Worked thanks guys

@Corexy said in Plain old inductive sensor for Z height?:

he event my bed isn't flat I'm not so sure. I've got the IR probe on my other machine, and while the startup homing is always perfect it doesn't do a good mesh map with my Printbite surface. I was looking at going with a genuine BLTouch, but the reviews are mixed at best on that one too.
I'm really considering going to a good old fashioned inductive sensor, possibly the 12mm diameter body with the 4mm gap that seems popular.
I've just seen that Toms review video on Z probes ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=il9bNWn66BY ) while and I don't mind paying for a good thing, these inductive probes seemed to be right up there for performance and down there for cost...no moving parts either.
I'm using a Duet 2 wifi board. Will it run one of the 5v units directly, or should I go with the 6-36v . Will this board run a PINDA sensor correctly?
This is actually not a cost saving measure, it's more about reliable utilitarian operation. Are all these new probes that

I played with a bunch of sensors, some $80 plus and came to the conclusion a inductive sensor with a flexible steel build plate was best, always get a perfect zero. Some sensors advertise 5v compatibility but it messes with their trigger distance and accuracy. Just run it 24 and setup a voltage divider. Oh and make sure you test the output voltage with a volt meter, better safe than sorry.

I think a hi point mesh and reloading the grid is the way togo. How stable is your bed, is it removable ? If your printer is mechanically stable i dont see an issue with reloading the grid.

@Corexy
yes, the smaller bodies seem to have a closer trigger range, which might be a big deal but i wanted a good safety margin.

@oozeBot
IS that a core xy printer?

I found the problem, the brass insert failed for the extruder, so the arm wasn't holding tension.

@sebkritikel said in using mosquito hotend in heated chamber:

o you also have a heated build plate (or does the build plate drive the chamber temperature)? What material at what temperature?
Stock fan or other fan?

yea stock fan with an independent chamber heater and bed.
Heated chamber at 60 c for abs 250c hotend. heated chamber at 30c and 240 hotend for petg.

@whopping-pochard
started at 1 mm went to .9 at 30mms

Anyone using a mosquito hot end in a heated chamber with air cooling, im getting clogs and under extrusion about 3/4 the way through a benchy test prints. The only material that prints without an issue is polymaker polycarbonate, probably due to its high glass transition temp.

yes i am. so would i replace h# with s3

Just trying to setup a thermostatic fan for my duet board cooling using a thermistor on e0temp . Whats tripping me up is would i need to create a new heater or can i just assign a sensor number? im using a thermocouple in place of my old e0 thermistor.

sample of what im trying put in my config
Heaters;
M308 S3 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 3 as thermistor for board temp

;fans

M950 F2 C"fan2" Q500 ; create fan 2 on pin fan2 and set its frequency
M106 P1 S1 H# T50 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned on

Hes a copy of my config, fan2 thermostic control is currently off but the plan is to get it to turn on when e0 temp is above 50c

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B1 S1.00 ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S115 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 115C
M308 S1 P"spi.cs1" Y"rtd-max31865" ; configure sensor 1 as thermocouple via CS pin spi.cs1
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M308 S2 P"e1temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 2 as thermistor on pin e1temp
M950 H2 C"e1heat" T2 ; create chamber heater output on e1heat and map it to sensor 2
M307 H2 B1 S1.00 ; enable bang-bang mode for the chamber heater and set PWM limit
M141 H2 ; map chamber to heater 2
M143 H2 S75 ; set temperature limit for Chamber to 75C

; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan0" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
M106 P1 S1 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned on
M950 F2 C"fan2" Q500 ; create fan 2 on pin fan2 and set its frequency
M106 P2 S0 H-1 ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

https://www.dbk-group.com/us/dbk-solutions/industrial-thermal-management/enclosures/heating/fan-heaters/cirrus-series/cirrus-60/189/cirrus-60.html

Thats what i use for my chamber, it runs on 110 with a 24v fan. they also have larger units available.

I got a Optocoupler Relay that has the has a separate power and signal input. hopefully it triggers properly.

@bearer
well thats gonna be an issue lol. So it only has approx 2 ma of current?