The post is still under construcion
look also 3 post below for the rest of the description !!!

This will take some time to explain with photos (i must still produce some of them) and descriptions... So for now I open the 3d.
I'll use this post as reminder for me, to do not forget all the steps I made and , maybe , it will be useful for other adventurer decide to puts ends on a such big delta printer.

1st and important... The Tevo company is terrible. I mean the back office for sure. In particular Kelly Zheng took 3 month for NOT send what she promised (and I paid). Paypal cover the funny joke.

2nd... the printer for became something close an accurate tool need lots of work and money to put in.

Inspirational :
https://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=4325#Upgrades

List of upgrade and modifications....

Hardware:

1. DuetWiFi + Duet LCD 7" (last firmware stable) + heat sink (with thermal pad T412) on parts could became hot.
2. Nema motors 0.9 (for 3 motors + extruder) + dumpers + 4 12v noctua 6cm for cooling with lamptron fan hub (with resistance for lower the fan speed)
3. Extruder (Bondtech)
4. Original D3D Hotend + Volcano extension + copper nozzle (Nickel coated) + silicon cover.
5. Original BLTouch v2
6. Belts with iron core
7. Full enclosure
8. End filament guide/sensor
9. Custom Borosilicate glass (41,5cm X 5mm) + adapters block (i'll provide the STL)
10. Cartridge modified for better precision and less torque.
11. Starting for the hot chamber solution... Double plexiglass (aluminum + double plexiglass + pvc + .... ) .

Software:
Slicer used ... Firmware Settings and so on...
For now I'm using Ultimacker Cura and Matterhacker doing tons of test for the better result. The Firmware I'm using the last stable 2.02. And I'll try to explain why I used those settings.

Filament used :
At today I have used 3 filament.
1)Formfutura Easyfill ABS
2)Patona ABS
3)Formfutura ApolloX (ASA)

I can say the Easyfill ABS was pretty good but suffer as all the ABS of retraction and therefore warping.
The Patona was pretty bad. Pop any time at any temp. Warping like hell. Cost half the Formfutura. But a shiny finish.
The ApolloX is a ASA material that have less problem of warping of ABS at the cost of a little less beautiful finish (small percentage against the Easyfill).
Less warping not mean none. So for object that have a big amount of layers ,placed as a corner , and a little surface of contact with the bed , you can experience some warping at the extreme corner. Any way very less than the other two ABS.

1. The pouring of all the cable was not so fast as I imagined. I little scared of cook everything at the end i succeeded.
   I putted the two mobo close each other and with a laptop on the side started slowly to move all the cables using white plastic scotch to sign what i was moving.

The two schema:

With lots of patience I toke a very small screwdriver and moved the cables from the old connectors to the new duet ones. Some one have catted come plastic on the old ones and plugged on the new board but instead of this I preferred to use the connectors that can stay blocked when inserted.
Other tricky stuff...the optical sensor have strange color wire. All different. So I looked at the schema and the polarity of the endstop (as in picture) and considered one endstop at ones as per se cabled.

2)The nema motors 0.9 . I soldered all the cables and covered it with thermo sheath . Some hot glue for blcok the cables that enter in the motor.
Applied a heat sink on each one with under a 3M thermal pad.
Recovered from old back covers of some computer case , 3 metal plate. Of course drilled.
Then I linked all the fans (also the mobo one , changed with a 12v one) to a 12v fan hub. And between of them I putted a potentiomenter for regulate the fan speed as i like. (the noctua at half speed are really silent).
Between the motor and the support I applied the classical nema dumpers.
I had to smooth the metal pivot (was full rounded) for a better block of the gears.

3. The Bondtech extruer. I have to say the bowden connection is a little lose, so make sure you insert the teflon hose well to the end.
   I just added on the top a little piece of hose for a better guide and for a convenient calibration. (using the digital caliper im far enough to do not touch anywhere during the operation)

4. Also if the chinese copy of the volcano D3D hotend was not that bad , I decided of put the original one. The TLM already have a volcano copy inside but with a small metal core and an old thermal sensor. All tensions are 12v.
   
   
   

5. The original BLTouch v2 is slightly different. It have a sturdy shell despite the copy is a little more thin. The original trigger is in plastic and not in metal. The copy writing are a little more faded. The original one should be more accurate.

6. Because of this article:
   https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/61j9et/i_tested_some_gt2_belts_to_failure_on_a_tensile/
   
   I choose to use the iron cored belts. They look more rigid but this absolutely dont impact in any bad mode to the movement. For Delta printer is suggested use those ones despite the standard ones just because the head is always in tension on the belts.
   

7)As I started with the intention of build ABS parts i read about the necessity of build an enclosure for keep the worm.
I used some aluminum bar . For the big windows I used 3mm plexiglass and for the smaller window I used the PVC material. All those parts , with the relative screw and rubbers are available in common DIY stores.
For the small windows I tried to use the plexy but it crack for vibration and torsion.
now with the black panels is more cool ^_^.
For the closing mechanism I used dome adhesive magnet.
I have done some holes on the top and bottom frame for block the corners that sustain the enclosure.

8)End filament guide/sensor , it is well explained here:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2629228
I just used the remix version for add the Teflon tube for a better guide and less friction.
Just keep attention at wall close the mechanical sensor. The must be super flat and i added also some grease for a perfect slide.

I found this that should be where you lies at this point:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connector_and_spare_part_numbers#Section_VSSA_fuse
But right now I'm not capable enough to give suggestions

OT/
Bot , so this is you !!! (just kidding )
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/fohhwo/muahahaha/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x
/OT

As told I added the top insulation.
And also added some clip because now the sponge create too much pressure on the magnetic closure.

The next step is build the air mechanism for the hot chamber

Ok Thomas.
Deck is right , you are using the v2 firmware with v3 settings.
For upgrade the firmware from 2 to 3 you have to make before 2.xx.x>3.0 then 3.0>3.1.1
If you have the panel due don't forghet to add this line on top :
M575 P1 S1 B57600; enable panel due to connect properly
Here all the info:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/RepRapFirmware_3_overview#Section_Summary_of_what_you_need_to_do_to_convert_your_configuration_and_other_files

ps:
damn ctrl+shift+enter had tripled the post...

Ok,
Also I suggest you to verify those alignments.
Those must be at the same equal distance.
Doing this I reached that the X and Y of M665 are gone from several decimal to some cents.
In those trap we must gain as much precision everywhere
In my case for obtain the more possible equal distance , I was not able to keep the tower aligned with the top frame.

Dear absolute !!!! Maybe you nailed it !

Look at this , the six rods:
1> -0.25
2> -0.25
3> -0.15
4> longhest
5> -0.1
6> -0.6 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Poor auto calibration , It cant reach those parameters.

From the Duet guide (and your linked pdf too):
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer
All 6 rods must be the same length, measured between bearing centers

If you are building the rods yourself, make them one by one in the same jig. If you are buying them, check that the supplier guarantees a maximum difference in rod length, which should be less than 0.1mm. It is particularly important that the rods in a pair are of matched lengths, because any difference will cause the effector to tilt.

I lost damn ages because I trusted the manufacturer REALLY My BAD ... I had should check this hundred time before all the attempt I made for calibrate it.
My mistake was : the product is already made , it will be good. Such a sheep.

Now what? Buy hundred of them to make sure found SIX equal ?!?!?!?!? Damn Tevo.

I feel so bad for wasted your time... All the people had helped here , damn ... sorry.
I should had to think as the printer was made by me and check ALL the steps as reported in the guide. Inexperience here docet.
Now I'll go check all the rest of the hardware hoping that the frame didnt have absurd variations

I'll keep you informed about the evolution of the story...

Ok,
I found the culprit. Electromagnetic fields.
I designed a new duct for the fan and everything worked fine , then I re-designed the duct for a more efficient flow and the fan now stay 5mm closer to the effector than before and tadaaaa , still this fan didn't want start. Same behavior.
Some blink trying to spin and nothing else.
So I took a common aluminium sheet (the cooking one) and bent on itself and finally placed on the perimeter of the fan and magically now it start to spin regular.

Hi all,
More or less noob questions...
Aside all the reading stuffs, I would like to know the direction on how to interpret the autocalibration results.
I leave the M666 to zero so that the autocal build all the parameters by it self all the times.
The length of the rods are fixed. 6 factor for the bed , max radius as i can set, etc etc.

 6/4/2020, 6:56:45 PM 	Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, (mean, deviation) before (-0.009, 0.045) after (0.000, 0.043)
6/4/2020, 6:55:32 PM 	Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, (mean, deviation) before (0.009, 0.039) after (-0.000, 0.034)
6/4/2020, 6:54:20 PM 	M98 P"0:/macros/AUTO CALIBRATIONS/3xG32"
Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, (mean, deviation) before (-0.002, 0.048) after (-0.000, 0.045)
6/4/2020, 6:45:48 PM 	Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, (mean, deviation) before (0.007, 0.034) after (-0.000, 0.031)
6/4/2020, 6:44:34 PM 	Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, (mean, deviation) before (-0.001, 0.042) after (0.000, 0.040)
6/4/2020, 6:43:20 PM 	M98 P"0:/macros/AUTO CALIBRATIONS/3xG32"
Calibrated 6 factors using 16 points, (mean, deviation) before (0.010, 0.034) after (-0.000, 0.031)

If the result before the pass present less deviation and then more , there are mechanical issues , right? This mean that the printer rebuild new parameter at any pass.
If the pass are all similar , same deviation more or less, it mean that the autocal is coherent and should not be present much mechanical assembly errors, right?
Which is the ideal results? Make the after = to 0.000 should mean zero mechanical errors? Or maybe just that printer compensate very well?
Could be interesting put in the guide how to read those data for give the right meaning to them.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer#main

Thanks for your time!

Hi all,
Hope some good soul can give me some advice . Finally I'm here on the RRF3 too. The 2.05.1 produce some strange errors. If I try to use the micro-steps suddenly the heater report fault. The height come wrong and the printer restart to print too hight or too low. Anyway lets go on..
I have installed the RRF 3.01.rc12 . Paneldue 7i updated at 1.24. Web control to 2.1.7. DuetWIFI rev 1.02
Delta printer as 3D printer.
I tried to dig in guides and https://www.reprap.org/wiki/G-code but I still miss to many stuffs.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/RepRapFirmware_3_overview#Section_Summary_of_what_you_need_to_do_to_convert_your_configuration_and_other_files

1)EDIT: Where I can found the real PIN names of the board?(schema or list). I thought they could be the names of the board diagram but they are not.Ex: for bed thermistor I expected "thermistor0" instead seems to be "bedtemp". So for sure I copy-pasted wrong names everywhere.
Ok I was blind/fuse, found the list...hemm...I'll try to read better.

2a)EDIT: The PanelDue 7i didn't show any temp despite the webcontrol does (also if wrong values) . No nozzle heater , no bed heater , no chamber heater , no extra heater added.
Reading is a good practice: https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/blob/v3-dev/WHATS_NEW_RRF3.md
Added to the M575 P1 S1 B57600 to config.g and the IAP.bin make the PaneDue work properly., Before was stuck on "connecting".

2b) EDIT: I added a 4rth thermistor (as shown in the config.g) . How I can map it for RRF3?
Reading the correct PIN name and M308 and M950 functions make me to insert the right value.

2c) EDIT:The thermistors , except for the bed that is right, reports wrong values also if old setting are used. 100degree instead near 25.
Basically the wrong setting leave report wrong values.
Now this code work good for the heaters all.

; HEATERS :
M308 S0 P"bed_temp" Y"thermistor" A"Bed" T100000 B3950 ; define bed temperature sensor 
M950 H0 C"bed_heat" T0 ; heater 0 uses the bed_heat pin, sensor 0
M308 S1 P"e0_temp" Y"thermistor" A"Nozzle" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700; define E0 temperature sensor for nozzle
M950 H1 C"e0_heat" T1 ; heater 1 uses the e0_heat pin and sensor 1
M308 S2 P"e1_temp" Y"thermistor" A"H_C_Resistor" T100000  B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700  ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e1_temp for hot chamber 
M950 H2 C"e1_heat" T2 ; heater 2 uses the e1_heat pin and sensor 2resistence
M308 S3 P"e2temp" Y"thermistor" A"Enclosure" T10000    ; configure sensor 3 as thermistor on pin exp.35 for enclosure
;M950 P3 P"exp.heater3" T3; sensor 3 uses the exp.35 pin and sensor 3
M140 H0 ; the bed heater is heater 0
M141 H2 ; heater 2 is the chamber heater

3)EDIT: Fans I would reach: FAN0 (connection on the schema) is for the nozzle in thermostatic mode. FAN1(connection on the schema) is for cooling the printed part and should be used by the slicer or manually controlled. FAN2 (connection on the schema) I would leave it manually for the hot chamber with a minimum of 30% on.
As for before with the proper PIN names all came to work.

4)EDIT: Endstop? If I try to home nothing move.
They work fine:

; Endstops
M574 X2 S1 P"xstop" ; Set active high endstops
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop"
M574 Z2 S1 P"zstop"

5)EDIT: Smart effector? I copy pasted , but of course I don't know if is right.
It seems to work.

6)EDIT: Filament sensor? Still as above how to map it?
No error report but still to be tested

; Filament Sensor - Add the following to config file anywhere before the M501 command
M591 D0 P1 C"e0_stop" R20 S1; configure extruder drive 0 to use E1 endstop (C4) with 20% tolerance , new extruder settings for filament sensor

7)EDIT: The TOOL section have the fan reverted (nozzle - cooling part) but now I don know if this is still necessary because the new mapping system. In the case how to do that again?
The exchange between the nozzle fan and tool fan is still valid.

THANKS TO ANYONE WILL CONTRIBUTE

My config.g:

Config.g

; General preferences
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

M575 P1 S1 B57600; enable panel due to connect properly

M665 L400.320:400.310:400.310 R164.588 H508.538 B165.0 X-0.087 Y-0.059 Z0.000; Set diagonal rod length, delta radius,  printable radius and homed -
M666 X0.00 Y0.0 Z0.0 A0.00 B0.00; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them ; old setting M666 X0.45 Y0.40 Z-0.25  A0.00 B0.00;

; Network
M550 PTEVO Little Monster ; Set machine name
M552 S1
G4 P1000
M587 S"Vodafone-casa24" P"xxxxxxxxx"
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet


; Motors 0.9 degree
M569 P0 S1 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; Drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; Drive 3 goes forwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X160 Y160 Z160 E920 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1700 Y1700 Z1700 E1700 I60 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent.I100 is idle 100% power motor. By def 1700 for axis and 1500 for Extruder for standard motors. For 0.9 motors use 1700 for 3 axis and 1700 for extruder (the motors are the same).
;M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; Set minimum Z

; Endstops
M574 X2 S1 P"xstop" ; Set active high endstops
M574 Y2 S1 P"ystop"
M574 Z2 S1 P"zstop"

; Z-Probe
M307 H3 A-1 C-1 D-1 ; Disable heater on PWM channel for BLTouch
M558 P8 C"^zprobe.in+zprobe.mod" H5 F1200 T6000 A5 R0.4 ; P9 for BLTouch, dive height 5mm=H5 (can be less if the error margin is less than 0.2 , ex H3), probe at 100mm/min, travel 6000mm/min, up to 5 probes, pause 0.1s  ; M558 P8 R0.4 F1200 for smart effector
G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.05 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height. The higher the Z value, the closer the bed will get to the nozzle. G31 X0 Y20 Z1.150 P25  for BLT. - G31 P100 X0 Y0 Z-0.1 for SMART.
M557 R165 S15 ; Define mesh grid




; HEATERS :

M308 S0 P"bed_temp" Y"thermistor" A"Bed" T100000 B3950 ; define bed temperature sensor 
M950 H0 C"bed_heat" T0 ; heater 0 uses the bed_heat pin, sensor 0
M308 S1 P"e0_temp" Y"thermistor" A"Nozzle" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700; define E0 temperature sensor for nozzle
M950 H1 C"e0_heat" T1 ; heater 1 uses the e0_heat pin and sensor 1
M308 S2 P"e1_temp" Y"thermistor" A"H_C_Resistor" T100000  B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700  ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e1_temp for hot chamber 
M950 H2 C"e1_heat" T2 ; heater 2 uses the e1_heat pin and sensor 2resistence
M308 S3 P"e2temp" Y"thermistor" A"Enclosure" T10000    ; configure sensor 3 as thermistor on pin exp.35 for enclosure
;M950 P3 P"exp.heater3" T3; sensor 3 uses the exp.35 pin and sensor 3
M140 H0 ; the bed heater is heater 0
M141 H2 ; heater 2 is the chamber heater
M141 H2 ; heater 2 is the chamber heater


; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F1 S"Nozzle"; Define tool 0 L'F1 inverte la ventola del tool e le ventole di raffreddamento. cosi' quando sposto il cursore del tool varia correttamente l'intensita' della ventola del nozzle. (prima invece cambiavano le ventole di raffreddamento)
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Fans
M950  F0 C"fan0" T0
M106 P0 S1  X1 H1 T45 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off - 0.3 is 30%
M950  F1 C"fan1" T1
M106 P1 S0 H-1 ; M106 P1 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950  F2 C"fan2" T2
M106 P2 S0  H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off - 0.3 is 30%

; Automatic power saving
M911 S10 R11 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; Set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss

; Custom settings
;M591 D0 C3 P2 E6.0 ;old extruder settings

; Filament Sensor - Add the following to config file anywhere before the M501 command
M591 D0 P1 C"e0_stop" R20 S1; configure extruder drive 0 to use E1 endstop (C4) with 20% tolerance , new extruder settings for filament sensor

; Miscellaneous
M501 ; Load saved parameters from non-volatile memory

; deployprobe.g
; called to deploy a physical Z probe

; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Sat Jul 07 2018 15:37:48 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)

M280 P3 S10 I1

M280 P3 S90 I1

@alankilian said in What would you build if you were starting again now?:

Speaking of deltas, (I have a SeeMeCNC Rostock Max V3.2 which uses a Duet2/Ethernet)

SeeMeCNC build a 300mm Delta for US$1,500 and a 500mm !!! Delta for US$4,500. Both use Duet.

You can see the warping even in the demonstration picture...

@jens55
Yep , I usually print the first 3 layer without the 10% ... (fan totally off).
@mrehorstdmd
Ok understood.
@zapta
Thanks for the link I'm looking it.
@Dad003
I could give it a try. But I the list I have to settle other stuff first.

Thanks to all for the contribution !

@mjlew
Thanks for you suggestion I'll make a new try with the black roll I still have.
In the past I used the ApolloX (ASA) from FomFutura. I have still a new roll to try. I remember that it had less warping but still present. (less than standard ABS for sure but still present). Now I'm using an ASA from the Azure Film and I didn't have idea if is good or not. (it was cheap I bought 4 roll at that time). I have still 4 rolls of this but white color. Could be the next attempt change the filament. I'll buy some new black rolls from FormFutura.

edit: ordered 3 roll of apolloX black

@jens55
My printer is 1m tall and the air come from the middle to the high direction in a diagonal of 45 degree. The square where come from the air is 4cm x 4cm. But the air is really hot (the resistor is now at 110 degree). Maybe the culprit is the 10% of the part fan that I leave always on that must be turned off?
I read everywhere that if is totally off the fan generate problems for the overhangs and in general the part come a little distorted.
But in my case I could have disable because the part didn't had overhang at all...
I have some more test to do ! Soon as I finished I open that 3d for make all the situation more clear.
I suspect that 10% of the turbofan on big parts is not good.

@jens55
thanks for your time
Mmmm...soon I'll open a 3d about my insulation and how I tried to uniform the temp of the circular glass ... It was fun but a little complicate found a working solution.
Now I'm on FreeCAD re-drawing a new fan setup for install a powerful fan in the air mechanism.(now is a 80mm x 25mm with low performance that will be replaced with a 120mm x25mm with mid performance fan that could be replaced again with a hight performance one if not enough). Actually I reach 50 degree using 1/3 of the power of the fan resistor. I hope to reach at least 60-70 degree at full regime.
I'll need also help for some coding in the automatic regulation of the chamber but I'll post there all the stuffs

@jens55
ok , I have some point where to work on.
I'll start to refine the insulation of the printer for rise the temperature and then try a different adhesion .
Such a tricky trap all this 3D printing world

@jens55
Thanks for the long answer .
About the cool down ,what is your practice? I mean , the procedure for remove the part.
A fix temperature or still 110 degree or maybe try at cold , with the glass passed some time in a fridge?
I'm open at several attempts , are years that I'm learning stuffs on 3D printing but I'm still really far from a good point.

Hi there !
This is fun and I have to figure it out.
I'm printing with a heated glass to 110 degree as suggested for the ABS/ASA material.
For stick the part I'm using the extra strong air spray and I have to say work really well , is water soluble so I can remove it after lots of application.
Now , what is happened is strange (to me at least).
Around the net I read several time to let part cool down by it self at the end of the print for avoid warping or deformation because the material contraction.
Fine I followed the suggestion.
Two different issue come here...
After a print of 17 hours I let the pieces cool down slowly as usual . When the glass reached the ambient temp I tried to remove the part and tadaaaaa , the glass come with the part also.

Plus , the 50 degree of the hot chamber wasn't enough to guarantee to avoid the warping. The fan speed was at 10% just for avoid mushy parts but I could try to deactivate it at all if necessary.

Differently from the other prints in this case I just applied a really thin layer of glue for leave the bed more flat possible, so I can image that I have to use more spray so that the glue will yield and not the glass.
It was awesome, the part of glass stuck to the plastic was part of it! I had to sand it away.
The block were 6cm eight for 5 cm large and deep. 6 wall and 30% infill (must be solid). The overall print was good but this problem of warping is still a nightmare.
In a guide for print the polycarbonate I read that If I don't use product specific that at low temperature detach them self I need to remove the part when the glass is hot , is this true?
https://www.3dprintingsolutions.com.au/News/Australia/how-to-3d-print-polycarbonate-pc-filament
I read on this forum that the ABS need at least 70 degree right? Is this temp enough for avoid warping?
And in my case the warping happened during the print , not after. The top surface is absolutely flat.
I can try to rise the internal temp improving the hot air flow and insulating better the structure and the bars.
Your experiences/suggestions?

@o_lampe
Hi lampe , I have one for the next coreXY full metal I'll be mounting. But for this system I'm a little concerned because the internal temps.
The glass transition for the ASA is rated (as I can read around) at 105 degree. All the times I removed a small part from the hot bed even at the temp of 100 degree the part was almost soft. The cause of my last bite of filament by the extruder I can suppose was because of this. Now , before this system I realized, I had the original metal part of the Tevo , that is an aluminium plate. That part , as the small cylinder of the extruder, came so damn hot during the print. I'm not competent in this area so empirically I just noticed that the metal is far more capable to accumulate heat despite the ASA that I was using for the rest of internal part I printed. Seems the plastic is more insulator and cooler material.
So for the ASA filament or in general those softer material I would stay with the plastic version of the extruder in this delta printer, for the coreXY and polycarbonate and PEEK I'll use the full metal version.
This is my idea , can be right?

@mrehorstdmd
Sorry I didn't specified the flying system good enough.
An other guy make this system for the Tevo Little Monster but it was too delicate so I modified his part adding a new one.
Despite seems for regulate the height between the belt and the block the purpose is an other.
What I noticed using a 35cm bed glass was that putting the right tension to the suspender belts , depending on the far perimeter zone , happens some little torsion / tension during the movements. The small screw is not tied hard so the part can rotate a little. The entire block like this stay always in line rotating a little depending where the mass during the movement goes.
Is not a super refined solution and I have no idea if this will make a difference in long term but it looked a small improvement respect a static solution.
Hope my poor english was able to explain the thing. I added a picture of the installation.