My corexy hbot configurations and build pictures
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@Veti
this i had no clue i needed to fix. what do i need to do to fix this ? -
find out what thermistors you have and look in the spec sheet and find the beta value.
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@Veti
ahhhh , i had to configer these in marlin as a 6 on the old prusa
i think that was a 100k -
nearly all thermistors used today are 100k
marlin 6 is
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6 : 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup)
not a good starting point.
where did you buy the thermistors?
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@Veti
think it came with the prusa, i3 clone from folgertech a few tears ago!! -
the prusa i3 clone comes with a mk8 hotend. are you still using that?
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@Veti has been parted out long ago.
after reading up on this thermister stuff, i see what you are trying to get after.
i dont think i have the info, but can find out by using a temp probe . Or just ordering some from amazon that the values are known. -
if you can establish the resistance at certain temperatures, then that would be perfect.
measure the resistance at something like 25, 120 and 240.
then use the https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Heaters click on the Beta value, select custom and enter those values.
It will calculate B and C for you. That would be more accurate as thermistors have variations that can lead to +/- 10 C.Failing to do that you can buy a thermistor.
Preferable a Semitec 104-GT2.
I personally use a PT1000 (no daughter board necessary) for hotend and bed. -
@Veti said in My corexy hbot configurations and build pictures:
f you can establish the resistance at certain temperatures, then that would be perfect.
measure the resistance at something like 25, 120 and 240.
then use the https://configtool.reprapfirmware.org/Heaters click on the Beta value, select custom and enter those values.
It will calculate B and C for you. That would be more accurate as thermistors have variations that can lead to +/- 10 C.
Failing to do that you can buy a thermistor.
Preferable a Semitec 104-GT2.
I personally use a PT1000 (no daughter board necessary) for hotend and bedi understand, even with my current setup, i notice, its always overshooting the temp around 10 degrees, but then adjusts it to where it needs to be.
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@tracar
that is an indication that you need to adjust the pid tuning.see
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_controlIf during initial heating the temperature undershoots the target, reduce the A parameter. If it overshoots the target, increase the A parameter. Try increasing/decreasing it by 5% or 10%.
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so 3724.2 would be a good starting point
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@Veti said in My corexy hbot configurations and build pictures:
what about
M303 H1 S240 ; auto tune heater 1, default PWM, 240C target or maximum temperature
M303 ; report the auto-tune status or last result
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yes and save those values in your config.g
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the results of the M303 H1 S240
M307 H1 was used to get this info after the M303 H1 S240:
Heater 1 model: gain 869.9, time constant 308.4, dead time 3.1, max PWM 1.00, calibration voltage 24.2, mode PID, inverted no, frequency default
Computed PID parameters for setpoint change: P20.7, I0.672, D44.3
Computed PID parameters for load change: P20.does it auto save this info? or how and where do i add this
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Is it H-bot or corexy? AFAIK, it can't be both...
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@mrehorstdmd hbot
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so after auto tuning and creating this :
M307 H1 A869.9 C308.4 D3.1 V24.2 B0
where in the config.g do i place it?
what is the B0? for -
@tracar said in My corexy hbot configurations and build pictures:
where in the config.g do i place it?
after the
M950 H1
commandB0 Disables Bang Bang and enables PID mode.
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@Veti said in My corexy hbot configurations and build pictures:
M950 H1
im still on firmware version 2.03 -
you should at least update to 2.0.5.1. That should work without config adjustment.
However at some point you have to invest the time to update to rrf3