Duet not connect in anyways - Clue: nozzle fan always on
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@dc42 yes I tried but nothing happened. What do you think?
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@genioluiz7 I've read back through the forum thread, and it does seem that the WiFi module has failed. Because the firmware on the Duet was also erased, I'd suspect either a wiring short or ESD "static electricity" shock has caused it to fail. The way that the Duet circuit is designed is that short circuits to the 3.3V rail are first absorbed by the SD card holder and WiFi module, hopefully before the main processor, so that they fail first. They are easier to replace than the main processor.
Most likely you will need to replace the WiFi module. If you can't do this yourself, there may be others local to you that can help, see https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/13875/community-repairs. Unfortunately Duet3D does not carry out these repairs itself. Otherwise, I think you will need to replace the Duet board.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts, I've replaced the WiFi module. Now what have I to do?
I post a picture of the LEDs that are on now.
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@genioluiz7 flash it using M997 S1
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@jay_s_uk as you can see the 'diag' light is on, between the SD card and USB.
So I follow the next instruction you send me previous in this conversation:
On Duet 2, in normal operation:- the DIAG LED will turn on as power is applied, then turn off as soon as the firmware starts loading, usually less than 0.5 second.
- In normal operation, it will turn back on if the probe type is set to M558 P1 in config.g. Removing the SD card and resetting should switch it off. Apart from this case, the DIAG LED should normally be off.
- Errors in config.g may cause the Duet to get stuck in a boot loop, which will cause the DIAG LED to be on permanently. Remove SD card and reset.
- If the reset button is stuck in (rare), or has been mounted so it is pushed in by an enclosure, the Duet will get stuck in a boot loop, which will cause the DIAG LED to be on permanently. Check there is clearance around the reset button, or use some tweezers to gently pull the button out.
- If the firmware has been erased the DIAG LED will be on permanently.
Diag LED still on
I tried also to flash it with BOSSA, with the erase pin but the LED doesn't turn off.
Now when I connect via USB the YAT software doesn't detect the COM10
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Do you still have the heat sinks mounted? Perhaps they are making contact and shorting something.
Have you removed the board from the case and disconnected everything except for the USB connection?
Give the board a blast of compressed air to dislodge any debris that may be causing a short.
Does anything get hot to the touch shortly after being connected to usb power?
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- Do you still have the heat sinks mounted? Perhaps they are making contact and shorting something.
No, they are correctly mounted.
Have you removed the board from the case and disconnected everything except for the USB connection?- Give the board a blast of compressed air to dislodge any debris that may be causing a short.
Ok
- Does anything get hot to the touch shortly after being connected to usb power?
No, nothing
As you can see below, I unplugged everything, and everything is clean and all the LEDs are on.
Now the COM10 is detected. So I tried the Fallback procedure #2 with BOSSA, but after clicked Write I clicked Verify and this warning message appeared.
What could I do now?
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@genioluiz7 did the heatsinks come with the board?
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@jay_s_uk yes
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@genioluiz7 then its a clone board and not covered by a duet warranty etc. Clone boards come with those blue heatsinks, duet boards do not.
If its none functioning then theres not much you can do -
@jay_s_uk Since I bought it from someone else, could it be that they were added later? I believe that is original.
I said yes becouse when I received the board they were already mounted. Ma non so di più.
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@genioluiz7 i mean you could add them later.
The ultimate way to tell would be remove the heatsinks on the main MCU and see if theres any evidence of a sticker.
Having the heatsinks on the drivers and MCU do nothing anyway as the board takes the heat away -
@genioluiz7 ignore the DIAG LED. On Duet 2 it is shared with the Z probe command pin, so it doesn't mean anything, except that for certain startup errors it will flash an error code.
When you flashed the board using Bossa, did you remove the Erase jumper before pressing the Write button? If you don't remove it then the write will fail, leading to lots of verify errors.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
@dc42 Thanks for the suggestion on the LED Diag.
Yes, I followed the instructions about that. I can show what I did in particular:
Turned off Duet
Put Jumpering the erase jumper.
Turned on Duet for few sec.
Than turned off.
Removed the erase jumper.
Turned on Duet again.
Then pressed the Reset button.
Opened Bossa and selected COM10 and checked boxes Erase all, Lock, and Boot to flash, then press Write. The write process worked
After I clicked Verify and at the end I got the warning message (Verify failed Page errors: 1021 Byte errors: 63923) and I stoped -
@genioluiz7 if the Erase jumper was definitely not in place when you ran Bossa, then sadly I think the flash memory of the main processor on the Duet as been damaged. The only other possibility I can think of is that the 3.3V rail is low, perhaps because something powered by it is drawing excessive current. If you have a multimeter, you could measure the voltage between the 3.3V and ground pins of one of the endstop connectors.
