Hi ! I know you've solved the problem you initially asked about. I'm wondering it you could give my some info on how tricky putting a Duet board on a WASP delta was? I have a WASP 60100 (build 2017) and would love to upgrade it with a Duetboard and maybe a E3D Volcano hotend. But, I'm not really sure what I'm getting myself into Would you mind me asking a couple of newbie questions about your process?
Best posts made by CHarding
Latest posts made by CHarding
RE: Endstop problem DeltaWasp
RE: How to keep the bed heated for a while after print is done?
I currently have this:
;Retract the filament
G1 E-1 F300
G28 X0 Y0
Good idea with the G4, I wasn't aware that that exists. I'll give it a try - thanks!
(I've done some more digging in the forum and it seems that there's a discussion (May 2019) about a official way to set heater time outs. Apparently, it's now on DC42's wish list ... )
How to keep the bed heated for a while after print is done?
First, my apologies if is already described somewhere with some G-code magic or even in the web interface but sadly my search foo seems lacking ...
After I'm done printing I want to keep the bed at the print temperature for a while, maybe 45 mins. Right now I think it stays on for a bit but I've now had several occasions where I wanted to print again after 45 mins it was back to room temp. This is especially silly with ABS and a 110C bed temp, which takes a while to get to.
So, question: is there some sort of setting for when the bed switches off after a print?
(More info: I'm using Cura, which does have a post-print gcode snippet that a g-code config command could go into ...)
RE: PEI surface without adhesive?
@nxt-1 I've tried exactly the same for my Wasp 60100 delta (60 cm buildplate). Got a 60 cm 1 mm thick sheet of PEI without adhesive and initially taped it down with kapton on the fringe. However, the PEI does warp when heated (even at 60C, more so at 100C) and not only pulled off the tape on the fringe but also bulged in the centre area. I then added spokes of double-sided kapton tape which mostly prevented the bulging in the centre: But, even then, it still lifted off the kapton tape at the fringe by several mm after a couple of hours, which would ruin the very large prints I want to do. There might be better/smarter solutions using other types of tape (better adhesive) or other ways of placing the tape but at this point the work to tape it down sufficiently somehow is way too much work. I'm wondering if I should have gone with a much thinner sheet thickness b/c the warping is probably less (?) but I don't know how thin is still practical and I'm not about to spend another $150 to find out. No sure what I'll do with the 1 mm sheet I have but I either have to perma glue it to the bed or find a springsteel/magnetic solution for it ...
Duet3d ethernet + mini IR probe on WASP 60100?
I have a Wasp 60100 delta printer that I want to run with a Duet3d Ethernet board and add a Mini IR Probe. I've just finished upgraded a Anycubic Kossel Plus with a Duet3d Ethernet board so I have some experience, however, I'm still pretty clueless with electronics. For the AnyKubic, somebody had already figured out decent settings for config.g to start with and I've love avoiding having to figure them out for myself on the WASP. So, if somebody has settings for config.g and could share them with me, I'd be ever so gratefull!