Help me ID this heatbreak?
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@3dpmicro said in Help me ID this heatbreak?:
E3d V6 is the same thread size on both sides. M6x1 or 1.25. I don't recall
Yours appears to have 2 different thread diametersHave you ever seen a e3d v6?
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@3dpmicro, I think that E3D V6 are M6 on the lower end and M7 on the upper end. There should be open source dimensions somewhere.
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The original poster has indicated their part is (over 4mm) too short for an E3D V6 heat break.
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...also not V5.
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can you post a picture of the entire hotend assembly?
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More photos added to the first link showing the other hot end parts. Thanks all
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that seems like a custom part.
how is the radiator part attached to the carriage? you might be able to replace it with a standard v6.
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That was my fear. Not sure if I'm honest. I'd have to try taking it apart. The problem is I can't access the FW so any change to the nozzle position/height will be a problem.
I should add I've bought a replacement nozzle and it was a V6 clone which worked/fitted perfectly.
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The block looks like its bigger than "normal"; maybe look into fitting a regular v6 heat break + v6 block and see if the over all length is close enough?
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I’ll measure up tonight. See if that could be an option.
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@blacksheep99 said in Help me ID this heatbreak?:
art. The problem is I can't access the FW so any change to the nozzle position/height will be a problem.
What kind of Z homing do you have? You may be able to adjust the Z height my moving the endstop or shim the moving part that activates it. Upgrading to common parts will make your life easier.
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@zapta said in Help me ID this heatbreak?:
@blacksheep99 said in Help me ID this heatbreak?:
art. The problem is I can't access the FW so any change to the nozzle position/height will be a problem.
What kind of Z homing do you have? You may be able to adjust the Z height my moving the endstop or shim the moving part that activates it. Upgrading to common parts will make your life easier.
It’s a microswitch that probes the build plate in 5 locations. I considered the option you’ve proposed. Would need to look closer to see if that is possible. I’ve found a new hot end for £45 which is an expensive fix.
I have two printers and the other is in bits as I’m going to upgrade the control board to duet so ideally want this working until that is done then will consider the same with this printer.
Thanks for the suggestion
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Just wondering if I’ve read your suggestion correctly now. It’s a Core-XY printer so the build plate lowers. Assume it’s a microswitch though
