      matt3o
                      last edited by matt3o

                      @littlehobbyshop that is very close that what I was planning to do, with less fancy PCB and more DIY 🙂 The cable is from a local supplier but I believe they can be easily found. They are sold as "security/alarm cables" they come in many variants.

                      @zapta at the moment I'm only sharing the positive leads of the fans, that's all I need but I'll check what else I could share. thanks!

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                      • Danalundefined
                        Danal
                        last edited by

                        So I decide to go the Molex Microfit way on a toolchanger. Purchased Molex 16 pin, m/f, pins, etc. Pleasantly enough, they were smaller than I'd thought.

                        This is working out well, the connectors are great... but... do be aware it is labor intensive. Every wire going to a tool now requires three crimps. One for the Duet board, one for the male molex, and one for the female molex. I haven't even gotten one tool completely setup!

                        Not saying anyone should/shouldn't... just be aware.

                        IMG_0214.jpeg

                        Delta / Kossel printer fanatic

                        matt3oundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • matt3oundefined
                          matt3o @Danal
                          last edited by

                          @Danal they are indeed smaller than I thought!

                          I got used to crimping, that wouldn't be a big issue. Still not sure if I want to go with a more polished solution (like the one posted by @littlehobbyshop ).

                          I've also found connectors with dedicated pins for power, but let's not go overboard 🙂

                          thanks for your report btw!

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                          • avion23undefined
                            avion23
                            last edited by

                            I'm using Wago 221 for everything.

                            This relieves me from soldering and I can throw out the old fans without working.

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