I have a slice thermistor too and my educated guess is that it's not reliable at (very) low temps. It makes sense being a thermistor for high temps. I added H6 option to add 6 degrees in the low end, but it's purely cosmetic.
I checked with a thermal camera and I'd say as soon as you reach 100C the reading is accurate.
okay I was ready to swap the wifi module but before that I tried to just "extend" the antenna... believe it or not it worked. I hadn't a single disconnect since
Basically cut the onboard antenna and soldered a new one. The antenna must be of a very specific length (check 2.4 antenna length) but apart from that it's a 5 minutes hack.
Now, I don't suggest to anyone doing that... but it worked for me.
So I got this texture on a corexy I've built. It's 3x leadscrews+rails.
The pattern looked very regular, so I thought z wobble.
Changed z motor mounts, leadscrews, couplers aaaand... same result. Nothing changed at ALL.
Pulled the trigger and bought a digital microscope.
I printed a 1-wall cube. This is the result of two opposite sides (sections).
What the hell is going on? The wobble in just on one side of the wall?! Help me Duet3d Forum, you are my only hope!
Extruder is bondtech. Extruder motor I tried with a 1.8 moons and a 0.9 LDO. Nozzle is brand new high quality. If I change layer height the "wobble" seems to be the same (that's why I thought it was caused by the z axis).
I have 2 part fans connected together and 1 thermally controlled tool fan, they are all 12v connected to the duex5. I'm in a corexy setup and thinking of reducing the number of wires that go from the head to the duetwifi/duex5.
It is my understanding that the positive lead is shared with all fans. My idea was to use just 1 pos and 2 negs. On the duet side I'm connecting the 2 part fans together to one header (+ and -) and the tool fan to another header (just the negative since the positive is shared on the other header). Does it make sense? Does that impact on the total max amperage? Just wanted to check this config with you before burning my duet 
Thanks!
PS: I wanted to add that both this forum and the wiki are an incredible source of knowledge, I was able to go from zero to full functioning corexy by just RTFM so thanks guys!
this is very interesting, following this thread.
I'll have a look at your code soon and possibly compile it on Linux.
Keep up with the good work
@arhi said in I thought it was z wobble...:
I can't see from the images, is the issue parallel to the XY plane or is it under angle)
they look pretty much parallel.
@mrehorstdmd said in I thought it was z wobble...:
So the line width is varying but only to one side...
Is the hot-end perpendicular to the bed?
yes but the width variation is not always on the same side. if the head wasn't leveled shouldn't the wavy lines be always on the same side?
but I'll double check that. Thanks!
How tightly screwed down is the drive gear adjustment screw on the extruder?
I tried to make it very loose and very tight but I can't say I noticed much difference.
Are the drive gears clean?
Brand new.
How consistent is the diameter of the filament you're using?
I'll double check that but it is supposed to be good quality.
Are you using any pressure advance or nonlinear extrusion?
No, I disabled everything while testing.
PS: just wanted to thank you @mrehorstdmd for your great blog, I've built my printer mostly thank to your posts
@mrehorstdmd said in I thought it was z wobble...:
@matt3o Thanks!
Is there any play in the extruder carriage bearing block or in the mounting of the X axis rail?
Are pulley and motor mounts solid?
the extruder is mounted on hiwin rail+carriage and I'd say it's pretty solid. The pulleys are mounted on shoulder bolts secured on top and bottom.
The only thing I'm not sure about is the belt tension. It feels very tight on the short side (on the X connecting to the head) and slightly floppy on the long side (on the Y). It's a 400x400 printer. But I don't see any vertical banding... so I guess it's okay
unfortunately I don't see any difference in printing in the corners... also giving more amps to the extruder doesn't seem to work...
(╯°□°）╯︵ ┻━┻
@Phaedrux sure, I'll take some pics later. In the meantime I can show you the 3d model with a few details
@fcwilt I just didn't want to give a bad review to a product that doesn't deserve it. Anyway it was the flexdrive g5. I spent months tinkering with it and the support from the author was stellar. At the end I went back to direct drive because I couldn't get rid of some surface texture I was getting. Mind you I still get some surface texture with a direct drive, but definitely less marked.
Being the technology of this kind of extruders very simple my guess is that I wouldn't get much benefit from a Nimble, but of course I could be wrong and in a world of unlimited cash I would try them all
So yes, I am designing bit slower in freecad (for now) but that's fault of mine not of freecads
I see that you are implying my inadequacy at parametric cad which is... totally true 
but time to learn the software is still time. But I switched to inkscape (that now I actually prefer to illustrator... in certain aspects), to librecad (which is totally fine for what I need) and gimp (well, that still hurts)... freecad and blender are the last missing pieces...
Now wrt freeCAD being slower to work with, when was the last time you tried?
I'm on .19-pre, I update the appimage every now and then. Very usable overall, but still way slower to design anything especially if you have complex composites.
When I have simple things to do I try to use it so to lower my dependency to onshape and to slowly get used to it. Also being able to work completely off-line is a huge plus. If onshape starts to do shitty things like fusion is doing I'll very quickly switch though
gosh I'd love to use freecad on a regular basis, I find it to be usable and at the end you can design basically anything, the only problem is that it takes three times the time than with onshape (my weapon of choice). As a maker I don't care if my designs end up to the public domain, actually I like that, but I understand that onshape might close or limit functionalities at any time, so it's good to keep an eye on really open alternatives.
Still as a hobbyist I have very limited time and knowing I have to spend half a hour on something it may take 5 minutes it's really painful.
I'll see if I can help freecad development (being with code, docs or money) in the hope it will get a better workflow with time.
Anything thanks @arhi for the shout out
@CaLviNx said in corexy with bowden on top?:
The pattern you have simulated is usually cased by a resonant frequency of something
Every extruder has a fingerprint, that is the one on your printer. I'm not trying to find the flaw, I was trying to see if the pattern was similar to mine, but it's completely different.
@CaLviNx looks very good from your picture. My texture was actually visible only in certain light conditions (otherwise it looked good).
I tried to "enhance" your picture to see if I could simulate those conditions and got this.
It's not what I expected but interesting nonetheless Did you increase speed in the middle on the cube?
@fcwilt said in corexy with bowden on top?:
How did you know what was causing that effect?
literally months of trials and errors. I tried to replace every single piece of my poor little machine (and still working on it, bowden is the only thing I still have to try)
PS: I'm currently on a mosquito and can only say good things about it
@fcwilt said in corexy with bowden on top?:
Do you have a picture of this effect you are talking about?
You can see an example here . If you try the flexdrive please let me know how it works compared to the Nimble. A friend of mine has both and he finds the flexdrive better (he says the flexible shaft is better built).
@CaLviNx said in corexy with bowden on top?:
And as i already stated above I would hazard to say you had a negative experience with the "flexdrive" extruder, I have one and it is terrible.
you are probably right, but for every 10 people who say that the nimble is better I find 10 who say the flexdrive is better, so at the end I guess it's not that objective (by that I mean that it probably depends on your machine/configuration and ultimately experience).
@fcwilt I just didn't want to give a bad review to a product that doesn't deserve it. Anyway it was the flexdrive g5. I spent months tinkering with it and the support from the author was stellar. At the end I went back to direct drive because I couldn't get rid of some surface texture I was getting. Mind you I still get some surface texture with a direct drive, but definitely less marked.
Being the technology of this kind of extruders very simple my guess is that I wouldn't get much benefit from a Nimble, but of course I could be wrong and in a world of unlimited cash I would try them all
@CaLviNx The nimble is not the only extruder based on flexible shaft + worm gear on the market. Not sure why you need to go personal on this, I already said I'm not a reliable source and that I haven't tried the Nimble (but I tried another remote-direct drive).
@fcwilt the nimble is not the only flexible shaft extruder out-there
