Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?

jbirley

@Veti Cheers, I will try that, I did not notice I forgot to add drive 4 when I setup the independent Z motors and I will disable stealthchop on the extruder and give it a go. I don't see how changing the V param to increase the speed and which is changes to speadcycle is going to help though? unless I'm missing something which is entirely possible.

Veti

the switching to spreadcycle at higher speed can cause problem. even layer shifts.
so its best to either leave the default very low switchover or use a high one that does not cause a switchover

jbirley

Thanks all for the help so far, the last changes got me some progress, not perfect but enough to give me hope that all is not lost

top picture is the most recent print in both images, exact same gcode file.

banding has definitely gone down and the surfaces are much improved, its is still by no means what I would consider good though.

droftarts

@jbirley I have to ask... is this a genuine Duet3D Maestro, or a clone board? I’ve seen people have issues with clone boards. Also, can you post the (presumably) Marlin config the printer had before. What version of RRF? Send M115 and post response. Have you tried the default stealthchop/spreadcycle settings, ie remove M569 H and V parameters? Having the change at high speed will produce an audible clunk, and as @Veti points out, a loss of position. I don’t think I’ve ever needed to mess with the default setting on a Maestro.

Ian

jbirley

@droftarts Hi, yes genuine Duet Maestro board bought through ooznest UK, genuine v6 hotend (copper block, titanium heatbreak, 0.4mm nozzle X). Printer ships with a makerbase robin nano which was running what i believe to be a modified version of Marlin but I don't have a copy of it. Running latest version of firmware (m115 output: FIRMWARE_NAME: RepRapFirmware for Duet 2 Maestro FIRMWARE_VERSION: 3.2 ELECTRONICS: Duet Maestro 1.0 FIRMWARE_DATE: 2021-01-05) but also had the same issues when running RRF2.

I have tried the defaults straight out of the config tool with regards to stealthchop. However its a corexy with linear rails and a V6 on a bowden, its moving very little weight around so there is no reason that it should not be able to cope in stealthchop at the 60mm/s i'm printing at and since the printer is about 1m from my desk it needs be as quiet as possible which is why i bought the duet.

I have had this board on two machines now with no common components across them other than the duet, they both printed fine without it but produce the same artefacts with it, so that rules out any mechanical issues. So that leaves me with electronics, config, or slicing i guess. Starting to pull my hair out now.

jbirley

I have just forced all the motors to spreadcycle and trying a test print now.

engikeneer

@jbirley have you checked what the accel/speed/jerk settings were on either of the Marlin boards to compare? Just plug the boards in via USB and use YAT to see what they report to M205 etc. Would at least let you compare apples to apples!

jbirley

@droftarts That is a good shout i will do that

jbirley

Unfortunately forcing the motors to spreadcycle did very little.

The cube on the right was printed with stealthchop, the cube on the left with the motors set to spreadcycle with M569 D2. Both printed at 40mm/s including travels.

jbirley

@droftarts previous settings were:

Accel : 1000mm/s XY 100mm/s Z
Speeds: 200mm/s XY 4mm/s Z
Jerk: 15mm/s XY 0.4mm/s Z and 5mm/s E

converting them into mm/min the values are close enough to what was set already.

Rushmere3D

@jbirley Although I still think the motor current is on the high side, have you tried different filament? All the prints from Duet hardware you've shown are white and the other prints are not. I've had filament cause issues like this, just a thought.

droftarts

@jbirley thanks for the answers, and sorry this is proving difficult to track down. Another option, if you feel there is a flakey driver, is to move the drives onto different drivers eg M584 Z0:1 E2 X3 Y4
If a test print is still the same, it’s not a driver issue.

Can you also send M569 P# (where # is the driver number) with no additional parameters to see the current driver settings.

I also assume you are resetting after each change to config.g to ensure the new settings are being used?

Finally, try setting/changing the jerk policy; set P1 in your M566 command for Marlin-like jerk.

Ian

jbirley

@Rushmere3D I left the motor current high on purpose, they are 1.7A motors so 1200ma is roughly 70% of max current. I was under the impression the only downside to running high current was extra heat and wear on the motor provided you are within the limits of the board and motors. since there was a possibility it was missing steps i left them high to remove it as a factor, i have tried them at 800 / 900 and 1000ma also though with no improvement. once i have it sorted it will start dropping them to see at what point it misses steps for long term printing though. I will change the spool for the next test just in case but i have had this behaviour with other spools so did not see much point in changing filaments for each test, again trying to keep the amount of variables down.

@droftarts M569 P1 returns

Drive 1 runs forwards, active low enable, timing fast, mode spreadCycle, ccr 0x00053, toff 3, tblank 0, hstart/hend/hdec 5/0/0, pos 680

i have left them in spreadcycle for now, again just to remove as many variables as possible.

I will move the motors around and give that a go

and yes i have been resetting after each change.

jbirley

Adding P1 to the M566 command seems to have provided some improvement. The far right is the before, middle is M566 P1, the green one is exactly the same just a different brand and colour of PLA.

It is not as obvious on the picture but in person there is a definite improvement

Veti

try reducing the e steps by 10% and see if that improves the print

jbirley

@Veti did not help unfortunately, I had calibrated the E steps previously, all dropping it did was ruin the dimensional accuracy of the cube and cause gaps in the top surface as you would expect with under extrusion

Veti

post a picture of your printer

Phaedrux

Is the filament unspooling smoothly or is it getting tugged around?

What is your seam alignment in the slicer?

Is the bed stable or does it wiggle easily?

lodger

@jbirley
I also have a Sapphire Pro i have converted with a duet and a V6. Are you still using to Clone BMG Extruder it came with.... If you have anything spare kicking around try change it.

jbirley

First off thanks all for any help and input so far, even if I'm not getting anywhere i appreciate people giving up their time to help. Unfortunately that is just where I'm getting, no where.

@Phaedrux The filament is fine it can easily unspool straight into the extruder, I have tried multiple seam alignments from aligned to random, along with multiple slicers (cura and prusa). The bed on the sapphire plus is supported on two edges so is much more rigid than a lot of Chinese coreXY machines and the bed level screws are down tight enough it does not really move around.

@lodger Yes it is the BMG clone that is shipped with it however I have also tried a titan extruder I had kicking about with no change.

As stated at the beginning this has been happening on two machines for me now, with the exact same issue, and both machines had been working fine before the duet. I "upgraded" the first with the duet because of the questionable saftey of the first machines electronics, and the second because I already had the duet so why would i not? However the fact they have both worked fine without it rules out it being a mechanical issue, there is no way it is z wobble, or a bad extruder, snagging filament etc because they have all been proven to work fine.

over the last few days i have tried, in no particular order, multiple filaments, multiple extruders, extruder tensions, changing jerk settings both higher and lower, changing acceleration settings both higher and lower, different temperature ranges, retraction settings, pressure advance settings, I have moved all of the motors around onto different drivers, checked belt tensions really anything that could produce banding on the Z axis like I'm getting that I could think of. It is not layer shifting as the bands appear the whole way around the prints rather than sticking out one side and in the other.

I have tried every suggestion everyone has made on the forums, one at a time and done a test print in between nothing has made any real improvements.

the above imagine is of two cubes printed back to back. The only difference between them is the worse one on the left was sliced at .1mm layer height, while the other at was .2 all other settings stayed the same.

The only thing i can see being wrong at this point is there is something wrong with my board. I just wish i had a second one kicking about i could swap to and stick the SD card in because that would prove it one way or the other. At this point I'm getting close to just tearing the duet back out and converting it back over to the makerbase board that it came with.