Another Stratasys uPrint retrofit
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@aj-quick The X, Y, and Z motors have wires extended using the female Molex connector you referenced in your webpage for the I/O board on one end and the Duet connectors on the other. I crimped some wires and fed them through the electronics box to the Duet. This is like what @drphil3d did to control the movement motors.
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@aj-quick So I completely bypassed the PDB for the xyz motors as the TMC drivers on the Duet 2 are strong enough to drive them directly and quietly too.
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@aj-quick The extruder motor I connected using the J13 pins (31, 33, 35, and 37) the pwm outputs and the encoder signals on the Geckodrive. I just followed the recommended settings for the Geckodrive and it works ok. I used the stp 10 and dir 10 outputs from the CONN_LCD connection to control the external motor driver (Geckodrive). Everything is powered either from the 24V or 5V output of the existing power supplies to run the Duet 2, DueX5 and Geckodrive. The 5V is to ensure enough current for the pwm signaling for the heater control and PDB Power Enable and Motor Enable which uses up all 5 PWM outputs of the DueX5. I read in the thermocouple temps to the thermistor inputs using a voltage divider to bring the signal down to roughly 3.3V scale which enabled the temperatures to reach the correct temperature ranges. This was for the Duet as it seemed to work based on 3.3v though it can in theory handle 5 V. I did have to adjust the linear ranges as you mentioned in one of your posts. I used the touch points to calibrate at two points (finger temp and 100C) then once that was close I went to 200 and then 300 to make sure I didn't burn anything up. Once I got the ranges correct I ran the auto calibration and it now handles the temp changes quickly and accurately. With the DueX5 the 5V endstop voltages can be sent directly to the endstop pins on the Duet without having to do any level shifting to 3.3V.
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@aj-quick Hackaday says you need to accept the terms of the contest. Did you get an invite to the project?
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@archeantus Ahh that all makes sense. My first test was to do something similar. I had a Geckodrive G320 installed, several AC relays and made direct connections to the motors. I only abandoned that idea after I found one of the 120VDC power supplies was located directly on the PDB.
Using both seems to be the easiest solution.
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@aj-quick Yeah, it was pretty straight forward after all you guys have done! It works amazing!
I just couldn't gut the extruder with the whole tilt mechanism and CNC parts.
The extruders are insane! I can't out run the extruder. I end up with vibrations in the print before I can max out the amount of hot filament! It is just crazy! I'll see if I can get a video later showing this. I think I end up maxing out the travel speed of the Duet.
I ended up adding an accelerometer to help me know how to minimize ringing in the printer using input shaping. It seems to have helped a lot! Maybe it will help with the vibrations are high print speeds.
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@aj-quick Welcome to the project on Hackaday!
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@archeantus Fantastic job! I've been following your updates this week, and looking forward to hopefully trying this out on a (working) 1200es BST I have. Love the reversible approach.
I'm curious, did you take any steps to evaluate the uPrint's motion settings prior to swapping in the Duet boards? Acceleration, jerk, etc. Thats something I've wondered myself - the printer I've built very much is inspired by how well the 1200es can print, and I've tried to exceed the quality for a given print duration.
I'm unsure what motors are in the uPrint, but I have datasheets for those in the 1200es (Applied Motion steppers). It seems they would like to be run closer to the Duet's max of 2.4A, rather than .95A - any insight on why you selected .95A for the X and Y axes? I can share the datasheets on Monday.
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@sebkritikel I know there are some technician only software tools out there that allow you to actually adjust the settings on the 1200/uPrint. I believe over command line you are also able to see some of those speed and acceleration parameters. That being said, I think the uPrint for example is very de-rated as far as what it is actually capable of. I would expect having to adjust the speeds and accelerations after conversion.
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@aj-quick said in Another Stratasys uPrint retrofit:
@sebkritikel I know there are some technician only software tools out there that allow you to actually adjust the settings on the 1200/uPrint. I believe over command line you are also able to see some of those speed and acceleration parameters. That being said, I think the uPrint for example is very de-rated as far as what it is actually capable of. I would expect having to adjust the speeds and accelerations after conversion.
Agreed that these machines run at derated speeds - hadn't thought about connecting with the diagnostic tools... I wonder if MacaraEx will do the trick, think I have a download of that somewhere.
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@sebkritikel if you want to get super involved you can plug a keyboard and monitor in directly to the onboard PC inside the machine. If you run a few commands (I'm guessing sudo systemctl sshd enable) you can actually enable the SSH access into the machine and have full access to the files and commands. If I recall the hard drive contained the executable code for every model they had (Dimension, uPrint, Fortus).
You can also plug in over serial and send commands that would mimic the ones sent between the material bays and the controller. (Probably different for a Dimension or 1200 unit.)
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@sebkritikel I know @drphil3d had some that he had pulled out from the Uprint and uploaded to his GitHub. You may check there. I ended up running at 0.95 since the story motors on the Uprint for X and Y are rated at 1.4A. I haven't had any issues with motor skips. In things I have read it is best to run them closer to 60 percent of the rated voltage. Yet even in my video you can see running them at 300mm/s (acceleration limited) that I still didn't skip any steps. I'm sure I could mess with the acceleration, yet I only just put in the accelerometer this week and haven't really had a chance to test much after that. I did mess with acceleration settings earlier yet had some vibration issues and ended up going with what I have. The settings I have uploaded I think are a bit closer to what @drphil3d had used. I haven't been able to see what the z motor current rating is so I haven't really pushed it to much. It is buried in the back of the instrument and I didn't feel like taking it apart that much to find out. If anyone knows I would love to adjust settings as the z motor had to hold a fair bit of weight. I would like to be able to push it up further yet it seems to be working ok for now.
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@archeantus For posterity, here are the datasheets for the 1200es BST - the recomended replacement (aside from all the fancy shaft modifications) was the HT23-597.
MN23-700-001
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n2taAMFu3agLpNULymEK3nVKLw8_VqeN/view?usp=sharingMN23-700-002
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LjYgWmTOQZbuap6dJBgMRQ50yjt7VcrY/view?usp=sharingMN23-700-003
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Sxlal_UX6_PN25cqXctgkB7OG1f29wFz/view?usp=sharing -
@AJ-Quick The project made it into the top 10 of the Hack It Back challenge! I'll be working on putting together and uploading full build instructions and a better video outlining the project for the final judging of the competition for the top 5 of all of the categories (5/50, 10 for each category). Hopefully the full instructions will help anyone else going to do the same or use this as a starting point for controlling similar systems!
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on a 768 ssys the steppers are 8 wire and the coils need to be paired into 4 wires and pinned to the duets 4 pins to match that's it the 1200's are the same i believe
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As for thew material bays you will want to run them off a momentary button one for latching the canister and one for feeding the filament from it
as it runs/feeds from a rubber wheel its not accurate in measuring it's length and the motor that drives it is only 2 wire 24vdc so no feed backi latch the canister(button 1) then use the feed (button2) and extrude the drive motor in the head to catch the feeded filament at the head and unlatch the feed button when it purges out
the filament feed is load sprung it will not strip out the filament but also will not measure out accurately so it is best run it manually only it works great for me
the rubber wheels on the canister drives will slip if they need to not damage the filament rendering the auto load unreliable to measure the feed for an auto load
but it may work if you just over feed it as the filament will not damage if it can't be pushed any further the spring will save the filament from stripping out in any case so running the canister feed over time to assure its to the head is an option if you really want auto loadsi am in the middle of a conversion 768 sst to 6hc
my sugestions are to keep everything you can off the ssys or duet
example
Chamber fans 4x1.1A(on an 768) they run at 100% so no need to tie them into the duet ssys starts the heated chamber as soon as you turn it on fans too for the chamberdo you still need maraca ex? i have it somewhere but not sure you need it unless your on ssys platform still
also try m4 tubing to std thread fitting for using a capricorn xs tubing to the head it is better for the extruder to catch it as the ssys one is much bigger in ID and OD causing incomplete loads as the filament catches the edges of the next filament path as the inside is too big for the alignment to be accurate without a tapered guider first
if you are using the oem liquifier this mabe ok then as the oem liquifier has a feed guider before the liquifier but any non ssys down stream will benefit from the 4mm od tubing over the 8mm OD oem white tubingcould you share your chamber config.g i am having troubles with keeping the chamber to the set point using the oem J couple for the chamber even after auto tune it still calls on the ssr over the set point and never settles to the SP both on BB and pid
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what i found to work best for ssys conversions
off line/manual run equipment-Cpap head cooling fan (left rear)always on 100%
-Heated chamber fans (x4)always on 100%
-latch and load canister/filament (buttons)
-always on fans heat break ect...
-chamber lights are run off the oem side switch only
-the entire power feed is tru the oem breaker and line filter (left rear)
all off a fuse block from 24vdc power supply 21A oemon duet
XYZE nema 23
OEM j thermo for the chamber
pt1000 hot end heats
oem end stops and oem abl
next is accelerometer after i get the chamber stable
so far play-doo prints are near perfect asa is good too but need the chamber to be stable
i may add a heated bed should i get past PC resins and others but you will only need it for materials needing over 90c builds plate as the oem chamber is 80c only and so are the components inside rated to
i have used silicone 200c wire and redone the umbilical cable incase i want to add bellows to isolate the upper gantry and upgrade the insulation to fire pillows like the SSYS titans and then 120-130c is possible in this chamber but thats for another day soon.cheers,
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768 sst liquifier available should anyone need it Model and support
msquared does them too but$$$$$
if you want to print many diffrent filament dont use thiswhy
1 they can't be cleaned (carbon from different materials inside induces carbon buildup more)
2. they are standard not metric
3. they wear out and are not a consumable
4.the oem extruders may not work with duet that i know and the extruder gears are likely to have excessive lash between the gears any how unless you know a julery guy that can replace them ...or a machinist willing to but is not advised without previous experiences doing so they are small and would need super precise way to produce the gears
5. the bend (90 deg) at the top of the liquifier tube is a flaw in my opinion as it is in the melt zone not before and naturally back purges a small blob around the liquifiers entrance causing even more resistance (not one of ssys better liquifiers for sure 768)the best SSYS liquifiers are in my opinion in the titans, fortus MC and few others
straight no 90 deg bends 100watt 90-120dvc aside powered oem
the old 200watt ones on the sst and bst are way over kill for that tiny aluminum block with stainless like thin tubes but then again maybe not 120vdc i cannot remember..
(disregard if the 1200 are diff.. oh they are different chit my bad i remember now you have spring actuator from model to support side where the bst and sst have the same set height)my question is does it feed from the top or the back hose like mine (never got to work on a 1200 only mc up)
loving all the SSYS conversions I am not alone thanks for sharing everyone
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@rexx I don’t usually like reviving old threads but do you have and/or know a way to get the maracaex software still? need for a dimension sst768
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