@dc42 Unfortunately I had to extend and run this cable through my system that took a few hours to do, and I did not connect the unused wires along with both ends needed flipped. I was hopping to take the ends apart and reverse, but I broke to many parts. Will have to order some ends, but the Accelerometer was found and I ran my first test late last night. So good news no fried parts! Thanks for your help
Posts made by gallaghersart
-
RE: Mini+ Accelerometer is not found, only getting 2.5v verse 3.3v
-
RE: Mini+ Accelerometer is not found, only getting 2.5v verse 3.3v
@dc42 Both ends are like this, I double checked my workspace just to make sure did not get switched cables. I do have some stored for pc in a tub that has been unused, did not get into during this.
-
RE: Mini+ Accelerometer is not found, only getting 2.5v verse 3.3v
Viewing the image on the sales page for the Accelerometer the cable is installed correctly. But as shipped it is not possible to attach the cable to the Accelerometer board as shown with the cable supplied.
-
RE: Mini+ Accelerometer is not found, only getting 2.5v verse 3.3v
@dc42 Weill I guess I should not trust the cable that came with my Accelerometer, it has a clip to force the direction on the Accelerometer board. Red pin does not line up. the cable is flipped. See image of cable installed on Accelerometer board. Then I placed cable again trusting the pin outs of the cable as per the pictures in the documentation.
The mini board does not have a clip to force cable direction. I installed as I saw the red line of the cables to match pictures in documents.
If this is the case and I got wrong cable and it fired my port I’ll find out and hope I can find a work around. I’m sending an email to my supplier just in case they are wrong cables.!
-
Mini+ Accelerometer is not found, only getting 2.5v verse 3.3v
Trying to install the new Accelerometer from Duet. But keep getting “No Accelerometer found!”
Checked cabling and all good, pins ohm out. But the daughter board’s 3.3v pin is only getting 2.5v, and no leds are lit on Accelerometer is there are any.
I checked some other 3.3v pins and found them to bounce bwteen 3.1 – 3.2v. None were 2.5v.
Too tired to run new power tonight from other 3.3v pins, will try tomorrow, unless anyone has an idea why only 2.5v and if this would keep the Accelerometer from working.
Thanks!
`mike -
1LC v1.0 120R Resistors 1/2w or 1/4w or 1w?
Have old 1LC ver 1.0 going to use it for a 4th extruder on my 4 into 1 mixer Bowden (total 8 motors on mini 5). I guess I need a 5amp fuse and add a 120r Resistor, but I’m not into to these things. I have found ones that say 120R and looks like picture but I have too choose between 1/2w or 1/4w or 1w? Any idea? Documents only show 120R.
Thanks!
`mike -
Convert 6HC 1.0x to 1.02 for 48v usage
Could I replace some components on my original 6HC so I could use 48v like the 1.02 version?
Thanks!
`mike -
RE: Died mid print, bad Power Entry Receptacle, should I be worried?
@gallaghersart added each part back and all is good, the Entry Connector Receptacle blew but not the fuse within the Entry Connector Receptacle, kinda strange but had a spare part on hand so all good
-
Died mid print, bad Power Entry Receptacle, should I be worried?
During a long print, my duet mini 5 + system just went dark, like we had a power outage, my UPS kicked in at the same time maybe a spike or dip (3d printer not on UPS or power surges), but no other items flickered or went out. But the printer never came back on. Using a multimeter found my Entry Connector Receptacle (link below) was no longer working, but the fuse within Entry Connector Receptacle is fine. Verified correct working tone out on a spare. The bad one only gave 2 out of 3 tine backs.
Should I be worried something else is bad or shorted before I replace it and turn it back on? Going to do some tone-outs and have everything disconnected. Then once the bad part is replaced I will add back each powered part one by one.
I suspect and hope this little extra money I spent on a smart Entry Connector Receptacle saved the rest of my printer electronics and power supply
Thanks!
`mike -
RE: Turn off Touch for PanelDue 7I
@gallaghersart said in Turn off Touch for PanelDue 7I:
XPT2046
Looks like chip is also used in Raspberry touch screens. I'm going to search for a solution there also. I'll post here if I find some thing.
thanks !
`mike -
RE: Turn off Touch for PanelDue 7I
@zapta getting micro pic now, just a few second
-
Turn off Touch for PanelDue 7I
I have my PanelDue 7I in a hand held case that I can move around or mount next to printer. However I have twice touched cancel by accident while picking up or moving panel while 3D print jobs were running.
I would love to have a switch on my case for the PanelDue to turn off and on the touch ability.
Is this possible?
Be nice if a single wire or trace could be broken to insert a switch. And it would have to be able to be switched on and off while powered on and running. Hot swap touch ability.
Right know once PanelDue has been sitting I have to press it once to get it on then pres what I wanted. Could there be a swipe to open like on phones. And a screen lock button?
Thanks!
Mike -
RE: NEW Duet3D documentation site - now official!
@t3p3tony
There are other ways of doing this, would be glad to message someone / help.But as long as the old docs are online search engines will serve up that one. Once OLD system is off line it could still take a week or so to get search engines on new site with out helping them.
Using 301 redirects is best as it keeps your search status and proof of long lasting good website.
Could add meta to each html page
<meta name="robots" content=”none”> and? noimageindex, nosnippet, nofollow, etc.Can also do same as .htaccess if using PHP and other ways.
Less friendly can do html redirect but not good to fix Search Engines.
If you have Goolge/bing/etc webmaster tools and all pages have <meta name="robots" content=”none(or more)”> on old site and <meta name="robots" content=”all”> on new site they may have tools to directly find your new links and remove old.
At the bare minimum have all pages on old sites <meta name="robots" content="index, follow" /> CHANGED to <meta name="robots" content="none, nofollow, nosnippet" />.
Also my example of .htaccess turned into a link. that files does not work as link. it is in root folder of your public web folder. ftp and other programs need to allow to see hidden files. Even if host says you have no access to .htaccess you might still be able to edit. Or create new if does not exist.
Would be glad to help.
`mike -
RE: NEW Duet3D documentation site - now official!
Love It.
I do not know if this is planned but a simple / complex .htaccess on original site will auto send people to correct pages on new site and allow search engines to quickly update the links.
I think like on
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/.htaccess<IfModule mod_rewrite.c> RewriteEngine On RewriteRule ^Wiki/M303/ https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m303-run-heater-tuning [L,R=301] RewriteRule ^c/Individual_Gcodes/ hhttps://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes [L,R=301] </IfModule>
-
PID Tuning With Filament Flowing (heater feedforward M309)
Was wondering if there was a way to also have a constant flow of filament while PID tuning was taking place?
Just was thinking that the filament would be cooling the hot end during the test and this might help Speed/Max flow 3D prints.
Thanks!
`mike*** FYI, By Posting this and other Ideas on this website, my personal websites and others I hereby say this is open source and forgo any patent rights so all can use. Acknowledgment would be nice, but not required.
-
RE: How to adress Neopixel LEDs individually?
I was just thinking of this today, then went to search and found this! Sorry to hijack, different uses but same requirement.
I wanted to used the LEDS as a status lights that I could just attach to front of printers to see how all printers are doing at that moment.
But mounted in a fixed adapter so each color is in its own location. Like those CNC Signal Light towers. But just a strip of a few LEDs.
What I was thinking,,
RED = Error
ALL off = power short/other major alarm
RED Blinking = out of filament
Solid GREEN = Done
GREEN slow blink = printing , GREEN faster blinking near finish OR
Groups of green = printing and how much done (1 green led just started, 5 out of 6 all most done)
Same Green Light But blue for start /warm up times. %50 blue once bed is heated, then remainder light up blue until hotend is at temp then turns to green for printing.
Orange/ blue network connectivity
ALL white blink = find printer location
Yellow= on, no job
Custom Color for groups of printers doing same jobIF not can I Have 3 separate Neopixel LEDs strips, and just control those 3 separately from each other rather than just having a single strip?
`mike
-
RE: How decimal places after . for firmware config?
@gallaghersart
Thanks For your reply's guys, I have my units in chambers and do not print till all parts and frame are at 40-50deg C. Thermal distortion is measurable from cold to hot. even though printer will "print" at all temps in a chamber. I found the Z axis has the most Thermal distortion.I'm about to share my designs of a series of printers soon (Bricked3D), all chambered except 2. with a larger 525x525 bed that I need to be perfect. I have found that a third digit after the (.0) ie 0.234 has a measurably difference from 0.23. on my 300mm bed.
Just posted my take on the Skew test https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/26915/skew-test-and-adjustment-with-dial-gauges and I have all the pictures and source files for free and no requirements to download on my personal website https://gallaghersart.com/page/miscellaneous_3d_prints_and_source_files
thanks!
`mike -
Skew Test and Adjustment with Dial Gauges
This is my take on a skew test and adjustment (M556). 1st version works with a 152mm caliper, 2nd version will be for a larger 300mm caliper. (right now its just the X and Y, still need to print and test the Z options, coming soon).
I’m posting my source files and FreeCAD files so you can modify to fit your needs for free and no requirements to download on my personal website https://gallaghersart.com/page/miscellaneous_3d_prints_and_source_files
Enjoy,
`mike
-
RE: How decimal places after . for firmware config?
@dc42 did some googling on this, out of my math scope. I have some 7 digits will these work?
For my steps I have E set to 142.3188 (7 digits and a .)
and want to make my M556 be 0.1172 (5 digits plus .) (this is my most wanted)
then I have Z steps at 4814.125 (7 digits plus .)Do these work? or they too long?
or could they be E 142.318854 (some before . then 6 after)?FYI, I'm about to share a setup that use dial gauges to measure M556, I'm finding even good belts stretch within a weekly basis. Once my M556 is (+-)0.2+ I then re-tighten the belts and rerun my calibration for M556.
Thanks Again!
`mike