And with these 5 photos I close the discussion.
Thank you all
And with these 5 photos I close the discussion.
Thank you all
It's not perfect but it's still acceptable.
With a 5x5 or denser map, the result would undoubtedly be better, but having built the 3x3 map entirely by hand, with a series of print runs in succession, I can be satisfied. Also because, I repeat, it is a prototype!
Test grid: 595x595x0.2 with 1% filling (printed in 32 minutes @25-30mm/s)
Everything starts moving ... and if it weren't for the power supply fan, you wouldn't hear anything (or almost)!
very beautifull!
Goodmorning everyone
I had entered the codes M566, M203 and M201 in the config.g file to find the speed "limits" of the X and Y axes.
Now the 3 instructions in the file have been commented out.
From the Console I get this:
Custom M566
;M566 X4000.00 Y4000.00 Z300.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
Original M566
Maximum jerk rates (mm/min): X: 900.0, Y: 900.0, Z: 12.0, E: 120.0, jerk policy: 0
Custom M203
;M203 X20000.00 Y20000.00 Z1000.00 E5000.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M203
Max speeds (mm/min): X: 6000.0, Y: 6000.0, Z: 300.0, E: 1200.0, min. speed 30.00
Custom M201
;M201 X5000.00 Y5000.00 Z100.00 E4000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M201
Accelerations (mm/sec^2): X: 500.0, Y: 500.0, Z: 20.0, E: 250.0
I'll do some printing tests with the default values and let you know.
@fcwilt At the moment I cannot change anything, so I would like to use compensation. The problem is that the compensation doesn't seem to work... because on the left side it manages to give me a relatively acceptable height in relation to the plane, while on the right side it doesn't. And I don't understand why.
Tomorrow I will try to modify the map manually, so that I can "force" the compensation only on the right side of the plate.
The new deck is being designed, but it requires structural modifications that I cannot install on this one due to lack of space. I will also have to completely redo the Y-axis, which in this way has limitations that I don't like. But we'll talk about that in late spring!
Good morning
It all seems to work quite well.
Now I just have to figure out how to solve a problem on the Y axis, mostly due to the type of "transmission" used and complete the settings ... before moving on to the print tests!
This is the X axis test: https://youtu.be/UG27txKxALk
@fcwilt Yes, I know that, but at the moment I am not interested in exceptional quality. I just want it to print what I want, how I want it and without too many mistakes.
I will slowly replace the various "definitive" PLA parts with aluminium alloy equivalents, so that all the mechanics become more stable. At that point, having in the meantime replaced the round guides (X and Z with MGN15 recirculating ball bearings), I will be able to create the 20x20 mesh.
Thank you
I think pin #8 of the Duet should be connected to pin 3V0 of the LIS3DH
I fixed the errors in the code.
if job.build != null
if job.layer != null && job.layer <= 5
M140 S50
elif job.layer != null && job.layer > 5
if job.layer < 20
if heat.heaters[0].current < 40
M140 S50
if heat.heaters[0].current > 50
M140 S40
else
M140 S0
if job.build != null
if job.layer != null && job.layer <= 5
M140 S50
elif job.layer != null && job.layer > 5
if ((job.file.numLayers*20)/100) < 20
if heat.heaters[0].current < 40
M140 S50
if heat.heaters[0].current > 50
M140 S40
else
M140 S0
seems to be working
The support base (tile), rests on a support structure. On it is glued a layer of Mica. Then, simply resting on top of each other, are the heater with the aluminum plate, and on top I will mount a 4 mm glass plate with Buildtak.
The silicone pad at the moment I set it on the plate with the thermal paste that is used for processors, hoping it will do the trick. I don't have silicone at the moment.
I've seen the kenovo before, but they don't have the size I need. I will have to contact them directly.
Centering of the aluminum plate and glass is done by 4 plastic angles tightened together with a steel cable equipped with a spring. Nothing fancy. The plate does not move anyway-in my case it is fixed.
Anyway, thank you.
I will update in the next few days.
I will update you
I removed the silicone heater and did some testing by simply resting the 4mm aluminum panel on the heater--more or less free to expand. The problem persists, although the printing surface struggles quite a bit to heat up--perhaps the air remaining between the silicone pad and the bottom surface of the aluminum does not allow sufficient heat transfer.
Then I removed the Buildtak surface and did some more testing....
Apparently this is the cause of the huge deformation that I encountered above. The Buildtak should not be applied directly to the aluminum panel because it tends to act as a "heat insulator" and thus cause the plane to warp.
As soon as I find a way to re-glue the silicone pad under the aluminum, I will do more tests and put back the 4 mm glass I had previously.
I will let you know.
In the meantime, the 1200w, 220v, 600x600 mm silicone heater, identical to the one I have, I can no longer find!
Do you have any useful links to well-stocked online stores?
this is my idea:
this is my idea
I take an 8mm 6061-T6 aluminum sheet and apply the silicone heater under it.
On this slab I lay the 4mm one with the Buildtak mat on it.
Theoretically it should work. What do you guys say?
with the modular solution based on 4 separate heating modules, I would have several interchangeable printing surfaces, one of 300x300mm, one of 600x300mm and one of 600x600mm, to be replaced as needed.
I live in Italy, with 220v voltage and 16A outlets, so I have no problem.
1200W with the 4mm aluminum top is enough and it takes about 3 minutes to go from about 16 to 60°C.
With a single 10mm aluminum plane it surely becomes a few--or would take longer anyway.
I don't know what would be the best solution!
I actually meant spring steel -- not stainless, I was wrong.
the current heater is a silicon pad 220v 1200w with dimensions 600x600mm, it was not easy to find it 2 years ago, but I made it.
What I don't like is not being able to replace each component quickly and easily.
I was thinking of a PCB but I would have to have it custom made.
With 4 silicone pads of commercial ones, attached under the relevant aluminum plates of about 300x300 mm (what thickness though?), I could solve it, mounting the steel plate on top. To keep it in place, I could insert 2 mm wide magnets along the outer perimeter and between the 4 aluminum plates.
This is my current connection scheme.
Having the electronics mounted in an external and separate totem from the printer body, and using a 220v 1200w silicon pad, I mounted an SSR in the totem and connected everything as shown in the schematic.
Instead, this is the pattern I would go to use.
Each silicone pad would have 300w, which at 24 volts would be 12.5A, more than double what the printer can handle. It is likely that 300W would also be too much, considering that the aluminum pad, being smaller in size, could have a reduced thickness compared to 10 mm, but even assuming 200W, the draw would still be excessive. Going down to only 120-140W (max 6A@24v) might take too long.
With this solution, I would take advantage of the existing 220 connection cable to power the 4 SSRs.
Good morning
So, I have made some verifications and in the first instance the cause of these deformations can be attributed to the aluminum plate which is only 4 mm thick. A greater thickness, perhaps 8 or 10, would prevent such deformations.
That said...to replace it I would have to detach the Buildtak, which is already ruined, as well as the 1200 W 220v silicone heater.
So the solutions, also to improve its usability, are essentially 2:
single plate
From bottom to top...: support base, MICA thermoelectric insulation, heating pad, aluminum plate, 0.2 mm thick stainless steel sheet with the Buildtak that can be easily replaced with a similar sheet with PEI mat.
Modular plate consisting of 4 equal parts
From bottom to top...: support base, single module support base, insulator, heating PCB, aluminum plate, 0.2 mm thick stainless steel sheet with the Buildtak that can be easily replaced with a similar sheet with PEI mat. With this second solution, only 1, 2 or all 4 modules can also be heated, replacing the steel printing plate with the printing mat as needed (300x300, 600x300, 600x600mm)
In the former case the heater would be controlled as now, that is, by relay with 24volt coil. In the second case some other possibility could be considered, but I do not know which one.
On the Duet2 I currently use the output for the Heated Bed to control the 220v relay coil.
However, there are the 5 heater outputs on the Duex5 with the corresponding inputs for the Thermistors.
This could be controlled through the Duex. What do you think? What do you recommend?
Good morning everyone,
I need your help to find a final solution for my (fixed) printing table of 600x600 mm (useful printing dimensions).
It is currently structured as follows:
BuildTak Original 3D Printing Surface (610x610mm)
4mm aluminum plate (620x620mm)
1200w silicone heater (600x600mm)
1.5mm mica insulator (600x600mm)
45mm thick wooden support base (600x600mm)
After applying the mat to the aluminum plate (big mistake), I found an all too obvious deformation ... of more than 1.1 mm in the center that no longer allows me to print.
Until last month I had a 280x280mm mat and the deformation in the center was much less noticeable ... and I could print well thanks to mesh compensation.
Now it is no longer possible for me.
I was thinking of buying a 10mm Alcoa Mic6 sheet, but I would like to avoid directly applying the silicone heater and printing mat to it.
Maybe a PCB heater with 6mm aluminum thermal mass and a glass plate with mat on top? or what?
What do you recommend?
This should work. I only did one test and it seems to have gone well.
This is the variable declaration at the bottom of the config.g:
global Bed_layers_initial_number = 1
global Bed_layers_initial_temperature = 2
global Bed_layers_limit_number = 3
global Bed_layers_limit_lower_temperature = 4
global Bed_layers_limit_highest_temperature = 5
This is the "variabili.g" macro with which the values passed via gcode are set:
;variabili.g
set global.Bed_layers_initial_number = param.A
set global.Bed_layers_initial_temperature = param.B
set global.Bed_layers_limit_number = param.C
set global.Bed_layers_limit_lower_temperature = param.D
set global.Bed_layers_limit_highest_temperature = param.E
This is the gcode line in the superslicer settings for PETG filament:
; Filament gcode
M98 P"variabili.g" A15 B{first_layer_bed_temperature} C44 D40 E{bed_temperature}
This is the same gcode line in the print file:
; Filament gcode
M98 P"variabili.g" A15 B60 C44 D40 E50
And finally, this is my updated daemon.g file:
if job.build != null
if job.layer != null && job.layer < {global.Bed_layers_initial_number}
M140 S{global.Bed_layers_initial_temperature}
if job.layer != null && job.layer >= {global.Bed_layers_initial_number} && job.layer < (job.file.numLayers*{global.Bed_layers_limit_number})/100
if heat.heaters[0].current < {global.Bed_layers_limit_lower_temperature}
M140 S{global.Bed_layers_limit_highest_temperature}
if heat.heaters[0].current > {global.Bed_layers_limit_highest_temperature}
M140 S{global.Bed_layers_limit_lower_temperature}
if job.layer != null && job.layer > (job.file.numLayers*{global.Bed_layers_limit_number})/100
M140 S0
In SuperSlicer, I have the ability to set up a GCode script for each filament set up.
This script is inserted just before the printing starts.
I would insert a number of variables into it, like this:
; Filament gcode
;Bed_layers_initial_number = 15
;Bed_layers_initial_temperature = {first_layer_bed_temperature}
;Bed_layers_limit_number = 44
;Bed_layers_limit_lower_temperature = 40
;Bed_layers_limit_highest_temperature = {bed_temperature}
At this point, from the duet daemon.g I would like to read those values and replace them in the script at the beginning of this post.