@pm7399 You have a total of 4 posts on here none of which are in a thread started by you.
You can't expect help if you don't ask for it, in the correct polite way. Myself and others are more than happy to spend our own free time to help but show some respect.
Firstly, what board do you have? What printer? Give us details of the actual problem.
J.
@shiga I'd imagine people will only tell you where to buy a genuine Duet product and without knowing where you are located that's not going to be possible.
The duet website lists the official resellers. https://www.duet3d.com/page/genuine-resellers
Hi all,
So I thought as I'm now a Duet3D convert I should post my new printer build. First this to say it's still very much a work in progress, it's going to be an iDEX printer but currently only has one tool carriage installed, while I get to grips with the firmware side of things. This is my first Duet3D board so it's be a learning experience but once I got my head around it, it's going well.
So spec are currently,
Duet 3 0.6 with 3.1.1 firmware with a raspberry pi 3B attached.
300mm on X, 270mm on Y and 300mm on Z.
It has a Prusa MK3 extruder on a magnetic carriage system, allowing for quick hotend swaps.
E3D V6 hotends 24v.
700W Keenovo 240V AC bed attached to a 5mm Aluminium Tooling Plate.
Bed leveling is via a PINDA v1 from my old MK2.
So when I say it's a D-Bot/CrusaXY mash up that basically means I used my 300mm D-Bot (Link) for parts to make the printer designed by Hunter Bernstein on thingiverse (Link). The parts I printed are version 1 and they have been updated but I'm going to use this for now. The idea behind Hunter's design is to use a Creality3D CR-10 S5 and convert it to an iDEX printer, I didn't have a CR-10 so when the D-Bot conversion route.
So on to some pictures, I will be updating this thread as I add the extra tool etc but for now this is what it looks like.
So as you can see I'm using a quick disconnect extruder board, these are connected with a 26pin ribbon cable and so far works great, I remixed some things of thingiverse to make a bracket that holds the cable and I used some flat 9.5x0.3mm spring steel to support the cable (Like the E3D tool changer)
Well that's about it for now, I'll post updates soon.
Thanks,
James.
@markz the other pins aren't soldered in by default now.
First few prints off the printer.
@deckingman they are heat press inserts, used a lot by the Voron community. You use a soldering iron to push them in, some have even created jigs to hold the iron, you can also get new tips to better hold the insert.
@obiwan2print post your config. Using the code formatting feature (</>)
I use Execonmode but installed it the original way and they guide I followed, sets up M7722 as a shutdown code.
@adam_sw3 That's the correct sensor, a temp sensor showing 2000°c is I believe a wiring fault somewhere.
@thedragonlord Not sure on max size, you can actually input two sizes in that box for example 16x16, 128x128.
@thedragonlord In the G-code thumbnails box put a size like 128x128 etc.
@thedragonlord PanelDue can only use QOI format, plus you need a size.
@thedragonlord What settings have you got in PrusaSlicer?
@anvil What command did you put in the console to PID the hotend? The one Jay gave was an example, you don't have a T1 so that wouldn't work.
@deckingman they are heat press inserts, used a lot by the Voron community. You use a soldering iron to push them in, some have even created jigs to hold the iron, you can also get new tips to better hold the insert.
@shiga I'd imagine people will only tell you where to buy a genuine Duet product and without knowing where you are located that's not going to be possible.
The duet website lists the official resellers. https://www.duet3d.com/page/genuine-resellers
@markz the other pins aren't soldered in by default now.
Is says at the top of the guide if the board isn't able to provide sufficient current on the 12v rail to use a separate 12v supply.