I could use some help
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@mac
Morning mac!
Hope you are feeling better.
So what motors did you end up ordering?
Frederick
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@fcwilt I ordered the ones you suggested, and hopefully, they'll be here on July 6th.
Other than that, I've been taking things apart, removing sheathing from this and that, collecting wires that belong together, and wrapping them in spiral tubing. So off with the sheathing, and on with the spiral tubing!
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt I ordered the ones you suggested, and hopefully, they'll be here on July 6th.
Other than that, I've been taking things apart, removing sheathing from this and that, collecting wires that belong together, and wrapping them in spiral tubing. So off with the sheathing, and on with the spiral tubing!
Do you have the tools and skills to change the white wires on the endstop switches from the NO terminal to the NC terminal?
If you could that would be a good thing to do, as it reduces the possibility of noise being picked up by the endstop wiring.
Not essential but suggested.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@fcwilt @droftarts @Nightowl @rexx @deckingman @alankilian We're going to take a few days off (to blow things up), and then we'll be back towards the 6th of July to start all over again.
We're tossing the questionable motors from the Xvico / Ender 3 clone (of a clone of a clone), and putting in some proper kit that will play nicely with the Duet3D Mini 5+ (hopefully). Me and the team, I should call them the A-Team, we're going to yak at each other a bit more. Who knows, can a thread on this forum reach a thousand comments?
Mark
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@fcwilt your suggestions are essential, my friend. So tell me which wire goes where and I'll get right to it (on the switch, and on the connector?).
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt your suggestions are essential, my friend. So tell me which wire goes where and I'll get right to it (on the switch, and on the connector?).
Only on the micro-switches themselves.
Based on past discussions the white wires are connected to the switch terminals labeled NO.
IF, I repeat, IF that is the situation you would need to unsolder the wire from the NO terminal and solder it to the NC terminal.
Do that for each switch.
Once that is done the M574 statements for the endstops would need to have the ! character removed, which changes them from NO "mode" to NC "mode".
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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spool 3d have LDO HT nema 17 they are your best bet or steppermotoronline
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@rexx thanks Rex! Appreciate it.
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@fcwilt okay, sounds more than easy. I’m expecting this printer to fly after I make this change!
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@fcwilt the switch for the Z endstop has the white wire on O. The green wire is on NO, and the NC post is vacant.
The switch for the X endstop has the white wire in the O. The green wire is on the NO, and the NC post is vacant
The switch for the Y endstop has the white wire on the O. The green wire is on the NO, and the NC post is vacant.
I guess we miscommunicated somehow.
Mark
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@mac In case Frederick has got his head down somewhere, I'll jump in. The "O" will be common so leave that where it is. All need do is move the green wire from the NO to the NC.
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@deckingman so there is work to do, but there was a mix-up about what it is; that’s cool. And doing this NO to NC move will remove some noise from the system, correct?
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@fcwilt Got it done (with a bump), and the !'s are gone!
; Endstops M574 X1 S1 P"io5.in" ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on X via pin io5.in M574 Y1 S1 P"io6.in" ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on Y via pin io6.in M574 Z1 S1 P"io2.in" ; configure switch-type (e.g. microswitch) endstop for high end on Z via pin io2.in -
@deckingman Thanks also to Mr. Deckingman for diving in and getting the boat back on course!
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@deckingman ................. And doing this NO to NC move will remove some noise from the system, correct?
Not exactly. Here is the thing..........The end stop status is always ignored except when you do a homing move (use the H1 parameter). If you use normally open switches, when you do a homing move, the firmware is looking for a change at the switch from (normally) open to closed. Now if there is a bad connection or a wire falls off completely, the firmware will never see that the switch has closed so it'll continue to try and move the gantry which could potentially do some damage.
So, it is generally best practice to use normally closed switches. That way, if there is bad connection or a wire falls off, the firmware will "think" that the switch is open so it'll stop the carriage.
But there is a catch. Because if you use normally open switches and have a wire fall off, as soon as you start a homing move, the carriage will stop (because the firmware "thinks" that the switch has immediately gone open). But it'll also set that as the homing position - even if it';s half way along an axis. If you didn't spot what happened, and started a print, strange things are going to happen because the origin isn't 0,0 but somewhere else. Now there is a way to catch that but it involves conditional gcode and I really don't think it would be a good idea to go down that road at this stage of the game - you have enough on your plate just getting the thing doing basic stuff.
So for now, wire the switches normally closed (NC) because it'll be safer. Once you get everything sorted and moving as it should, remind me and I'll explain what you can do to catch the unlikely event of a wire falling off.
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@deckingman excellent clarification, thank you!
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@deckingman excellent clarification, thank you!
No worries. I've got my hands fairly full of other stuff so if you don't here from me, it's not because I'm ignoring you - it's just that I'm busy trying to sort out a major upgrade to my own (6 extruder, 7 axis, 4 Duet board) machine. I'll pop in from time to time when I can, but Frederick and the other Ian will get you sorted.
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@mac said in I could use some help:
@fcwilt the switch for the Z endstop has the white wire on O. The green wire is on NO, and the NC post is vacant.
The switch for the X endstop has the white wire in the O. The green wire is on the NO, and the NC post is vacant
The switch for the Y endstop has the white wire on the O. The green wire is on the NO, and the NC post is vacant.
I guess we miscommunicated somehow.
Mark
Hi Mark (here I thought it was Mac)
Just a little confusion with wire color. But deckingman was spot on and gave you good advice.
Just FYI, I bet if you look real close at the switch terminals you describe as having an O, it will turn out to be a C for COMMON. On some of my switches the C is almost closed and can look like an O.
Just a little fun fact, nothing important.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
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@deckingman said in I could use some help:
it's just that I'm busy trying to sort out a major upgrade to my own (6 extruder, 7 axis, 4 Duet board) machine.
Now that I am looking forward to hearing about.
Frederick
Printers: A FT-5 with the 713 upgrade bits, a custom MarkForged style, a small Utilmaker style, a small CoreXY from kit and a E3D MS/TC setup. Various hotends. Using Duets (2 and 3) running 3.4.6
