@martin1454 said in Ender 3 nothing working right:
I think it is amazing that you have installed an Duet wifi in a printer that cost almost the same as the duet
Looking foward to see then end result.
My Maestro Ender 3 works fantastic. I saw it as a cheap way to acquire the basic bits, and build what I wanted. I probably could have sourced the same parts from China for less, but this was a lot easier and faster.
@brunofporto said in Indirect (bearing) laser filament monitor concept:
@steveyyc Unfortunately yes....
The direct bearing seems too slippery for this use.
I'll think about another solution.
The best answer would be a garnet blast or something similar on the external diameter.
@t3p3tony Actually, it wouldn't surprise me if that other board is just the WiFi. He said if you have an Octoprint you don't need the hub. They designed it to integrate with Octoprint. So even though the Duet already has wireless and much of the Octoprint functionality, at least in the short term you probably need either the hub or an Octoprint Pi for this to work over network. One way or another you need a USB connection from Palette2 or Pi. I'm not really a fan of depending on USB for expensive multi-day print jobs. I fully understand why they went this way. For the Pro I believe they will eventually need the ability to have all communication over wired ethernet, or something equally robust.
What kind of part cooling?
Can anyone provide me with the baseline settings for speeds and etc. for an Ender 3? I'm not sure how many people have installed the Duet on one. I guess I could find the settings in the Marlin code from GitHub, but I was hoping someone had the Duet settings handy to just copy/paste. Or even the JSON file would work. Mine is working, but I'm not sure how well it's optimized.
@brunofporto Thanks, I'm starting with your design on my Ender 3 printed with eSun black PLA. I think you need a bit more surface area "bite" on the tubing.
I have had those on both my printers. In both cases I had seepage, so an extra thermal bridge formed by schmutz between heat sink and heat block. FYI
@dc42 said in Configuring 12864 LCD on Maestro?:
The most common connection scheme for 12864 displays is the one used by the RepRapDiscount Smart Graphics Controller. This is an open source design described at https://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_Controller. That was in turn based on the connections used by 20x4 text displays. Unfortunately the display on the Ender 3 uses a different scheme.
A single 10-way connection would in principle be sufficient for a display without a SD card socket, but doesn't provide enough pins for both the LCD and the SD card.
Figures 
And apparently Creality inverted the pins. The display has no SD card. They managed to get the display and the encoder over a single 8 pin cable to their CPU board. I guess the Maestro has pins needed for the encoder on one connector and the display on another one.
Almost nothing on the Ender matches Duet wiring. I had to juggle wires everywhere on mine. Creality doesn't even follow industry standards when they exist
Let me add that mine prints amazingly well now
Solutech clear green PETG
Duet3D laser filament monitor on endstop input 3, disabled, allowed movement 40% to 120%, check every 3.0mm, current position -1.7, brightness 107, shutter 17, measured minimum 31%, average 79%, maximum 97% over 17533.6mm
I have a Duet Maestro in my Ender 3 Pro. So far I have had to set it up piecemeal. I have yet to find a comprehensive Creality upgrade guide. I'm trying to get the original display working now since the Maestro board supports it. But the menu system has to be pieced together. You can walk through the default config.g and adapt it to the Ender a bit at a time without too much trouble.
Thanks for all the help. My cables will arrive tomorrow.
Has anyone determined if the Ender display can support the second SD card? And what may be lacking to add it? Just curious if a full size SD card is possible to add.
That Prusa one on Thingy manages with one bearing. And weirdly it seems to read the side of the bearing instead of the circumference. Presumably you will want some kind of weak spring in there somewhere keeping tension on the filament without wearing out the tubing.
My cables arrived, and I have the display working. It seems the default menu system with RC5 doesn't work out of the box. I messed around a bit before leaving for work, but has anyone put together a working menu system (starting point) for the Ender 3. It appears that a single file makes the whole RC5 menu system operate named "menu" that is absent on my Maestro. (edit: OK, I noticed this is mentioned in the RC5 release notes, so I guess DC is workin on it already)
I also notice the artifacts mentioned with the two cable solution. I hope we can track down the cause at some point.
Thanks to everyone who has pitched in.
@nikker said in Problems with new Laser Filament Monitor:
What about some knock off Bondtech gears?
I don't think you want to distort the filament that much before it reaches the real extruder.
After a lot of tweaking to control blobbing I started a 12 hour PETG vase print last night running RC5. I still can't do a filament load, but the print was looking very good as far as layer quality. This morning I found the printer stopped dead in mid-print. All of the normal lights were lit on the board except the wifi light was off. I hit reset and it came up normally. I don't have any way to determine what may have happened with about a third of the vase left to print. And yesterday during the tweaking phase I seem to have caused a low temp failure by pausing a print. The screen dialog indicated I could have resumed the print after resetting the printer, but it wasn't clear how. Is this a development feature that isn't actually implemented yet?
edit: Oops, looks like I had a power dropout that caused the printer to stop dead. So that mystery is solved at least.
Just a followup. I find the stepper connectors to be very tedious and fidgety to crimp, and assemble. The wire I ordered "seems" to be a decent quality. I did not have a single failed cable connection. It was annoying that the end stop switches were 2.54mm pitch and the steppers were 2mm pitch. I failed to notice and had to order more stuff to complete the work. I forgot at the last minute to add the wire twist to the motor cables So far everything seems to be working. And for the first time since I got the Precision Piezo Z sensor I have reliable operation. The wire I used was sketchy and it caused many crashes into the bed. I also beefed up my bed mounts using Materhackers Ryno. All in all my CoreXY is a far better machine than ever before. Now I'm dealing with issues surrounding going to a .6mm nozzle. My CoreXY is my larger format 300x3 printer. My Ender is my 200x3. I had the worst nozzle blockage I've ever experienced AFTER I realized the hot end cooling fan wasn't running. This was the first time I have had to resort to a butane torch to clear the blockage. Joys of the hobby.
@adrian52 My 693ZZ bearings are 4.3mm wide. Is your version suitable for this width bearing? The bearings on Amazon don't seem to be 4mm as the specs would indicate. Judging by the pictures of most of them. Also, my first print doesn't come close to fitting Capricorn tubing.
