@dc42 said in Software bundle 3.5.0rc.4 now available:
Duet in standalone mode I have included a release zip for this version. This means that you can simply upload file Duet2and3Firmware-3.5.0-rc.4.zip
Just reporting I have done a fair bit of testing with the latest version on a cartesian printer with Duet2 wifi in standalone mode. I uploaded Duet2and3Firmware-3.5.0-rc.4.zip which installed without issues.
Printing well using both Input Shaping and Pressure Advance. No Wifi issues.
Thank you!
@Phaedrux I would like to add some information to this issue which will hopefully be helpful.
I have a simple setup, Ender 5 Pro with Duet 2 Wifi in standalone mode, no toolboards or other attachments. Running 3.5.0-beta.3.
I just finished installing an LGX Lite extruder and custom fan setup. I calibrated esteps and had some strange issues.
From the PanelDue Extrude retracts and Retract extrudes. I thought I had the direction backwards for the LGX Lite but I did not.
Strangely prints seemed to work. However doing more testing this morning I noticed that the purge at the start of a print actually retracts the purge amount. But then the print proceeds normally.
The same thing happens with the Panel Due in that at some point (seems random) the direction corrects itself.
My point is it may be a more general issue than just toolboards.
If you need any testing done I will be calibrating this printer all day so happy to oblige.
PrusaSlicer is telling your printer to move farther than the bed limits in your config file. That is why the back end of your print is cut off.
It looks like the bed dimensions shown in PrusaSlicer do not match your actual bed so that has to be fixed.
Your part is centered on the bed in the slicer but not on the actual bed.
I have found these issues are related to the origin in the 'bed shape' for PrusaSlicer but the way to fix it is rather complex.
First set the origin in PrusaSlicer Printer Settings - Size and coordinates - Bed Shape - Set to X:0 Y:0. I know that is not how you are supposed to do it but it is the only way I could get it to work. My X = 0 is actually X = +7mm on the bed but I ignore that.
Measure the total movement of your nozzle from your 0, 0 point to the maximum in X and Y. Set those values as the X and Y Size in Bed Shape - Settings.
On my printer my total X travel is 364mm and Y travel is 387mm.
In config.g M208 (Axis Limits) set these same X and Y values. So for my printer:
M208 X0:364 Y0:387
The final part of the solution is to create a custom bed image to show the actual bed limits.
To do this create an image where one pixel = 1mm. This makes it much easier to draw an image to scale. Draw the image to reflect the actual origin. It should also show any keep out zones. In my case I have a glass sheet with bed clips all around. The clips extend 5mm into the bed.
Here is my bed image as an example (Creality Ender 5+ with LGX Lite Pro and REVOsix):
Load the image in PrusaSlicer Printer Settings - Size and coordinates - Bed Shape - Set - Texture - Load and select your custom bed image.
I used a solid red border to indicate where the clips are. Orange is where I do not like to print as it is too close to the edge of the bed. Notice on the left side there is no red area because the nozzle can not reach far enough to touch the clips so there is no danger of hitting them.
The black/striped area at the front of the bed is where the nozzle can reach but there is no bed under it.
This allows me to place objects on the bed in Prusa Slicer and have them print in those exact locations on the actual bed.
I hope that helps.
Very pleased your printer is working again.
Please let us know how the pressure advance is working in your other topic. Very interested to see if this upgrade fixed your issue.
The test print worked perfectly.
So the Y shifts were due to a configuration error on my part. The motors do need more current to meet the demands of input shaping.
The motors got a bit hotter than I would like by the end of the print but most people would call them warm so that is interesting for me. I will bump up the current in my configs.
Thank you both for the suggestions.
Hi,
Printenstein III used to be my Ender 5 Pro. Over the years it has changed a bit with the addition of Duet2Wifi, E3D motors, Dual Y, Dual Z, Bondtech LGX Lite Pro Revo 6 extruder.
I had some fun with it this week.
The Lapworth Museum of Geology put a very high resolution scan of a Megalodon tooth on Scan The World a few years ago.
It can be found here:
[https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-megalodon-fossil-shark-tooth-81202](link url)
I printed one full size on my resin printer last year and it came out beautifully.
Just for fun I wondered if I could print a big one on my filament printer.
Running it through the slicer it would take about 15 hours with a 0.4mm nozzle. Loads of supports required around the base. So I resliced for a 0.6mm nozzle. Still more than 12 hours and loads of supports.
But what if I could turn in at an angle to eliminate islands and make it a vase mode print?
So I tried it on my Printenstein III and it worked perfectly. 1 hour and 20 minutes for the main tooth and 8 minutes for the cut off piece. No supports, completely hollow.
There is a difficult folded bit at the bottom back side so I cut that off and printed it as a separate vase mode print. It needed to have a base anyway so cutting was essential.
Proof that it's hollow:
The original file produces a 13cm tooth (measuring the long edge of the tooth - everyone knows that's how you measure a meg tooth). The 0.6mm nozzle version is a 19cm tooth.
I thought that was great but I've seen Meg and Meg 2 so it seemed a bit of a baby Meg tooth even though the largest fossil Meg tooth ever found was about 19cm.
So I put in my 0.8mm high flow nozzle and printed the tooth again. I used 0.1mm layers and scaled it up a bit more.
This time there was a slight issue on the undercut area but the printer kept going and recovered beautifully.
So the big one being printed with the 0.6mm one beside it for scale:
Proof that it too is completely hollow too:
And all three compared:
The prints are not flawless because there will be holes in the shell but they can be easily filled:
Everyone needs a giant Meg tooth on their shelf.
Happy printing,
Tony.
@jay_s_uk beat me to it. 22Hz does seem low. From your earlier photo it looks like you are using a Delta printer. All of mine are cartesian so I hope my information is applicable. My printers are in the 38 to 45 Hz range. Others on the forum with Deltas are in the 50Hz range. Check your accelerometer is mounted securely.
You should be able to run the input shaping plugin then set a center frequency as you have done. You should then be able to pick an input shaper at the right and do another run to see the effect. I haven't done that last step lately. Instead I just set the frequency in my config and run a test print because there can be undesireable effects from some input shaping settings.
If you have Pressure Advance enabled turn that off. You will have to recheck PA again after you have selected your ideal Input Shaper and frequency/damping.
Instead of 0.2 Damping Factor try 0.1 or 0.
I am not sure a benchy is the best test for Input Shaping. Try the Klipper ringing_tower.stl in vase mode. Many other issues can affect a Benchy. The Ringing_Tower makes the Input Shaping changes very visible. Edit your gcode to change input shapers every 5mm or so then decide which one you are happiest with.
I hope these suggestions are valid for your printer.
I am wondering if commas and decimals are interchangeable in config.g.
Your M566 uses commas and the rest use decimals.
@carlinicompetizione said in Problems from the second layer to the 7th layer:
M566 X500,00 Y500,00 Z300,00 E1200,00 ; definir alterações instantâneas máximas de velocidade (mm/min)
M203 X3000.00 Y3000.00 Z1000.00 E1200.00 ; definir velocidades máximas (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z250.00 E1200.00 ; definir acelerações (mm/s^2)
@o_lampe See MakersMuse latest video where he converts rotary motion to linear motion to sine wave using a Scotch Yoke.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wko3SWiV1DM
Not sure if it will be useful for you but might inspire some ideas.
First try this version of DWC which has some accelerometer data gathering issues corrected:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qd4OQXAwT2fin9BYjAkfLMPyyukXC77A
This was provided by @chrishamm and @jay_s_uk
@o_lampe OpenSCAD might be able to do it.
This link has an example file but it would require a lot of changes to simulate the Scotch Yoke.
https://www.instructables.com/Animating-with-OpenSCAD/
You can download their example at the bottom of the page.
@o_lampe See MakersMuse latest video where he converts rotary motion to linear motion to sine wave using a Scotch Yoke.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wko3SWiV1DM
Not sure if it will be useful for you but might inspire some ideas.
Are you using Gates pulleys as well? It is very important to have pulleys where the hole is perfectly centered and the perfect diameter. The teeth must be an exact match to the belt tooth pattern as well.
When you place the pulley on the motor driveshaft there should be no play. That way when you tighten the set screws they will not be able to force the pulley off-center.
Best of luck,
Tony.
@Phaedrux Thanks for that info. I thought I would have to flag posts and user.
Hi,
The forum is getting spammed big time this evening. Offering to sell everything from CBD to counterfeit money.
It is a bit tedious to flag so many posts using the existing reporting method. I know, I know, it's pretty easy as it is but I found it annoying this evening.
Maybe the ability to right click in the post subject listing and report without having to open the message, go to the bottom, then select the option to report.
Just a suggestion.
Thanks,
Tony.
P.S.
Also being able to report user and post at the same time as spam would be very helpful.
Hi,
Printenstein III used to be my Ender 5 Pro. Over the years it has changed a bit with the addition of Duet2Wifi, E3D motors, Dual Y, Dual Z, Bondtech LGX Lite Pro Revo 6 extruder.
I had some fun with it this week.
The Lapworth Museum of Geology put a very high resolution scan of a Megalodon tooth on Scan The World a few years ago.
It can be found here:
[https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-megalodon-fossil-shark-tooth-81202](link url)
I printed one full size on my resin printer last year and it came out beautifully.
Just for fun I wondered if I could print a big one on my filament printer.
Running it through the slicer it would take about 15 hours with a 0.4mm nozzle. Loads of supports required around the base. So I resliced for a 0.6mm nozzle. Still more than 12 hours and loads of supports.
But what if I could turn in at an angle to eliminate islands and make it a vase mode print?
So I tried it on my Printenstein III and it worked perfectly. 1 hour and 20 minutes for the main tooth and 8 minutes for the cut off piece. No supports, completely hollow.
There is a difficult folded bit at the bottom back side so I cut that off and printed it as a separate vase mode print. It needed to have a base anyway so cutting was essential.
Proof that it's hollow:
The original file produces a 13cm tooth (measuring the long edge of the tooth - everyone knows that's how you measure a meg tooth). The 0.6mm nozzle version is a 19cm tooth.
I thought that was great but I've seen Meg and Meg 2 so it seemed a bit of a baby Meg tooth even though the largest fossil Meg tooth ever found was about 19cm.
So I put in my 0.8mm high flow nozzle and printed the tooth again. I used 0.1mm layers and scaled it up a bit more.
This time there was a slight issue on the undercut area but the printer kept going and recovered beautifully.
So the big one being printed with the 0.6mm one beside it for scale:
Proof that it too is completely hollow too:
And all three compared:
The prints are not flawless because there will be holes in the shell but they can be easily filled:
Everyone needs a giant Meg tooth on their shelf.
Happy printing,
Tony.
@luc Also I should have removed the semicolons in front of each line before posting the code. I now use another acclerometer.
@luc You have to send M955 P0. Sorry early in the day for me! There are defaults for the other settings which is why it works for you.
@luc That is the hardware wiring part of M955. You must also tell Duet the communication settings.
;M955 P0 C"spi.cs4+spi.cs3";LIS3DH
;M955 P0 I25 S1344 R10 ; S1344 is 1344Hz sample rate. R10 is 10 bit resolution for LIS3DH.
You can enter all of the parameters on one line if you like.
Make sure to check your orientation for the I parameter and insert the appropriate two numbers.
@luc Please note GND is on pin 2 of the temperature daughterboard connector, not pin 3 as you listed.