Head temperature 500 ° not reached

deckingman

@saymtech Use a higher wattage heater

PS. Out of curiosity, what material are you planning on printing that needs 500 deg C?

saymtech

@deckingman
Thanks for your reply.

I don't know, it's for a client. But we have already managed to go up to 500 ° c with 40 watts, on a marlin motherboard.

dc42

I would not expect to be able to reach 500C using a 40 watt heater unless you have a silicone sock or other thermal insulation over the heater block - but a silicone sock is not rated to 500C.

Perhaps your Marlin motherboard wasn't reporting high temperatures accurately?

dgrat

I think that E3D does not support 500 degree for their standard cartridges.
There are problems:

Aluminium gets soft
Thermal expansion
Material degradation

I feel, >300 degree is the point where stuff becomes quiet dangerous.
Some cartridges from third party vendors felt apart already at >=260 degree.

infiniteloop

@saymtech said in Head temperature 500 ° not reached:

But we have already managed to go up to 500 °

If you want to print at 500 Deg., this is your man.

dc42

@dgrat said in Head temperature 500 ° not reached:

I think that E3D does not support 500 degree for their standard cartridges.
There are problems:

Aluminium gets soft

Thermal expansion

Material degradation

I feel, >300 degree is the point where stuff becomes quiet dangerous.
Some cartridges from third party vendors felt apart already at >=260 degree.

E3D sells copper heater blocks for high temperatures, see https://e3d-online.com/v6-plated-copper-heater-block. They also sell titanium heat breaks, which will reduce the heat conducted away from the heater block.

andornot

My delta reaches 450 degrees no problem with an e3d online hotend, not tried 500 yet, but there are no plastics that i am aware of that need that temperature.

richardmckenna

@infiniteloop Freedomheight! Never understood it, read the wiki page, still don't understand it. The description on how he devised the calibration points is just so random.

0°F for when ice and salty water are in equilibrium (fair enough), 30°F for when ice is just starting to form on the surface of water (why 30?) and 90°F for the temperature under your arm pit or in your mouth (hmm ok).

Phaedrux

Might want to look at a Dyze hotend for such high temp applications.

https://dyzedesign.com/

There is no way I would trust a V6 style block and cartridge at anything much over 300c. It's just not the intended application.

dc42

@Phaedrux said in Head temperature 500 ° not reached:

There is no way I would trust a V6 style block and cartridge at anything much over 300c. It's just not the intended application.

Some variants of the hot ends that E3D sells most certainly are intended and used for high temperatures. I'm not at liberty to disclose the details (and I don't have them all); but the copper hot end blocks, titanium heat breaks, and thermocouple sensors that they sell may be relevant.

Personally I wouldn't use a thermistor to cover a wide temperature range, because the accuracy and resolution will be poor at both ends of the range; whereas PT100 and thermocouple sensors can give good results at all temperatures within their ratings.

Phaedrux

@dc42 Thanks for the insight.

JRDM

Maybe try tuning it to a temperature it more easily reaches? Deadtime autotune has time limits. Deadtime heating algorithm seems much less sensitive to tuning temperature than PID anyway.

Maybe make sure your thermal sensor settings are reasonably good, find some means of verifying the temperature such as embedding a thermocouple probe in the block at the same time.