Topics created by CHarding

@ droftarts @deckingman Thank you for your input.

The main issue was that the cabling on my version of the LDO motor (which I bought in late 2022) is "unusual". On my YRBG (Yellow, Red, Blue, Green) cabeling, YR should be one pair and BG the other.

(Note that the colors of my LDO, do NOT match the colors used on the RevA spec sheet: https://www.bondtech.se/downloads/TDS/HT-LDO-36STH20-1004AHG(XH)-RevA.pdf !)

However, after using the short-out-a-pair method for establishing the pairs from here: https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Connecting_hardware/Motors_connecting it turns out that the two pairs in fact are GR and YB! The following mapping of the cables to the A+/A- B+/B- notation the Duet board uses seems to work:

A+ => Green A- => Red B+ => Yellow B- => Blue

(Note: there maybe other valid mappings, this is just the first one I tried and it works for me)

Cheers

Chris

If you want to print a 160mm by 160mm square, you need a safe printing DIAMETER of:

SQRT((160*160)*2)) = 226.27

So, you need a safe printing radius of 113 (and a little more)

Also, you need x=0 and y=0 to be in the center of your build plate.

From your photo, it <looks> like you have enough room.
If you move the print head by hand with the printer off (SLOWLY so you don't damage your drivers) can you move the extruder out to where the corner would be for each of the corners without jamming on anything?

If you can, I would increase the safe printing radius and try a print.

I don't know why your outer wall lines are too far inside where they are supposed to be.

To get the value of the G31 offset, I use the paper method to get the nozzle where I want above the bed, change my M665 Hxxx height by whatever it I'm off by (increase by the value by the height above Z0 or decrease it by the height below Z0). Home, and do it again to make sure it's consistent. Then I just move the nozzle up by 5mm and do a G30 S-1, it'll spit out the trigger height. Do that a couple times to make sure it's consistent or take the average if I don't want to hunt for the issue. That number it spits out I throw into the G31 Z probe trigger height, so when it calibrates it only takes a baby step during the the start of a print to get the height just right.

If you want to you can also change the probe speed to lower the variation in trigger height from the probe's response speed. M558 F300 is probably around +/- .01mm variation which ends up with a max of up to .02mm difference in probe measurement just from how fast it responds to the detection. M558 F150 would be +/- .005 mm and M558 F60 would be +/-.002 which is typically smaller than the microsteps at that point.

Thanks for the tip and the chat - I've responded to T3P3Tony.

@charding You might also consider putting insulation under the bed if you are able to do so (or increasing the amount of insulation if you already have some. It will, a) speed up the warm up time and, b) slow down the cool down time.