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    I could use some help

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    Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • A Former User?
      A Former User @A Former User
      last edited by

      @fcwilt I think I need to reverse the y and z axis on the above two entries.

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      • fcwiltundefined
        fcwilt @A Former User
        last edited by fcwilt

        @mac said in I could use some help:

        @fcwilt you know, I'm reading this code, and I'm thinking, that looks fine to me; there's nothing wrong with this code. And yet, the printer isn't doing any of this?

        Mac

        Well, the homing code for X does look correct but the video did not appear to show any motion along the X axis.

        The two Z moves were clear.

        Perhaps there was just the X5 move and I missed it.

        That would happen if the endstop sensor was indicating active all the time, so the G1 H1 moves would never happen, just the little 5mm move.

        Did you notice if that 5mm move happened?

        Is the X axis endstop switch using the NO connection or the NC connection?

        Frederick

        Printers: a E3D MS/TC setup and a RatRig Hybrid. Using Duet 3 hardware running 3.4.6

        A Former User? 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • A Former User?
          A Former User @fcwilt
          last edited by

          @fcwilt the print head was ac100mm right of the endstop at least.

          NO is normally open, NC is normally closed, I get that? Should I be looking at the white-green, 2-wire connectors plugged into I/O5 and I/06?

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          • A Former User?
            A Former User @fcwilt
            last edited by

            @fcwilt all of the endstops have a green wire and a white wire coming into them. All of the green wires are in the center. All of the white wires are under the red switch. All of the third poles on the switches are vacant. When something touches the switch, it makes the switch click. My assumption is that all of the switches are normally open. I’m also assuming that contacting an endstop closes it momentarily.

            A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • A Former User?
              A Former User @A Former User
              last edited by

              @fcwilt on the board, all of the white wires from the endstops are going to the #_in, and all of the green wires are going to gnd.

              alankilianundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • alankilianundefined
                alankilian @A Former User
                last edited by droftarts

                @mac There's no gurantee, but every microswitch I've ever used had common connection near the button-end of the switch and normally-open in the middle and normally-closed at the opposite end from the push button.

                This would mean that you have your switch wired as normally-open.

                https://forum.duet3d.com/assets/uploads/files/1655734994077-101ee1f1-2002-4042-b838-e9c4e68126bd.jpeg

                From the M574 description, since you have a normally-open switch, you shold add the "!" character to your M574 lines:

                For active low endstops, use type S1 and invert the input by prefixing the pin name with '!', for example M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop". Invert the input when using an NPN output inductive or capacitive sensor, or using a NO switch (not recommended, use a NC switch instead).

                like this:

                ; Endstops
                M574 X1 S1 P"!io5.in" ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on X via pin io5.in
                M574 Y1 S1 P"!io6.in" ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Y via pin io6.in
                M574 Z1 S1 P"!io2.in" ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for low end on Z via pin io2.in
                

                I do not know what Duet board you are using, so I don't know if you need to enable pullups yet. Let me know what board you have and I'll reply.

                I can also make a video showing how you can use the DWC Object Model plugin to see if your switches are configured the right-way by using a browser and pressing the switches.

                SeemeCNC Rostock Max V3 converted to V3.2 with a Duet2 Ethernet Firmware 3.2 and SE300

                A Former User? droftartsundefined 3 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • A Former User?
                  A Former User @alankilian
                  last edited by A Former User

                  @alankilian the switches came with the Xvico I’m putting a Duet3D Mini 5+ into.

                  So I agree, all of the endstops I’m using are normally open.

                  On the video, I would really like to see that.

                  Thanks for the input on the coding. RRF asked, is your endstop low or high? It didn’t ask, is it NO or NC,? So that’s a new bit of info worth having.

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                  • A Former User?
                    A Former User @alankilian
                    last edited by

                    @alankilian that’s great that you found that picture of one of my wires.

                    A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • A Former User?
                      A Former User @A Former User
                      last edited by

                      @alankilian I’m wondering what you’re thinking, re: editing the endstops? The problem I think I’m having is the print-head isn’t getting to the endstops. Are you suggesting that the endstops are invisible because they are portrayed incorrectly? Honestly, if that’s true, that’s brilliant!

                      fcwiltundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • fcwiltundefined
                        fcwilt @A Former User
                        last edited by fcwilt

                        @mac said in I could use some help:

                        @alankilian I’m wondering what you’re thinking, re: editing the endstops? The problem I think I’m having is the print-head isn’t getting to the endstops. Are you suggesting that the endstops are invisible because they are portrayed incorrectly? Honestly, if that’s true, that’s brilliant!

                        No, not invisible at all, just the opposite, in a way.

                        If you are right that your endstop switches are NO then when they are not touched the board is seeing them as active.

                        So your X homing G1 H1 moves never happen because G1 H1 moves stop as soon the endstop is active.

                        For NO switch connections you need the ! character which makes NO connection appear inactive when the endstop switch is not touched.

                        A better solution is to re-wire the endstop switches to use the COM And NC connections.

                        Didn't I post a picture, at one point, of an endstop switch showing the three connections COM, NO and NC?

                        Here it is in case my memory is faulty.

                        Microswitch Contacts.png

                        Frederick

                        Printers: a E3D MS/TC setup and a RatRig Hybrid. Using Duet 3 hardware running 3.4.6

                        A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • droftartsundefined
                          droftarts administrators @alankilian
                          last edited by

                          @alankilian

                          From the M574 description, since you have a normally-open switch, you shold add the "^" character to your M574 lines:

                          You wrote ^, but it should be !.

                          Ian

                          Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                          A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • A Former User?
                            A Former User @droftarts
                            last edited by

                            @droftarts this is the first time I’m seeing that picture, so, this is all new info to me. To be clear: my endstops should all be inverted? Yes, or no?

                            A Former User? droftartsundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • A Former User?
                              A Former User @A Former User
                              last edited by A Former User

                              @droftarts @alankilian I do remember our discussion about rewiring the endstops to use the vacant post. I’ll have to find that comment.

                              A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • droftartsundefined
                                droftarts administrators @A Former User
                                last edited by droftarts

                                @mac I thought we resolved this in another of your threads? If you're using NO and C on the microswitch, ie NOT the outside two pins, then yes, you need to invert the endstop. In the configurtion tool, on the "I/O Mapping" page, select "io[x].in (active low)" on the drop down list for the endstops wired like this:

                                49dbd061-bc11-4a30-9729-7846071666da-image.png 6ea1c710-286c-4a4b-8e7d-1a648b05d732-image.png

                                On the "Endstops" page, select Endstop type "Switch" and, because all your endstops are high end, "High end".

                                a853f169-a92d-4bbe-ba88-a940260406f8-image.png

                                This should give the output:

                                ; Endstops
                                M574 X2 S1 P"!io5.in"                        ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on X via pin !io5.in
                                M574 Y2 S1 P"!io6.in"                        ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on Y via pin !io6.in
                                M574 Z1 S2                                   ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z
                                
                                ; Z-Probe
                                M950 S0 C"io3.out"                           ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
                                M558 P9 C"io3.in" H5 F120 T6000              ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
                                G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5                          ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
                                

                                Your homing macros should also output from the configuration tool to suit this setup.

                                Ian

                                Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

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                                • A Former User?
                                  A Former User @A Former User
                                  last edited by

                                  @droftarts @alankilian Okay, COM is O on the switch pictured. So using the COM (O) and the NC posts, the white wire should go to the NC (Signal), and the green wire should go to the COM (O) (GND)? I’m trying to visualize the IO_5 (X), IO_6 (Y), and IO_2 (Z) connections on the board.

                                  droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • A Former User?
                                    A Former User @droftarts
                                    last edited by

                                    @droftarts you’ve been busy! To be clear, these setting are the software solution versus rewiring the switches.

                                    And, they include reinstalling the Z-probe (BLTouch). Is that what I’m seeing?

                                    A Former User? droftartsundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • A Former User?
                                      A Former User @A Former User
                                      last edited by

                                      @droftarts @alankilian Interesting the Driver 2 is “unassigned,” to accommodate the Z-pride in its own assignment area of the software.

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                                      • droftartsundefined
                                        droftarts administrators @A Former User
                                        last edited by

                                        @mac I updated my post so it looks more like your setup. I'd chosen the wrong pins.

                                        As I've said before, it doesn't matter which way around you wire a switch to the pins on the Duet. If you are using C and NO, wire one to the IO header GND, and one to io[x].in. Same if you are using C and NC. It's just the signal is different, so that needs changing in the configuration.

                                        Think of it this way;

                                        • NC means Normally Closed. In a circuit, the switch in 'ON'. A light bulb in the circuit would be on. If you flick the switch, the light bulb turns off.
                                        • NO means Normally Open. In a circuit, the switch is 'OFF'. A light bulb in the circuit would be off. If you flick the switch, the light bulb turns on.

                                        The Duet doesn't mind which way it's wired, it just need to know the way you want the logic to work.

                                        The answer, really, is to test your endstops before relying on the homing macro to be correct. For each endstop, send M119 in DWC. This will report the state of the endstop. Then press and hold the endstop, and send M119 again. The state of the endstop should change. When it's not pressed, it should say "not stopped". When it is pressed, it should say "at max stop" (or "at min stop" if that's the way it's been configured.

                                        Ian

                                        Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

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                                        • droftartsundefined
                                          droftarts administrators @A Former User
                                          last edited by droftarts

                                          @mac

                                          To be clear, these setting are the software solution versus rewiring the switches.

                                          Yes

                                          And, they include reinstalling the Z-probe (BLTouch). Is that what I’m seeing?

                                          You've got one, it was working, may as well use it!

                                          Interesting the Driver 2 is “unassigned,” to accommodate the Z-prideprobe in its own assignment area of the software.

                                          Yes. But... you can have a Z endstop as well, if you want. Generally, best to use the Z probe for Z homing, but there are cases when it's good to have another option. If your printer stops mid-print (eg power failure), the Duet can save the position in the current file (it detects the power drop and quickly saves this info before power completely disappears). When power is back on, and assuming you want resume the print, how do you home the printer? X and Y is usually fine to home, but homing Z with the probe will probably cause it to hit the print. In this case, if you set up a max Z endstop, the printer can home Z to the top of the frame (as your printer moves the X axis up on Z), and then continue with the print.

                                          Ian

                                          Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

                                          A Former User? fcwiltundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • A Former User?
                                            A Former User @droftarts
                                            last edited by

                                            @droftarts "In this case, if you set up a max Z endstop, the printer can home Z to the top of the frame (as your printer moves the X axis up on Z), and then continue with the print."

                                            Is a "max Z endstop" a virtual endstop (versus the real z-stop)? Is it a record of the elevation when the printer lost power, that is used to return to the print with?

                                            Mac

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