Posts made by doublec4

@markz said in Homemade Blv Cube:

The three purple printed parts now have standard 8mm leadscrew bearings inside. I bought std flange bearings and used just the bearings - which I stuck in the purple caps so they wouldn't be as constrained as the steel flanges. The purple caps shown here were temporary while waiting for the bearings.

They just stop the top from bouncing around when the leadscrews turn. There was enough of an angle in one leadscrew connection that at the lowest Z the top of the screw would bounce pretty badly and shake the printer when rotating quickly. The bearings calmed it down substantially.

I had similar alignment issues with my Z rods on a different machine (old Rigidbot printer). If it is of any value to you, here was my solution that nearly eliminated my z wobble:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3821853

Rather than constrain the top of the Z rod, I think it is important to allow it to move freely. By constraining the top I believe you are introducing more deflection to the middle of the rod where you bed is connected. First and foremost you need to make sure your z rods are as straight as they can be, and beyond that, I would try and put some adjustability into the z stepper mount such that you can find the "sweet spot" where the mis alignment is minimized. In that link I posted I had typed out a sequence whereby I ran the bed up and down with the z mounting screws loose and then tightening them to ensure the best alignment I could possibly get.

Why do you constrain the top of your z rods with those purple 3 printed parts? Doesn't that contribute to more z-wobble?

@T3P3Tony

You're welcome. This forum was very helpful in getting a few of the details sorted out with the controller... as I dive into deeper I'm sure I will have more questions!

https://youtu.be/kwhxN6nFGR4

I converted a Dremel 3D20 printer (similar to Makerbot Replicator, Wanhao Duplicator, Flashforge Inventor) to Duet 2 Wifi control, Panel Due 5" touch screen, kinematic mount bed levelling system, custom spool holder, all metal hot end, and a hot swap PCB hot end.

The original printer was getting hung up around the same layer and exhibiting some other strange behaviors. Some of the hot end wiring was also shorting out. It was destined for scrap but I found that the mechanical parts of the printer were overall pretty solid and it was a decent printer despite being old (2014?). I figured the control system was the first thing that needed to go and it sort of snow balled from there...

I made the design files available for people with similar printers:

Duet Wifi Mount, Due Panel 5" Mount, End Stop Modifiers, Power Supply Adapters:
► https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637810

Kinematic Mount Bed Levelling System:
► https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637799

Three point bed levelling system using kinematic mount principles.
I designed this for use with a Dremel 3D20 printer but should also work on flashforge inventor or Wanhao / Makerbot variants of the same printer, possibly with some modifications.

PVC Spool Holder:
► https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637764Simple

PVC spool holder to adapt 3/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe to hold filament above your printer for the most direct and restriction free feed.

The feet can be screwed to your work table, printer enclosure, shelf, etc and two PVC pipe will be fitted upright. The elbows hold a horizontal piece of PVC in place. It can be easily lifted for quick removal of filament.

The bearing and collars adapt the PVC OD to the eSUN filament ID of the spool. The collars keep the spool centered on the PVC pipe. They are intended to be a light friction fit over the PVC pipe to stay in place. Screws can be added if more friction is desired to clamp the collars tightly around the pipe.

Hot End Parts and Schematic:
► https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637780

The hot swap PCB accommodates 2 part cooling fans, 1 extruder fan, 1 aux connection, thermistor, heater cartridge (24V only, 40W max), and the extruded motor connections.

RJ45 jacks are required to accept the network cables (should be cat5e with 24AWG stranded wire, unshielded twisted pair). Any 2.54mm (0.1") connectors should fit the other connection locations. (I used JST connectors for my printer).

350W 24V Power Supply:
► https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/mean-well-12v-24v-power-supply?variant=10053946671140

Heater Block:
► https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/mk10-heater-block

MicroSwiss Hot End:
► https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/all-metal-mk10-hot-end-0-4-mm-b-upgrade-b-by-micro-swiss

E3D Thermistor:
► https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/e3d-thermistor-cartridge

24V 40W Heater Cartridge:
► https://www.digitmakers.ca/products/genuine-e3d-heater-cartridge-12-24-volts?variant=9205741191204

RJ45 Jack for PCB:
► https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/amphenol-icc-fci/54602-908LF/1001360

Been following on instagram for a while now. Once this thing gets released I'm going to convince my work place to get one. We currently do not have a printer for ABS and this looks like it puts out great prints.

@Phaedrux said in Blobs/dips where print head makes travel move:

@doublec4 said in Blobs/dips where print head makes travel move:

but I feel like my settings for my extruder accel/jerk are perhaps limiting how fast it can respond and pull back the filament before it oozes? Does that make sense?
Here are those values:
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

Yes that makes a lot of sense. Your Z axis is also really slow which can add to blobbing on layer changes.

Try these values

M201 Z200 E3000
M203 Z600 E6000
M566 Z60 E3000

Increased the values and it appeared to help slightly but not much. When originally calibrating my E-steps I dialed them way back and it helped the quality of my cube print. On the benchy I still get the feeling that I am over extruding because of all of the blobs. I have a Benchy on right now, and mid print I just took the extrusion factor down to 90% and there is a very clear and astonishing improvement in print quality.

I'm going to take my E-steps down 90% in the config and try again... I think this is the biggest culprit.

@Phaedrux Filament path is very much not restricted.

I lowered my print temps another 5 degrees and there is some improvement. I have another Benchy with a few mins left on the print, I will post that shortly.

I think a lot of my problems are still fine tuning with the combination of temperature and over extrusion on changes in direction. As I mentioned before my retraction is 2mm but I feel like my settings for my extruder accel/jerk are perhaps limiting how fast it can respond and pull back the filament before it oozes? Does that make sense?

Here are those values:

M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E120.00      ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00  ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000.00 Y1000.00 Z20.00 E250.00      ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

Although my cubes are looking better... my Benchy consistently doesn't look like it is improving much... anyone with any ideas?

@Veti

Before trying pressure advance, I upped my acceleration values... XY was previously at 500m/s^2 ... I found some info online that the flash forge variant of this printer is normally at 1000m/s^2 so I gave that a shot. Cube looks even nicer now, thanks! Next I'll try the pressure advance to see if it will help with the overall edges a bit.

Have not tried that yet, will give that a go! I was also thinking about retraction settings? I'm already at 2mm (direct drive) but didn't want to go more than that and risk clogging up the extruder.

Hi all,

I am in the process of tuning my new set up. I've been using the calibration cube 20x20x20 as a start. Recently I set up my xyz steps and e steps and my cube comes out dimensionally accurate and most of the cube looks decent.

However, when looking closer at the print and comparing it to my PE Slic3r preview, I notice some things. Namely, there are noticeable dips/small blobs / imperfections that coincide exactly where the slicer is showing travel moves that appear to quickly change direction.

I have attached a few photos for reference. In the background you can see the slicer output. I toggled the external perimeters off so that you can more clearly see the blue lines that indicate "travel" moves. On the print you can see those locations have these little dips and blobs.

What should I be looking at to reduce this effect and have a crisper print in these areas?

Thank you!

Cube just came off the printer and dimensionally it is great now. Within +/- 0.05mm in all dimensions.

Layers look clean, some minor ringing/ghosting on the letters but otherwise I'm satisfied for now. The edges of the cube could be a little crisper so I will look into pressure advance

I will print and weigh some models tomorrow. I'm happy with the result but I'm still a little baffled as to why I would have to reduce my E steps so much ... seems like a major disconnect between what the slicer thinks I need for mm vs what I actually need when printing.

@Veti I will give the weight a try tomorrow too!

@Veti Also regarding the thermistor, it is an E3D cartridge style semitec 104GT

Changed to the following values based on 18T pulley and then calculated steps based on dimensions I've been getting from the calibration cube (0.7mm oversized in XY). See below config.

I also adjusted my Z steps and I noticed slight over extrusion/blobbing in the first several layers. I toyed with the extrusion % while the print was running in the DUET interface. Brought it down to 90% and the print was coming out pretty clean on subsequent layers. Cancelled that print, brought my E steps down to 140 as you can see below and I'm going to try another cube now...

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 2.03)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.4 on Sat Oct 17 2020 22:58:03 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)

; General preferences
G90                                      ; send absolute coordinates...
M83                                      ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Dremel"                       ; set printer name

; Network
M551 P""                         ; set password
M552 S1                                  ; enable network
M586 P0 S1                               ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                               ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0                               ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1                               ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1                               ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1                               ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1                               ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3                         ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                  ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X86 Y86 Z386.5 E140.00	    	 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E120.00      ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00  ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00      ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1000 I30             ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                  ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                         ; set axis minima
M208 X290 Y155 Z125 S0                   ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z1 S0                         ; set active low and disabled endstops

; Z-Probe
M558 P0 H5 F175 T6000                    ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
M557 X15:215 Y15:175 S20                 ; define mesh grid

; Heaters
M140 H-1                                 ; disable heated bed
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280                             ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1                   ; set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45                ; set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0                         ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                          ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                             ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not defined

; Miscellaneous
M575 P1 S1 B57600                        ; enable support for PanelDue

M501

belt pitch is 2mm and number of teeth on pulleys appears to be 18. It's a little tough to count them as they are partially obstructed and the enclosure isn't all that large, but I am pretty confident that is the correct count.

Config below. The problem I have with my components is that I can't seem to find reliable info on them. The Dremel 3D20 (although it appears to be based off of flash forge / wanhao etc) might have some different parts? It had its own firmware and slicer and everything was on lock down out of the box. I guess I could count pulley teeth etc if that is what needs to be done.

; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 2.03)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.4 on Sat Oct 17 2020 22:58:03 GMT-0400 (Eastern Daylight Time)

; General preferences
G90                                      ; send absolute coordinates...
M83                                      ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Dremel"                       ; set printer name

; Network
M551 P""                         ; set password
M552 S1                                  ; enable network
M586 P0 S1                               ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                               ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0                               ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1                               ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1                               ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1                               ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1                               ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2 E3                         ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                  ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X89 Y89 Z400 E150.00	    	 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E120.00      ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00  ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00      ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1000 I30             ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                  ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                         ; set axis minima
M208 X290 Y155 Z125 S0                   ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z1 S0                         ; set active low and disabled endstops

; Z-Probe
M558 P0 H5 F175 T6000                    ; disable Z probe but set dive height, probe speed and travel speed
M557 X15:215 Y15:175 S20                 ; define mesh grid

; Heaters
M140 H-1                                 ; disable heated bed
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.060000e-8 R4700 ; set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280                             ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1                   ; set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45                ; set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 F0                         ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                          ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                             ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not defined

; Miscellaneous
M575 P1 S1 B57600                        ; enable support for PanelDue

M501

I recently set up an old Dremel 3D20 printer (similar to FlashForge Dreamer, Wanhao Duplicator 4S) with Duet 2 Wifi. So far everything appears to be functioning normally and I'm melting plastic.

Printer info:
nozzle: 0.4mm
filament: 1.75
Cartesian printer
Slicer: Prusa Edition Slic3r
Layer resolution for testing: 0.3mm

Before calibrating the extruder, I made sure the bed was levelled and I had calibrated my x,y,z steps using a calipers and measuring from known points on the printer to the print head. This seemed to have gone well... according to my calipers the requested movements vs the actual movements look fantastic.

I'm at the stage where I am tuning the extruder and have run into some issues and I'm a little at odds at what to do. First, I used the basic "extrude 100mm" and measure method to adjust the E steps. Adjusted them in the config file and went to print a 20x20x20 xyz calibration cube with very basic slicer settings, no pressure advance or any trickery.

Within a few layers I could tell it was over extruding. The nozzle was beginning to bury itself in plastic so I stopped the print and went back to adjust the E steps. Not sure why I did this instead of using the extrusion multiplier but regardless, I dialed it back and printed a few more cubes until I found a value that appeared to produce reasonable results (visually) as a starting point. The walls appear to be fairly consistent - no gaps, and the corners only bulge slightly. Top and bottom layers are filled in, no gaps between inner layers and perimeters.

When measuring my cubes, both x,y read about 20.7 x 20.7 and my z consistently reads 21mm.

So my question becomes, where do I go from here?

Ignoring the XY for a moment, if mechanically my printer (according to my calipers) moves accurately, where does the extra 1mm height come from on my cube? Why such a disconnect between my E steps and how much filament is being pulled through the extruder? If I change my Z steps to try and reduce the height but leave my E steps then I would imagine it will results in even more "squished" layers and I will have to dial back my E steps again to compensate - further increasing the error between the measured amount of filament into the extruder vs. the expected output.

Alternatively, if the extra Z height is coming from more over extrusion and I dial back my E steps, then it may have a negative impact on other part features and the perimeters showing gaps?

Are there some other parameters should I be looking at ?

Also, I'm in the process of printing a "Benchy" and as it is getting towards the upper layers of the print, I can see the nozzle slightly burying itself again and pushing down on the model / print bed due to the interference... if I reduce the E - steps or decrease extrusion multiplier, how much is "normal" and at what percentage is there something else potentially going on?

Thanks!

Digging a little deeper in the guides...

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40#s161

It says ideally without filament. Seems a little counter intuitive to me as I thought the filament acts like a heat sink but I guess not?

As the title would suggest... should the PID autotune be done with or without plastic in the hot end? I seem to be leaning towards yes as I'm sure it will have an effect on the system response... what do you guys do?