Posts made by bass4aj

@dc42 I have been working on modifying the E3D toolchanger code to work with the Duet 3, so I guess I just didn't notice, but that's a great point! Though that still doesn't solve the bed mesh problem right? I have attached my config.g and my homez.g @droftarts

homez.g config.g

@Danal io4.in appears not to work either. I also added the K0 to the 558 command just in case there was an issue there. still get the G28 Z failure

io3 appears not to work either. I will try io4 quickly.

So currently just using

M558 P5 C"io0.in" H3 F360 T20000

and when it gets to the Home Z scripts, I get a "Failed to enable endstops" on G28 Z

I am pretty sure before that I only had the M574 command, and the bed mesh compensation was still manual. If I only set the M558, how will it know which pin is the Z endstop for homing?

I am trying to set up a non-retracting switch as both the Z-endstop and the Z probe for mesh leveling. Currently, I have the following lines of code:

M574 P"io0.in" Z1 S1 ; Set Z endstop probe
M558 P5 C"io0.in" H3 F360 T20000

The z-endstop works correctly, but trying to run bed mesh compensation causes it to force manual leveling, which means something is wrong with my z-probe config. Anyone know what I am doing wrong?

Yeah, my main thing is I still use small 5V blowers for some cases, so its sad to see the 5V option gone... guess I will just need to use a buck reg. Thanks for the help.

I have both 24V and 5V fans that I need to connect to a Duet 3. On other duet boards, this was accomplished just by adjusting a jumper that either set voltage to V_IN or 5V. On the Duet 3, I am confused what the jumpers on the diagram are telling me. It seems like it can take voltage from either a 12V-36V power source, or 12V, but it doesn't seem able to drive 5V fans from what I can tell on the diagram. Currently, I am only powering the board with a single 24V power supply.

Can someone help explain how this works and correct my understanding? I would like to avoid frying anything through trial and error

@dc42 Thanks, that did the trick

I used to have my printer set up as M667 S1 X-1 (CoreXY with the x axis reversed). With the command now deprecated, how can I recreate that motion with the M669 Kinematics matrix? I don't really understand how the matrix works.

@dc42, what kind of things could cause L2 to fail? I should also mention I saw a different thread in the forum with a similar bed issue (but not quite the same). In that post, you suggested to disconnect the bed ground and tape it to the frame. On the first board when I did that, the bed heat light stayed on, but the bed stopped heating up on start-up if that helps.

@dc42 I also just confirmed, its not U3 that blew. L2 blew. I was touching it with a pick and the whole part just fell off lol

@veti there is no resistance between either heater/thermistor. Both heaters have some resistance. Looks normal. @dc42 Its some generic supply that M3D put on the Promega printer. Its a 24V supply. DWC reads a constant 23.7V or so, and a check with the multimeter (after detaching from the board) shows 24.1V.

@veti Ah gotcha. I will get those checked and post back. Thanks

@veti resistance between heater and thermistor? The heater is a pcb bed and the thermistor is a cartridge style pt1000 attached by Kapton tape. Or are they linked through the board somehow?

@arkadiusz good idea. do you know what I should look for with a multimeter? I agree its likely hardware but I am not sure how/what to look at.

@stephen6309 What does U3 control, and what could cause it to blow? I have yet to test it, but I am wondering if maybe there is a short in the PCB bed? there is no visible burning or damage, but I did notice it was heating unevenly before I blew the board.

The board is on standoffs and the first one did not have the wires going behind, that was just a quick thing that happened for the second board. The stepper drivers have ran fine like this for months, and the second board blew in minutes. I double checked the wires behind the board and they are undamaged, and not creating any contacts that could short.

I should also mention that nothing appears obviously shorted or damaged elsewhere on the printer.

I am not quite sure what happened. I am running a Duet 2 Maestro. My printer has been running flawlessly on 20hr prints for weeks. I moved it to another location, and after attempting a single print, the print would freeze after the first layer and my bed would not stop heating up. The bed heat light would turn on as soon as I power on my printer and stay on even with the SD card removed.

I switched to a backup duet 2 maestro and it looked good when I powered up. When I tried another print, the same thing occurred. While troubleshooting, I attempted a different print file, which blew a chip on the board. No idea what changed that could cause such an issue!