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    broken glass for too strong adesion but still warping

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    • giostarkundefined
      giostark @jens55
      last edited by

      @jens55
      thanks for your time 😊
      Mmmm...soon I'll open a 3d about my insulation and how I tried to uniform the temp of the circular glass ... It was fun but a little complicate found a working solution.
      Now I'm on FreeCAD re-drawing a new fan setup for install a powerful fan in the air mechanism.(now is a 80mm x 25mm with low performance that will be replaced with a 120mm x25mm with mid performance fan that could be replaced again with a hight performance one if not enough). Actually I reach 50 degree using 1/3 of the power of the fan resistor. I hope to reach at least 60-70 degree at full regime.
      I'll need also help for some coding in the automatic regulation of the chamber but I'll post there all the stuffs 🤓

      jens55undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jens55undefined
        jens55 @giostark
        last edited by

        @giostark, I think you might have just revealed the clue about your problem .... a fan. ABS is not happy about being printed in moving air.
        I get my chamber temperature simply from the heat of the build plate.

        giostarkundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • giostarkundefined
          giostark @jens55
          last edited by giostark

          @jens55
          My printer is 1m tall and the air come from the middle to the high direction in a diagonal of 45 degree. The square where come from the air is 4cm x 4cm. But the air is really hot (the resistor is now at 110 degree). Maybe the culprit is the 10% of the part fan that I leave always on that must be turned off?
          I read everywhere that if is totally off the fan generate problems for the overhangs and in general the part come a little distorted.
          But in my case I could have disable because the part didn't had overhang at all...
          I have some more test to do ! Soon as I finished I open that 3d for make all the situation more clear.
          I suspect that 10% of the turbofan on big parts is not good.
          20210612_193200.jpg
          20210707_175550.jpg

          jens55undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • MJLewundefined
            MJLew @giostark
            last edited by

            @giostark After a lot of mixed success and failures with ABS and ASA printing I tried FormFutura's Titan X ABS filament. It promised good first layers and no warping and, for me, it delivered both. More expensive (here in Aus) than most ABS filaments but, for me, well worth.

            giostarkundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • giostarkundefined
              giostark @MJLew
              last edited by giostark

              @mjlew
              Thanks for you suggestion I'll make a new try with the black roll I still have.
              In the past I used the ApolloX (ASA) from FomFutura. I have still a new roll to try. I remember that it had less warping but still present. (less than standard ABS for sure but still present). Now I'm using an ASA from the Azure Film and I didn't have idea if is good or not. (it was cheap I bought 4 roll at that time). I have still 4 rolls of this but white color. Could be the next attempt change the filament. I'll buy some new black rolls from FormFutura.

              edit: ordered 3 roll of apolloX black

              Dad003undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Dad003undefined
                Dad003 @giostark
                last edited by

                @giostark

                I used to use abs juice for adhesion and got same problem switched to magikgoo and now piece pop out when the bed is cold

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                • jens55undefined
                  jens55 @giostark
                  last edited by

                  @giostark said in broken glass for too strong adesion but still warping:

                  @jens55
                  Maybe the culprit is the 10% of the part fan that I leave always on that must be turned off?

                  Turn it off for the first layer !

                  giostarkundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • mrehorstdmdundefined
                    mrehorstdmd
                    last edited by

                    I have printed a LOT of ABS in a 50C chamber without warping. The chamber heater has a low flow fan just to ensure that the air circulates over the heater and well away from the print. It's a corexy printer so the heater is at the bottom of the chamber, far from the print- it might be hard to do that in a delta. I think you want to avoid a lot of air movement at 50C. If you could heat the chamber to the glass transition temperature of the ABS it might be OK to have more air flow, but that's going to require a lot of special work to enable the chamber to get that warm and not ruin other parts of the printer.

                    I use a PEI bed surface and don't have any problems getting ABS prints to stick or to let go. It works for PLA, TPU, and PETG, too.

                    You can buy/make glass that has artistic chips in it- do a search for "glue chip glass". It's an old, well known technique for chipping the surface of glass that the 3D printing world seems to have forgotten about.

                    https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

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                    • zaptaundefined
                      zapta
                      last edited by

                      You may find this video useful

                      https://youtu.be/eEOaA76WR0Q

                      Large diameter nozzle, high print temperature, slow printing, and draft shield.

                      jens55undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • jens55undefined
                        jens55 @zapta
                        last edited by

                        FYI, I use 250C for nozzle temperature.

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • giostarkundefined
                          giostark @jens55
                          last edited by

                          @jens55
                          Yep , I usually print the first 3 layer without the 10% ... (fan totally off).
                          @mrehorstdmd
                          Ok understood.
                          @zapta
                          Thanks for the link I'm looking it.
                          @Dad003
                          I could give it a try. But I the list I have to settle other stuff first.

                          Thanks to all for the contribution !

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