Hi all,

since I'd like to share my new printer design. It is my second printer design, I'm using a DuetWifi to drive the printer.

The printer is being designed for my dad who has ALS. So my mom needs to be able to operate the physical aspects. This means as little as possible calibration and such. The first printer I've designed for him works well however there are a number of things I would to improve upon with this design:

• Repeatability (This is ok on the old printer but could be mich better)
• Size (My dad would like to print larger things)
• Auto bed calibration (Even with bed leveling my mom is sometimes a bit to rough with the bed and it gets out of alignment)
• The print operation needs to be at a comfortable viewing heigt from wheel chair

So why not buy a ready build printer you say: Well cost and hobby! My dad also loves engineering so it's great working om it together.

Details:

• Total dimensions: +/- 700x700x1100(height)
• Max print dimensions: 500x500x600(height), Initial design might be 400x400x600 due to me not being able to find a glass plate of 500x500 (without having it custom made and being very expensive)
• Frame is made of 3030 and 3060 profiles which provides nice rigidity
• CoreXY (This works well now ), Currently using derlin wheels however I have ordered 3 linear rails which should be much better. (Driven by 2 NEME23s)
• 3 independently driven motors for the Z platform (Driven by 3 NEMA17s (0.9 degree), Each motor will drive a SFU1605 ballscrew of 700mm (about 650mm usable length).
• Bed sensing: Either BLTouch (initail idea) or touch sensor using piezo
• 1600W 230V bed heater switched by a SSRS
• (Optional/future) Exchangeable tool carriages
  --> Tool carraige 1: A single E3D volcano
  --> Tool carraige 2: A quad E3D kraken with volcanos
• Easily accessible bottom compartment with spool holder and filament guides so changing colour will be less of a hassle
• Integrated UPS which can run the printer for at least 1 hour

A number of images (work in progress do not mind the mess and yes the missus is very patient!

The XY axes work however in one of the redesigns of the Y carriages I kinda forgot about the clearance for the returning belts... So near the motors there are temporary guides. Also the XY will be replaced by linear guides once they arrive.

I'll post movies later since the site does not let me upload them.

@Phaedrux I'm sorry I tried using the configurator and it does not work correctly!

When choosing RRF3+ I get the following config for the endstops: M574 X1 S0 P"!zstop" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on X via pin !zstop

This does not work because S0 is no longer supported for RRF3+. It should' vv e been: M574 X1 S1 P"!zstop" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on X via pin !zstop

Also it sets: M667 S1 ; select CoreXY mode
Which according to documentation should be (for RRF3): M667 K1 ; select CoreXY mode

I understand you'd like people to use the tool provided. However atm it provides more issues then it solves atm.

I got the motors working correct now.

I still do have one confusing thing in the config and that has to do with assigning the drivers.
My physical connections: X is on 0 (Normally used for Z), Y is on 1, Z is on 2 (Normally used for X) [I did this because I will be using 3 and 4 for Z as well and it makes more sense having the Zs in order]

The working config is: M584 X2 Y1 Z0 E3:4; set drive mapping (With this config I would assume X is on the third driver however it isn't! It is on the first...)

According to the documentation: M584: Set drive mapping
Parameters

Xnnn Driver number(s) for X motor(s)
Ynnn Driver number(s) for Y motor(s)
Znnn Driver number(s) for Z motor(s)

So why doesn't it work when I say: M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3:4; If I do this it treats the Z motor on driver 2 as the X, can anyone confirm if this is a bug?

@Phaedrux The Configuration tool generates old type config when selectin RRF3+. Specific issues I had:

• (generic issue) you select inversion when selecting the endstop for the axis and you select if it is NC or NO in the next menu. This is redundant and confusing.
• M574 Command sets S0 when selecting a NO endswitch type. This is incompatible/depricated on RRF3
• M667(669) Command when on RRF3 it should set M669 K1 instead of M667 S1

@Veti does that mean you can only connect one tacho?

@Veti which input on the duex can I use for that. The forum names a input on the duet through the extension cable only.

Alright, so another update couldn't leave it alone. I can confirm the Noctua runs like a charm. The above image green connections are incorrect! They need to be on FAN-

Now the only open point is the tacho, I don't really think I need it actually. What would be the benefit of connecting it?

Alright so against my better judgement I decided to test somethings out.

From what I tested the jumper makes the fan output 12V, jay! I have revised my plan of approach:

1x orange is now nothing!
1x red Jumper
1x purple 12V+ for FANs + a wire to short the two pins
3x green PWM signal
1x ground directly to ground of fans
3x tacho still not sure which inputs I can use on duex2

@dc42 Thnx for the answer. They're indeed noctuas. I say go ugly brown or go home

So just to be sure and not blow anything up:

• I have a duex2 0.8
  
• 2x Red jumper
• 1x Orange for 12V +/- all fans, PWM disabled (couldn't find a 12V out)
• 3x green the PWM lead for the fan
• 3x ? where would the tacho lead go? GPIO 1-3

Please let me know if that would be ok.

Also why does the documentation note only to enable 12V if you use it. Is there a risk in enabling it?

I'd say that's a fair bit of design oversight since 2 pin fans aren't meant to run under PWM and you usually end up with a lot of FAN wine.

Still since there is no limitation described in the M950 RRF3 command does that mean that it will work with that (Changing the frequency I mean)?

I'll probably just move my part cooler fan to the duex so I have three PWM fans and to the 12V thing there.

Might want to add the DUEXes PWM limitations in the specification though. Since "6 additional controlled fan outputs, also usable for driving LEDs etc. The output voltage may be switched between 5V, 12V and VIN." implies that they funtion the same as the controlled fans on the main board.

@Veti According to image they are PWM outputs. The M106 says no variable PWM which would mean changing the frequency (so you're stuck using default, which is not great ofc).

On that note the M950 does not specify any limitation. I am using RRF3 does that mean I can set the PWM frequency indendently.

@Veti Thank you for taking the time to respond.

According to the documentation the Duex has a internal 12V line though. At least if I interpret it correctly.

Also the expert:
In order to use the 12V internal supply for LEDs/FANs the 12V EN jumper must be fitted. Do not fit this jumper if you are not using the 12V internal supply

In the above referenced wiki page. Seems to suggest there is a internal 12V power supply.

The FAN's use 1W each so 3W in total which is not a whole lot.

Hi guys,

I have a DuetWifi 2 and a Duex2 with a 24V power supply. I would like to connect 12V 4 wire PWM fans to it.

However I'm getting confused on how to wire it correctly. I have a 12V power supply lying around if needed.

I was looking through all the information and noticed:

In: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duex_wiring_diagrams

Does that mean I just set the Jumper and the duex has a buck converter built in? (contrary to what is mentioned in: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans#Section_Using_12V_fans_when_VIN_is_24V)

@Phaedrux Hi, I've resolved it. It turns out one of the wires on the connector wasn't making a connection

Sorry for wasting your time and thnx for your help and patience!

Edit: So I tried going back to PWM5 since that's the one I would like to use and that is indeed not working. (well only on startup for some reason). Not a big issue thouh. However I would've liked to have the bed level sensor plugged into the most left PWM.